Category: Archives (Page 1 of 4)

February 29, 2024

Despite February being rainy and cold, we persevered with our work list because the end of the month promised to be a fun adventure!

Larry continued his volunteering on the solar and long-range planning committees, which kept him busy in meetings doing research and analyzing data. Right up his alley! 

He discovered a leak in our new cargo trailer that may or may not be due to a poorly caulked exterior seam. He contacted the company, and they sent him more caulk plus screws that were already missing from the vent covers and a spare tire for his inconvenience! He got the area caulked quickly, and no more leaking occurred.  

He changed the fluids in front and rear differentials and transfer cases on the RAM truck and sent the samples to Blackstone Laboratories for analysis. They came back with no concerns, which is always comforting.  Below is normal wear on the magnet of the differential plug, then when clean!

He also changed the air filter and installed a Bluetooth charger on the dash for his iPhone. For security in our travels, he researched and purchased an impact alarm for the truck that also tracked its location and activated an alarm feature that was already present. It gives us some peace of mind as not everywhere we travel will be as remote and wild as Alaska.

The Ute received the bulk of the work, getting projects done as the weather allowed:

• Order new bathroom surround from Hallmark
• Relocate Pepwave w/Paddle antennas to Ute
• Research and purchase T-Mobile data plan
• Sand, prep, and spray rusty area on the rear bumper and HappiJacks
• Order drop stitch convertible kayak floor for kayak
• Review folding stair installation and determine possible modifications and replacement
• Fabricate new brackets for folding stairs so the top step is not partially covered by landing
• Replace small duct tape protection on the driver’s front corner outside
• Tighten loose screws on the roof lift mechanism near the dinette and sink
• Lube and tighten screws on roof lift mechanism (silicone) and jackscrew (lithium) 
• Check the set screws on the roof lift mechanism
• Reglue loose fabric on the lift mechanism cover
• Reduce the size of the outside exhaust trim plate for Truma Varioheat
• Replace exterior shower, refrigerator vents, paint CTV cover

I continued to work on interior window shades for the RAM and Coachman, plus a vinyl cover for the shovel on the Ute. Of course, there was more planning and reservations as those opened up for the summer and knitting.  All those skeins and bobbins being worked at once!

As the end of the month approached, we prepared for our trip to Crested Butte with Zoe and Matt. We drove to Tucson to pick up a 4WD SUV for our trip and packed our winter clothes and the cat (of course) for the 12-hour drive. There was a sandstorm as we drove north into Albuquerque, and it was a new experience to see not only how the visibility disappeared but the size and number of tumbleweeds that blew across the highway. Fortunately, it was a short section of the trip, and we moved from dry brown desert to green woods and snow!

We made it to Crested Butte just before the snowstorm started and had a delicious steak dinner made by Matt as we watched the big flakes and blowing wind settle in. It snowed all the next day, so we decided to wander around the shops of Crested Butte instead of skiing.

Zoe and Matt made a delicious Chicken Parmigiana for dinner that night as the snowing stopped. On the third day, Larry took a skiing lesson while Zoe skied and Matt snowboarded for the better part of the day. Nothing better than fresh powder!! Larry enjoyed his lesson, and the instructors said he was the best in his class (which was a shocker, I know).

I had the house to enjoy a full kitchen and walks with Scully.

We dined at The Breadery in town, which was a real treat as Zoe had had to make reservations months ago! During our last full day, we enjoyed snowshoeing on a trail Zoe and Matt had hiked in the summer before having a Beef Wellington I had made for dinner.

Close enough to the 5 year Nomad-adversary to count!

Seriously good eating!

It was exceptional to have time with family; before we knew it, we drove back to Benson. We both said it was a great feeling to be back on the road and that we had missed seeing new places the last few months. Just one more month, and we will be off on our summer adventure!

Remember this game—how many differences can you spot?  The second picture is “on the road” so the Ute is not as clean 😉

January 31, 2024

Unlike last January’s focused quest to prepare for Alaska, this January, we are spending time at the five-year mark of full-time travel to upgrade and reassess what we have. Who knew five years ago we would still be having so much fun! Speaking of fun, January was Larry’s birthday, so now we’re the same age again 😀. We celebrated the Polar Bear Party again at the SKP park (see January 2023 post about that event) and planned a February trip to Crested Butte with family.

Otherwise, we attended to the to-do project list we created in December. We took a trip to Tucson to rotate the tires at Discount Tire and visit an indoor-conditioned RV storage we had researched for summer 2024 storage of the Jeep and RV. The RV door lock on the Coachman was malfunctioning, but thankfully, Larry could troubleshoot it, talk to the company, and get parts to repair it. Ultimately, the lock needed replacement, but using a digital keypad has been so convenient that we felt we had gotten our money’s worth out of the first unit. A fellow SKP member was selling their extend-a-stay LP set-up, which Larry purchased and installed to make refilling our propane this winter much more accessible. Otherwise, we have to drive off the lot to fill our on-board propane tank, and with our solar panels on the roof tilted, we found the extend-a-stay did just what its name says.

We “dropped” the Ute by raising the four jacks so we could drive the RAM out from underneath. That allowed us to put on the tailgate, and Larry installed a tailgate camera he had purchased to replace the one he had relocated to the back of the Ute. We drove the RAM to the dealership in Sierra Vista to do the recall repair on the tailgate and grid heater relay, which didn’t take long. Larry’s research on the check engine light code revealed that he needed to replace the DEF pipe between the tank and injector. He ordered and installed the piece, though the pipe routing required some blind maneuvering from under the engine to get accomplished 😅.

