May 30, 2023
On Friday, May 26, we left Tofino, drove east across the island on the scenic Pacific Rim highway again, around the southern tip of the island and back up the west coast to French Beach Park. Again, not my original plan but after one scenic drive we decided not to take another longer scenic drive back across the island. There really aren’t many roads that go across the island because of the mountainous terrain. Do we get extra points for circumnavigating the island perimeter?
It was about a six hour drive but I did want to see Jordan River and Port Renfrew area which face the Juan De Fuca straits. After getting set up in our site we walked down the hill to the beach, which reminded me very much of San Juan Island beaches I visited as a child. It is interesting how smells, sights, or sounds can be so strongly linked to our memories.
There is a steep hill behind the wooden fence at the back of our campsite, and a recurring theme of a large rock in the middle of the site. The placement of the rock seems random so I’m not sure if it’s there to protect the picnic table or some other structure, prevent driving off the RV area, or simply as a tripping hazard.
This is such a cute way to light up the outhouse! Just a string of battery operated LED lights stuck into the bottom of small red solo cups and strung up from opposite walls. Turn them on in the evening and off in the morning to save the batteries.
The host was quick to tell us that the campground had almost ripe salmon berries everywhere and recent bear visits, though none occurred during our visit.
The next day we drove up to Port Renfrew to hike the Botanical Beach loop trail. Just before we arrived at the trailhead parking lot we saw our first bear of the trip! The large black bear was in full view on the road but reluctantly moved into the tall roadside brush. (That look clearly says “Really?”)
The ranger at the trailhead was not surprised and chuckled that they were as plentiful as robins in spring. In fact, there was one down on part of the beach hike and we should give it space to do what bears do on the beach. That particular black bear had moved along by the time we reached the beach so I cannot report on what exactly it is bears do on the beach. We did enjoy our hike there along the coastal forest with low tide beach exploration.
On Sunday we had breakfast at the very popular Shirley Delicious just around the corner from our campground. The hike to Sheringham Point lighthouse started a short drive away. Score–food and fun without much driving for Larry!
Monday was our last day on Vancouver Island and we used it to get ready to cross on the ferry from Duke Point terminal in Nanaimo to the Tsawwassen ferry terminal in Vancouver. Translation-drive back to Nanaimo, fuel up RAM, do laundry and other chores. Tuesday, May 30, we boarded the ferry and waved goodbye to Vancouver Island.
Some of the adventure so far has been unexpected, but we are so glad we began our trek to Alaska by exploring this part of beautiful British Columbia!
In Vancouver we made a short grocery stop and then had lunch at the Lansdowne Centre Mall in Richmond. A friendly patron made a menu suggestion that was delicious.
Eating out gives Larry a break from cooking, though he’s doing a great job! My right arm comes out of the sling tomorrow but I’m only supposed to do range of motion exercises for the next couple of weeks and not actually use it. I will say that climbing in and out of the cab-over bed of the truck camper without using arms has been a good core work out 😁
As we drove out of Vancouver up the Sea to Sky Highway we are excited to start this next section of our trip!
May 29 was Memorial Day in the United States. During the first World War, a Canadian military surgeon wrote the poem recognized worldwide as a tribute to those who gave their lives in defense of their country. This is why the American Legion chose the poppy pins to support the future of veterans, active-duty military personnel and their families with medical and financial needs.
In Flanders Fields
In Flanders fields the poppies blow
Between the crosses, row on row,
That mark our place; and in the sky
The larks, still bravely singing, fly
Scarce heard amid the guns below.
We are the Dead. Short days ago
We lived, felt dawn, saw sunset glow,
Loved and were loved, and now we lie,
In Flanders fields.
Take up our quarrel with the foe:
To you from failing hands we throw
The torch; be yours to hold it high.
If ye break faith with us who die
We shall not sleep, though poppies grow
In Flanders fields.
– John McCrae