Of course he dissected the old piece and found that it failed due to a loose wire!

He also purchased an Accutire MS-4021R tire pressure gauge and a tape measure for airbag inflation when we load and unload the Ute onto the RAM.

We had been looking for an enclosed utility trailer to store items in Benson and found Lowe’s had two trailers in Arizona, but only in Phoenix. With the Ute unloaded, we drove the RAM up to Phoenix, purchased one of the trailers, and stopped in Tucson on the way back to get a permanent tag.

Of course, Larry washed it and applied Griot’s Ceramic 3-In-1 Wax so it shone. The lock brackets needed adjusting to accommodate the locks we bought at Harbor Freight, which are more challenging to cut off.

The Ute got a great deal of attention from Larry as he worked on the following items:

• Design propane fittings for Little Red Campfire and Coleman grill to use the same hose 
• Reinstall the Truma water heater with a shorter base, new pex water connections, outside trim and caulk, design and install new display and sensor.  The display is on the far right on the wall.  

• Install water seal for rear storage cabinets and ventilated mat for air circulation
• Test swapping of new style ceiling lights from Hallmark
• Design and install Intellitec water pump relay and add lighted switches to bath and outside shower.  This is genius as it allows you to turn on and off the water pump from multiple locations!
• Install new handheld shower head with shut off 
• Replace the white rear door window frame with a black one and seal 
• Replace red Rotopax gas can with white Rotopax water container 
• Research step for access to the roof at the bike holder location
• Convert the rear closet from hanging storage to shelved storage and add light and carpet
• Caulk seam at the bottom of cab over area
• Research rear storage container attachments and level 
• Remove and install new caulk around bins and rear bumper 
• Develop a method to simplify the relocation of Pepwave between Ute and Coachman

I worked on patterning and making rear and front interior window covers for the RAM, interior window covers for the over-cab long window, and the two interior kitchen windows for the Coachman. I found a baby blanket pattern I liked for our grandson (due in May), modified the design, and knitted. 

Pumpernickel was due for senior bloodwork, and I found a house-call veterinarian to help with that. Larry was gone for that day in Washington, DC, finishing a project he’s been working on for over two years—more about that in another post! He made time to visit his parents gravesite in Arlington National Cemetery and it was stunning in the snow.

It turns out that Pumpernickel has a thyroid disorder that is common in elderly cats. Thankfully, he is accommodating about taking pills, so that is the treatment route we are on for now.  

I know we would rather travel and have adventures, but it does feel good to attend to tasks that have been waiting for a time just like this.

`

“Less talking more doing”    Duca – Odd Life Crafting

December 31, 2023

We always get Christmas decorations out of the “attic” (the storage pod on the RV roof) and get the RV looking festive in early December so we get to enjoy it all season. Larry designed Christmas cards to send, and choosing our favorite photos from the Alaska trip wasn’t easy! I made a pattern for the San Diego Padres logo and knitted it into several hats for our older daughter and her boyfriend, who are genuine team fans.

It would surprise no one who knows us that one of our priorities was to set up a spreadsheet of what we wanted to accomplish, sorted by month, week, difficulty, and time involved and broken down into stages if needed (i.e., order supplies for a project before doing the project). That was primarily Larry’s expertise, which paid off over the next few months. 

Here is what we accomplished by the end of December:

Jeep

• Inspect Demco brake actuator cable in Jeep for wear
• Research and purchase car cover

• Repair U joint squeak with a local repair shop

Coachman

• Organize tools area and tool bags in Coachman storage bins
• Develop a list of items to move from Coachman to Ute when traveling
• Develop a list of what we took vs what we used to reduce unnecessary items
• Fabricate exterior cab side window and windshield covers

Ute

• Review solar, battery, inverter, and alternator charging installation
• Install Smart plug 30 amp inlet and cord connector
• Reinstall the Truma Aquago water heater and trim out for a smaller water heater.    

Before

After, with finesse!

• Reinstall the Truma Varioheat furnace
• Repair window handle screw
• Replace non-skid on bumper steps
• Install new doormat on landing and snaps
• Modify refrigerator hinge attachment to align door from left to right properly
• Deep clean interior
• Check the trim screw around the metal trim part between the fiberglass and fabric sides
• Install a smoke detector and test the escape window
• Trim pilled areas on the ceiling
• Deep clean cassette and storage compartment
• Install thick clear tape on the bottom edges of the cassette to reduce wear and scratches
• Research new additives for cassette, recalculate amount, and develop storage
• Deep clean interior and exterior vinyl with IMAR Stamoid cleaner and conditioners
• Remove RockyMounts bike racks and install new shorter bolts and caulk 
• Clean auto vent for cassette toilet and troubleshoot full indicator light 
• Order deck for double kayak
• Order and install IRVWPC electronic pump controller
• List and sell the Atwood water heater and furnace 
• Design modifications to the existing storage cover and sew for a custom fit Work on the cover was challenging due to the sheer size and weight of thefabric! Included solar panel covers at front for protection, and I also made two Jack covers from extra fabric.  Sadly, no photos for this literally enormous project!
• Make shovel cover
• Fabricate new interior window shades for side and kitchen windows
• Reattach kitchen and side window metal strips for new window covers

RAM Truck

• Add four Rid-a-Rat rodent deterrent lights (two underhood and two at the rear of the truck)
• Develop airbag and tire pressure inflation chart with measurement to the edge of fender wells
• Change chassis and CAT fuel filters and order replacements
• Purchase Ram truck cover and California Duster
• Purchase and install accordion shade for interior windshield
• Prototype secure back seat storage for e-bikes and kayaks.  This project went very well, thanks to Larry’s planning and forethought!

At the park

• We both volunteered for the monthly Ice Cream Social
• Larry volunteered for the Solar Committee
• Sierra Vista Wild Wings outing with the park
• Gift exchange with 3 “steals” allowed – Larry got a pocket flashlight he uses all the time
• Bake nut rolls in the park’s commercial kitchen- A traditional recipe from Larry’s mother

   

Christmas Dinner

• NYE party 

 

The last day of 2023 had this number 😀

123123

A family Thanksgiving, whirlwind trip to Florida and winter plans

November 2023

I’d like to say we relaxed once we got to Benson but that would not be true. While we were astonished at how roomy the RV was in comparison to the Ute, we were even more impressed at how much stuff we had in the Ute to move back into the RV for winter. So, it took a bit, plus deep cleaning the interior and exterior of the Ute. Of course there was the exercise room, morning coffee, friends to catch up with and friends to make, the workshop, and lists of what projects we wanted to accomplish during our stay.  It has been almost 5 years on the road, and so a good point in time to pause for planning, reorganizing, upgrading, and dreaming about the future.

Just about the time we fully moved into the RV, it was time to drive to El Paso for Thanksgiving with our younger daughter and her family. They arranged for us to stay at the Fort Bliss FamCamp, which was very convenient.  When we arrived in El Paso, we had our bloodwork done at a Quest lab in preparation for our annual doctor appointment in Florida at the end of November.  We found a pet sitter, Kennedy, who only took care of one pet at a time and Pumpernickel made himself right at home when we went for an introduction before our trip. He ran right up the stairs of her home and planted himself on the bed in front of the aquariums! 

Our daughter cooked several meals for us including a delicious holiday feast.  We enjoyed taking walks, catching up on their plans, and played games during our evenings together.

Granddaughter Noli just turned one and is so much fun to be around 😍  Our time together was far too short before we flew to Florida for a few days. We took Pumpernickel to the Petsitter, and he again ran upstairs to join Kennedy’s husband who had just returned from deployment overseas. While we were away Kennedy sent us several pictures a day and I think he spent all 4 days on one of their laps in bed.

Our trip to Florida was for doctors, dentists, eye exams, checking on our storage, catching up with friends, and taking a walk or two on the beach.

Considering two of the four days were travel days, I think we accomplished a great deal.  Our small storage unit still is very tidy, but we did see a few mice droppings 😮.

Management mentioned that a renter had brought in some field mice with their belongings but the problem was resolved to their knowledge.  We went through the unit and really only found a few spots near the front, and no critters were subsequently ever caught in the traps they put in for us.  We kept thinking—the one time we didn’t bring the cat—who is a great mouser!  We’re good for another year, though we are thinking more seriously about consolidating by finding new medical providers in Arizona and moving our storage there as well.

Returning to Texas, we picked up the cat, who definitely had a more restful week than we did.  I think he misses the aquariums.

We were so thankful to have found Kennedy to look after him!

Oh, and I turned 62 this month which made me eligible for this card—50% off camping in national parks and Army Corp of Engineering Parks

Monument Valley, Navajo National Monument, Hubbell Trading Post and a winding route “home”

October 31, 2023

We reluctantly left the cliff edge of the San Juan River and carefully made our way back to the pavement. The BLM land had cleared out significantly from the eclipse crowd, so it was a leisurely drive into Monument Valley. We were last here in March of 2021 when the Navajo Land was protectively closed, and we could only gaze wistfully at the towering red stone sentinels silhouetted against the blue western sky. Not to say that we didn’t have some fun finding the Forrest Gump spot where Larry posed for some photos and videos.

This time, we spent an entire day on tours of Monument Valley with Will Cowboy of Navajo Spirit Tours.

He did an excellent job telling us about their culture, customs, and beliefs while we went to iconic sites and tour-only places.

We went to a Hogan sweat lodge and heard a woman’s narrative of Navajo life.

There is much to learn and see; this is just an introduction! The valley is beautiful with an inviting vibe—Larry likes it. After a quick lunch, we took the Mystery Valley tour with Will Cowboy. He took us to Square House Ruins, Skull Arch, Honeymoon Arch, and the Pancakes, allowing us to climb into the arches and touch ancient pottery pieces.

On both tours, Will sang a Navajo traveling song wishing us good things and no obstacles. (Tap on bottom left of video for volume control if needed)

We’d love to return when Larry has a better camera and camp with Navajo Spirit Tours on Hunts Mesa.

We drove about an hour to the Navajo National Monument, arriving just after sunset but still finding an available site in the free campground.

The next day we spent first at the Visitor Center for a movie, then hiking the Sandal trail out to the Betataken Cliff Dwellings overlook, the Aspen Trail down to look at a relic forest of Douglas fir and aspen (in the desert!), and lastly the Canyon View Trail with views of the Canyon.

In cooler seasons, ranger-led tours down to the Cliff Dwellings would be fascinating, and it would be an excellent exercise to hike up and down the Canyon at 7,000 feet!

We continued the next day to Hubbell Trading Post, where we lucked into a ranger-led tour of the Hubbell home. It is remarkable for all the artwork, Navajo rugs, baskets, and Burbank “redhead” ink drawings.

At the trading post, we sampled and fell in love with Arbuckle’s coffee, “the coffee that won the West.”

We boondocked at Pintail Lake Wetland before picking up packages in Show Low,

camping at Fool Hollow State Park, and visiting our friends in St Johns.

Larry and Eddie reviewed the solar installation, put in an exterior electric plug-in on the driver’s side of the Ute, and prepped for a Truma water heater upgrade later this month.

The scenic route west from St. Johns took us across the Salt River, and we camped at the Pinal County Fairgrounds before going to a Walmart in San Tan Valley, where the Truma installer met for Truma water heater and furnace upgrades.

It took all day, and we barely reached our next campground at McDowell Mountain Regional Park before the gate closed at 9 pm. We enjoy the Maricopa County regional parks, so we spent a night here, then at Cave Creek, then to Lake Pleasant as we worked our way across the top of Phoenix towards Surprise. Site 136 in the cul de sac of Desert Tortoise Campground was a prime spot overlooking the lake.

There was quite a drop-off to the lake as water levels are low, but we enjoyed sunsets and a cute rabbit who lived on our site.

We were there just as the weekend ended, so the campground emptied. As we’ve done most of the hikes at this park, we hiked around this part and surprised two coyotes! We’ve seen the burros plenty here, but the coyotes were a first. They were pretty brave, and we saw them scavenging in fire pits at some of the campsites (empty and full).

Later that evening, when walking to the bathrooms after sunset, we almost walked into a colossal skunk! Larry’s headlamp caught his big bushy tail up in the air and rump facing us just in time to avoid getting sprayed. We backed off, and he stomped his feet a few times and walked off, not without spinning around a few times to threaten us with his rear end. Whew—close call!

Finally, we arrived at National Indoor RV, and our hearts skipped a beat when we saw the Coachman and Jeep sitting together outside!

The RV is so big inside compared to the Ute! We were impressed by how neat, clean, and organized we had left everything. Of course, there were chores: checking fluid levels and tires, reassembling the bikes and hitch, Running both vehicles down the road to ensure all was well, and rinsing off the dust. We practiced hitching and unhitching the Jeep and drove the two together without mishap.

October is ending, and November will start with us in Benson again. It has been a fantastic seven months since we were there!

 

We are frequently asked, “Where do we call home?” our standard answer is “Wherever the RV is parked.” This time, it felt like coming home to be back with the RV that started Adventure 2.0 and have the promise of continued adventures with Marvin and the Ute.

Black Canyon of the Gunnison and Ring of Fire Solar Eclipse in Valley of the Gods

October 15

We continued our streak of free camping at a pull-through site in the Medicine Bow National Forest just south of Laramie, Wyoming.

Historic sites like the prison were closed due to reduced shoulder season hours or just the end of summer. It was a lovely, peaceful stop before we began the busyness of Denver, visiting our daughter and taking the Ute for a check-up at Hallmark. Our first stop was at our older daughter’s new place, where Larry helped her assemble an IKEA dresser before we shopped together at Costco. That night, we spent at Cabela’s, where I was unsuccessful in finding a pair of pants like the ones I purchased in Anchorage. On Tuesday, October 3, Larry washed the Ute and RAM before we drove to the Hallmark factory in Fort Lupton. We walked around the showroom for ideas on upgrades and spent the night in their parking lot before our appointment the following day. This plan worked out well, except…there were tremendous numbers of flies from the fields nearby, an occasional plague that periodically happens, and they disappear after a few days. It was days before we got them all out, and even the cat was unimpressed and refused to swat at them. On Wednesday, we spent several hours reviewing questions about our Ute and purchasing some items for upgrades.

We left full of ideas and checked in at Cherry Creek State Park before meeting our daughter and her boyfriend for dinner. What a full day! They suggested an alternative route to our next destination, so we followed their advice and drove the Guanella Pass, where the aspens were lovely, and the leaf peepers were out in force! The drive up the pass to over 10,000 feet was steep and full of switchbacks, but the truck and Larry handled it with no issues.

There was no parking near our suggested Abyss Lake hike, so we drove to camp at Antero Reservoir South Shore Campground near Hartsel, Colorado. It was perfect and peaceful after Denver!

After a stop in Salida, we spent the next night at Elk Creek Campground on the Blue Mesa Reservoir in the Curecanti National Recreation area near Gunnison.

The Neversink trail along the Gunnison River was a pleasant hike in the trees with a few bridge crossings over feeder creeks and sloughs with the cottonwoods changing a lovely yellow-orange.

In the afternoon, we hiked the Pine Creek trail along the Gunnison River, which took over 200 steps down the steep canyon walls to where there used to be a narrow gauge railroad. It reminded us of the narrow canyon and Rio Grande river in the Big Bend National Park.

On Sunday, we drove to the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, taking the 18% grade road to the much less visited East Portal and Dam park area.

After a quick lunch, we drove to High Point at the end of the South Rim Road and hiked the High Point Trail for 360-degree canyon views.

We stayed at the Sunset View lookout until well after sunset, so we got to our reserved campsite at the South Rim Campground in the dark.

Our search for the Dragon’s Tongue, which we later learned happens in April and August, had us at Dragon Point well before sunrise the next day.

We enjoyed a serene private sunrise over the canyon and then visited all the rest of the overlooks at the South Rim – Cedar Point, Painted Wall View, Chasm View, Rock Point, Cross Fissures View, and Pulpit Rock Overlook.

The campground was now first come, first served, so we found a site before hiking to Tomichi Point on the Rim Rock Trail, then the Oak Flat Loop Trail below the rim, then back to the campground on the Uplands trail.

The part below the rim was a much cooler oak forest with beautifully changing leaves.

We drove to Ridgway State Park, near Ouray, Colorado, on Tuesday. We last stayed here in mid-October 2020! We stayed down the hill in Dakota Terraces this time, which we liked better.

We saw three magnificent bull moose on the Million Dollar Highway drive from Silverton to the Old Hundred Gold Mine.

Our tour guide at the mine was outstanding and primarily focused on how they got the ore out.

Afterward, Larry panned for gold for several hours despite bouts of sleet and snow. Unlike Alaska, Colorado is hard rock mining, not placer gold, so it took patience and persistence to find flakes—which he did!!

Our route next took us through the Lizardhead Pass to Cortez, which sits at the edge of high desert western Colorado and the beautiful Rocky Mountains.

We liked the feel of this town very much and were able to find some glasses for the eclipse! We filled with water in Bluff, Utah, before driving to the Valley of the Gods BLM land to boondock for the eclipse. The rangers at the entrance warned us that the area was almost at camper capacity—and it was!

We drove more than halfway around the loop before Larry spied a likely spot near a group of friendly campers who invited us to join them for the eclipse. They were dedicated astrophotographers who routinely traveled internationally to eclipse sites and had some legitimately expensive equipment.

On Saturday, October 14, we saw the eclipse, which was phenomenal. The eclipse glasses worked well, and I had the NASA site up online to follow it live. Larry put his iPhone on a tripod with a lens from one of the eclipse glasses taped over the camera lens. He used a free SolarSnap app to adjust phone settings and get outstanding photos.

It was an incredible event in an extraordinary setting with some beautiful people.

We all said goodbye on Sunday and drove the rest of the Valley of the Gods loop, which was much longer than I expected.

Although we headed towards Goosenecks State Park, there was a boondocking site I wanted Larry to try and get to that wasn’t in the park but sat on the canyon rim overlooking the canyon, the San Juan River, and the west side of Gooseneck State Park. It wasn’t the most accessible drive, but we are in a capable truck camper with an experienced off-road driver…the view is probably the best we’ve had! We spent two days and nights here, all by ourselves.

 

Nature’s Eye Candy, indeed.

 

Boya Lake and Hyder

September 1, 2023

On Saturday, August 26, we were one of the first cars to cross the border back into Canada.  We drove 360 miles from Skagway to Boya Lake, with a lunch stop on the Rancheria River for Larry to try a bit of gold panning. 

At the start of the Cassiar Highway, we had to wait over an hour to follow a pilot car through an area of fires very close to the road. 

We made it to Boya Lake but learned later that the Cassiar was closed overnight.  Our campsite at Boya Lake was one of our best! 

Boya Lake is a beautiful Caribbean blue, and we could park with our big passenger windows facing the lake. 

Even though there were no empty campsites, it was peaceful and quiet, with just the sound of the loons calling. 

We hiked along the lakeshore trail and rented a kayak to explore some of the lakes and islands—you could get lost without a GPS! 

A very protective beaver emerged from a lodge we thought was abandoned and slapped his tail on the water several times to warn us away as he swam around us.  We took the hint and paddled off. 

After two idyllic days, we reluctantly departed on Monday and drove the remainder of the Cassiar to Stewart.  The northern part of the Cassiar is a two-lane, scenic byway without even lines to mark the pavement.  We stopped at Jade City and met the owner, whose show has seven seasons on the Discovery Channel. 

He said winter could come anytime now but would likely be late this year as there was no snow on a nearby mountain that usually marks the two-week warning to winter.  We made it to Rainey Creek Municipal Campground in Stewart and were assigned an excellent site backing up to a creek complete with pink salmon!

The following day was foggy and drizzly, so we toured the museum and visitor center, walked through town, and strolled the boardwalk over the marsh. 

The weather didn’t improve, so we got up early on Wednesday and crossed into Hyder, Alaska (no customs here) to the Fish Creek Wildlife Observation Site.  In late summer, bears feed on pink and chum salmon just below the platforms at the observation station, closely monitored by park rangers armed with bear spray.  A 5-year-old grizzly was chasing salmon, with a preference for the larger chums, and we watched him for almost 2 hours. 

This is us trying to leave from the parking lot while a bear strolled by!

Look at those claws (on an exhibit at the Observation Site, not on a live bear)

Midmorning, we drove up the slick gravel and marl road towards the Salmon Glacier through the thick fog (plus bears) and were rewarded for our perseverance with a clear view of the glacier. 

We spent the day there as others came and went, took pictures, walked to different viewpoints up and down the road, and flew the drone. 

Camping is allowed here, and we considered it, but as the fog rolled back in, we decided to return to the campground for the night.  We stopped again at Fish Creek and watched bears awhile—the male we had watched before was there, and it was a little eery how he would look sideways over his back up at the viewing platform, almost as if he was sizing us up. 

To get to our campground, we had to cross back into Canada, this time with a Border Patrol agent. 

And with that crossing, we left Alaska for the last time on this adventure 😭  Thursday was a driving day, but we started by finding a place to wash the grime off the rig from the drive up to the Salmon Glacier.  We finished the Cassiar Highway, stopping at the Land of Totems and the Gitgawink Battle Site to learn some history and stretch our legs. 

The smoke from the prevalent fires this year in Canada got thicker as we headed toward Prince George.  At Witset RV Park and Campground, where we stayed for the night, we could see the helicopters working to put out the fires in the nearby mountains.

Although no one was fishing during our stay, Witset Canyon is a First Nations fishing spot

Friday was September 1st and the beginning of the Labor Day holiday, so the traffic increased as we drove toward Prince George.  Smithers is a cute alpine-themed town, and we stopped at Bugwood Coffee for a pumpkin spice latte and gluten-free berry muffin. 

In Prince George, we shopped, fueled, washed the rig (again), and boondocked at the WalMart overnight.  Prince George is where we “crossed our wake” on our Alaska trip, closing the Loop we started on the way to Dawson Creek and Mile 0 of the Alcan back in early June.  We have several boating friends who have completed “The Loop” of the Great Lakes, Mississippi River, and Intracoastal Waterway for whom “crossing their wake” is the celebrated end of the great adventure.  We’ve crossed our wake but aren’t finished with this adventure yet!

And about that Loop—we’d need a boat….one we could pull behind the truck….Larry was pretty excited about this setup he saw in the Yukon……

Fifty or so years ago, my paternal grandparents took their sailboat up the inside or outside passage to Alaska every summer well into their eighties.  There was always a spectacular slide show when they visited us and stories of their adventures, including a rogue wave in the Pacific that rolled their 40-foot boat.  So, it can be done when we’re older (maybe minus the rogue wave….)

Whitehorse to Jasper

September 9, 2023

I had not made any camping plans for the Labor Day holiday weekend as we drove east from Whitehorse to Jasper National Parc.  Back in March, I had decided that we would take a relaxed approach to the weekend and find someplace to land as long as we stayed away from the major parks.  Honestly, it worked out better than I had expected!

On Saturday, September 2, we stopped at Purden Lake Provincial Park in the early afternoon as a nice camp spot was available. 

We walked down to the lake and found it full of families splashing in the water, sunbathing, and grilling.  As pleasant as it was, we drove to the Ancient Forest Provincial Park the next day, where we spent several hours hiking the trails entirely on boardwalks.  Unlike the coastal rainforests of Vancouver Island, this inland rainforest is one of a kind. 

We enjoyed the peace and solitude as we were there early, but it did get busy later in the morning, so we continued our drive east to LaSalle Lake Recreation Area.  There was an available campsite across from the lake, and as we were settling in, our neighbors on the lake said they were leaving so we could have their site.  It was a fantastic site, and — free! 

Later in the afternoon, we launched our two-seat inflatable kayak we had purchased for this trip.   We hadn’t even unfolded it until now, and for its maiden voyage, we discovered that our “red” kayak was orange, orange, orange!  Nicknamed the Orange Peel, we also found that we had forgotten the hoses that go with the pump to inflate the kayak.  So, Orange Peel was a little underinflated but still performed well as we enjoyed circumnavigating the small but clear water LaSalle Lake. 

We’ll try to get the hoses, but ordering them in Canada is challenging.

After a peaceful night, our Labor Day Monday drive was increasingly smoky and heavier traffic.  Rearguard Falls is the furthest east the salmon travel to spawn, and though it is too late in the season for them, we did see some whitewater rafters just leaving for a trip downstream.  I waved, and they waved back!  I’m sure they thought we wished we were with them — and they were right! 

That afternoon, we made it to Jasper, our destination for the next few days, where the air quality was “unhealthy” due to all the smoke.  There is no free parking in town, so we didn’t linger at the visitor center after we talked to a ranger who confirmed we had solid plans for our visit and gave us a few other ideas.

 Campground is further out of town and much more forested than the other campgrounds, and on our drive in, we saw a magnificent bull elk just walking along the road! 

The smoke was so thick we could hardly see the outlines of nearby mountains.

The following day, the predicted rain came, so we waited until lunchtime to drive up the narrow, steep, winding road to Mount Edith Cavell.  We walked to Cavell Pond on the Path of Glacier Trail, where we saw the pond and Angel Glacier above.  The rain removed the smoke so you could see much better, though now there was some fog to contend with.

Wednesday, we left early and drove the Icefields Parkway to the Columbia Icefield Centre.  Along the way, we stopped at Athabaska Falls and Sunwapta Falls.  Athabasca Falls was awe-inspiring with its narrow slot canyon and abandoned channel.  The waterfall was short but powerful, and we enjoyed walking to all the viewpoints in solitude. 

We had tickets for the Icefield Adventure at 10. We first got onto a shuttle bus to cross the street to a depot, where we boarded an enormous glacier crawler. 

The crawler took us up and down a steep hill, through a tire wash (deep puddle), and then onto the glacier.  There was a groomed area where all the crawlers parked inside a roped-off “safe” area for visitors to walk on. 

Does the kid in the middle look old enough to drive that monster crawler?

It was such a different experience than the one we had in Wrangell-St.  Elias!!  Walking on the glacier with the mountains in close backdrop was neat.  Larry drank some glacier ice and helped others take photos before we returned to the crawler, then a bus that took us up the Parkway to the Skywalk. 

The SkyWalk lets you walk out on a glass overlooking the valley below.  The drop-off was very steep, so of course, you felt like you would fall through the air to the river below, and it was a hoot to watch everyone’s reactions.

We drove to Maligne Canyon just after dawn the next day and hiked the bridges.  A narrow river carved the canyon with potholes, swirls, and unique beauty. 

We stopped at the large but shallow Medicine Lake that drains into Maligne Canyon.  Driving along the banks, you can see the cracks in the lake bottom where the drainage occurs.  Long ago, they even tried stuffing newspapers into the cracks to stop the drainage! 

We found a good parking spot at Maligne Lake and walked the Moose Lake Trail (no moose) and the Mary Shäefer Trail along the lake. 

At 4:30, we took the cruise out to near Spirit Island.  You can’t walk on Spirit Island, but you can get a good picture, and we had a lovely late afternoon light for that!

On the way home, we stopped in Jasper to do laundry and pick up some groceries, so it was pretty late and very dark when we got back to camp.  On Friday, we hiked the Valley of Five Lakes Trail.  Lake One wasn’t much, but Lakes 2-5 were lovely, clear, and beautiful blue! 

We took photos at the red chairs and enjoyed low numbers of people on the trail until the end, where at the trailhead, someone had just tested their bear spray (why?) and left a lingering acrid residue that burned your eyes and throat.  We had a fire and a rare treat of roasted hot dogs for dinner that evening.

On Saturday, September 9, we said goodbye to Jasper and drove down the Icefields Parkway again to Banff. 

We stopped for a short hike at Waterfowl Lake, where the campground was closed for the season.  Paw prints of a big cat were in the mud along the stream! 

We hiked up to Peyto Lake, which is very popular but still fun, and then Bow Lake, where we walked the lakeshore. 

Bow Lake would be an excellent stop to stay awhile, and we enjoyed a sandwich and cookie from the Lodge Cafe on the remainder of our beautiful drive into Banff.

 

Fun Fact:  When Apple launched the 2014 iPad, an image of Spirit Island was chosen to illustrate its photographic capabilities, and according to our tour guide the island is still one of the most photographed places in the Canadian Rockies!

Banff

September 16, 2023

Yikes!  We drove into Banff, which was like dropping into a crowded theme park.  Granted, it was a Saturday, so we deserved the traffic we got, but transitioning back to civilization is always challenging.  We were glad to be in the truck camper to find a parking spot in town! 

As always, we went to the Park Visitor Centre to chat with a ranger about advice, weather, and general information before catching some groceries and heading back north on the Trans Canada Highway to our campground at Johnston Canyon.  I had picked this campground as a base of operations between activities we had planned in Banff to the south and the Lake Louise area to the north, which worked well for the week we were there.

On Sunday, 9.10, we drove to Lake Louise, and I made a good breakfast before we joined a Parc Canada ranger for a guided hike to Hidden Lake.  It is usually a long hike with a steep, dusty road to the trailhead, but we got a shuttle ride to skip the road walk. 

As we hiked, the ranger stopped periodically to talk about the cutthroat trout and efforts to preserve it. 

The short story is about the cutthroat trout going extinct, so they found the perfect place for it (Hidden Lake), killed all the fish there, and reintroduced the trout.   It was a full day with a stop by the lake for the lunch we brought.

On Monday, we drove east to Golden for the Skybridge. 

This particular adventure was part of a discounted package I purchased through Pursuit Pass Rockies and I’m not sure I would have gone otherwise, but it was enjoyable.  The plan for the day was to first sightsee at YoHo National Park.  We drove up to Takakkaw Falls —a very steep drive with a switchback that vehicles over 24 feet must back up to maneuver.  The Falls had a neat rooster tail, and it was a quick walk out to them. 

On the way to Emerald Lake, we stopped at Natural Bridge, where the water eroded the rock across the river to form a cool bridge. 

Emerald Lake was truly emerald, and we walked around the perimeter. 

After that, a bit of a drive to the Skybridge,  where two pedestrian suspension bridges span the kicking horse river gorge.  It was a lovely day, and we enjoyed ourselves.

On Tuesday, we were at the Lake Louise parking lot before 7 am to get a parking spot in their RV lot.  To get there that early meant we left the campground in the dark, which is not unusual, but as we drove through the parking lot, we were surprised by a giant black bear!  We watched the sunrise over Lake Louise, then hiked the Plain of 6 glaciers trail up to Agnes Lake Teahouse. 

The trail climbed steadily to the Teahouse, and we watched a helicopter making multiple trips. 

We thought it was bringing  food, but on arrival at the Teahouse, we learned they were emptying the pit toilets.  We had hot chocolate and a snack – not the sandwich and soup we had anticipated, as the crew was primarily busy with the helicopter. 

Then, we hiked to the trail’s end, past and on glacial moraines, where you could see six glaciers across the valley and on the mountains.  It was spectacular!! 

We hiked back to the Teahouse and had a piece of chocolate cake (they still weren’t serving lunch). 

Not getting the lunch we’d intended left us a little flat on the hike back, but we met another hiker whose enthusiasm and joy were uplifting.  He shared pictures of his morning hike and plans for his vacation, confirming that one of the best parts of travel is the people we meet!  We shared our amazement at seeing one of the glaciers calve with a huge thunderous roar and our appreciation of all the beauty around us.

Now that’s one way to travel!

This chubby guy clearly gets food rewards for his boldness!

We drove into Banff early on Wednesday to get a picture with the Banff sign.  There was always a line of people for this, and in the afternoon, the light was from behind the sign, so we knew we wanted to do our picture in the morning. 

We walked the trail to Bow Falls and the overlook before going to the Banff Gondola, where we had tickets for 10:10 am. 

The views from the boardwalk and stairs to the top of Sulphur Mountain were clear without the recent smoke!  Northern Lights Alpine Kitchen had a delicious buffet, which we treated ourselves to at a table right by the window. 

We drove to Lake Minnewanka in the afternoon for the 6 pm boat cruise. 

The trip had no stops, but the narrator gave a great demo of how the “Stoney” people used hot rock to boil water and cook food!

  Thursday, we went back to Lake Louise, where we had reserved early morning shuttle tickets to Lake Moraine.  We climbed Rockpile to get the morning light and sunrise photos, then did the Larch Valley hike. 

The larches were not at peak yet but in a lovely grove.  Larch trees are the only evergreen trees to have their needles turn yellow/gold and fall off each year, so this area of Banff is famous for fall foliage (hike early!).

We started hiking the upper and lower Johnston Canyon Falls near our campground on Friday before sunrise.  We got to the upper falls as the light was getting pretty and enjoyed the beauty and solitude, though it was chilly! 

Our next adventure was a four-hour horseback ride to Sulphur Springs Mountain, and we ended up going under the gondola we’d taken the day before and then further on to Spray Creek.  All the horses at the stable are rescued from auction and well cared for.  From his lip tattoo, they knew my Arabian horse had been a Level 4 Dressage Horse, which is hard to fathom how he ended up at auction, but he was pretty popular with all the riders.

Saturday, we just had to go back to Lake Louise for one more gorgeous sunrise before heading to Calgary!

I did not mention that the young man we met on the hike down from the Teahouse walked with an unusual gait, which suggested some orthopedic issue, yet it didn’t stop him from hiking further than we did that day.  His hands started at his elbows and had missing or misshaped fingers, yet he could scroll through the photos on his phone faster than I could.  He will always be an unstoppable ray of sunshine in my memories.  Banff is a beautiful gem of a place, but the real treasure is people like him.

Be unstoppable.

September 20, 2023

Waterton Lakes campgrounds become first come, first served after September 10, and as it was a Saturday, we went with a sure thing and made reservations at Pincher Creek along the way.

Each Canadian Province has a unique look, and Alberta was more prairie and farming for a change of pace from mountains and glaciers!

On Sunday, we drove into Waterton Lakes, and the first thing we hiked was the Bears Hump to get a panoramic overview of the town.

It was pretty windy up there, which was an excellent introduction to how much stronger the wind would blow for the rest of our stay.

The town sits at one end of the deepest lakes of the Rockies so the wind has a long fetch to gather force. After getting a spot in the Townsite campground, we walked over to the visitor Centre, where Ranger Jack of the US National Park Service was out front for a talk about bears and skulls, skins, and other props.

Ranger Jack shared this quote about bears, which seems appropriate as we’ve seen 24 black bears and almost as many grizzlies on this trip. “In part because bears can be so dangerous, they force you to pay attention. They flood your blood with adrenaline and endorphins. They introduce you to terror, awe, amazement, and ecstasy. Bears connect you to the deepest pulses of life. This is their gift: the power to take your life, or to renew it; to re-create who you are, if only for a moment, and perhaps for a lifetime.”

Afterward, we toured the town and ate frozen huckleberry yogurt in a chocolate and coconut-dipped waffle cone.

Very relaxed deer all over town.

We spent the day driving, hiking, and exploring Waterton Lakes National Park on Monday.

We quickly stopped at Cameron Falls before driving the Red Rock Parkway out to Blakiston Falls, where we had to stop and let a doe with her two fawns cross a footbridge ahead of us. We could tell she wanted to cross, but we were in the way, so when we backed up, she ran past us, closely followed by her fawns.

This looks like a fun way to explore Waterton Lakes!

After completing the Red Rock Parkway, we backtracked into town and drove the Akamina Parkway to Cameron Lake, where we ate our picnic lunch. When I made our trip plans, Waterton Lakes was at the end of the trip, so I didn’t give it too much research. It’s a Waterton/Glacier Crown of the Continent, two parks joined together across the United States and Canada border. So, how different could Waterton be from Glacier? As it turns out, it’s very different!

In 2017, a fire swept through Waterton and burned about 90% of the trees you can see from any drive or hike. Additionally, the whitebark pine at higher elevations is dead mainly due to blister rust—you mostly see dead tree trunks and bare limbs everywhere. Some spots have shrubs turning pretty fall colors, but overall, it’s nothing like what I imagined. When we hiked around Cameron Lake, we met some locals who said it was tough to see the park the first time they returned after 2017, but the spring wildflowers are spectacular now due to all the sun they get. They sadly admitted that perhaps their grandchildren will see it in a semblance of its former glory.

On the way back into town, we stopped at the site of Canada’s first oil rig, whose production was short-lived due to the shallow and small oil deposit.

We hiked to Crandall Lakes, where the rocks around this lake were so white they almost looked whitewashed.

We hiked over 10 miles, and the wind was 30 mpg with gusts to 40! Thankfully, the camper only shook a little bit overnight in the wind.

Tuesday was a bit less windy, though still too much for a boat ride to Goat’s Haunt, so we did a peaceful early hike from our campground to Bertha Falls.

It was our last day in Canada, so we drove to the Prince of Wales Hotel, high on a hill where Upper and Lower Waterton Lakes meet. We had a delicious High Tea to celebrate our trip, which seemed fitting as we started Day 1 with High Tea at Butchart Gardens on Vancouver Island!

Recalling our trip and talking about our favorites overall and by location was fun- what a trip we had! We relaxed for the rest of the day and prepared to cross back into the USA.

And here we are, back home!🥹

 

I came across this quote when I was trying to find something about how you don’t get to choose home but that home tugs at your heart and chooses you.  At the end of our Alaska adventure, Drue’s advice seems more appropriate.

“Life should be a daring, loving, laughing adventure — or it is nothing at all. If you don’t start choosing, life and circumstance will choose for you. You can change or stay the same. You can grow or never leave the nest. All of life becomes about our choices. We choose our people, we choose our ways, we choose our thoughts, and we choose how we seize or surrender our days. Every day, every moment, and every thought is about choice. So everyday you must make your choices. Life isn’t ever really about what happens to us, but how we respond to life.”

― Drue Grit