A friend asked for suggestions on a Utah Spring Break, and Larry thought I should share what I wrote.
You are going to have a blast! I’ll give you some specifics from our visits, but first a few general thoughts:
1. Start early. Like, before sunrise to get where you want to go before it is hot and crowded. Pack breakfast stuff to eat on the road. Pack lots of snacks to eat when you get to where you want to go, the saltier and more caloric the better as no one is their best hangry, ask Larry how he knows to pack an extra snack for me 😉. You can go out to lunch in town later while everyone else is hiking and mobbing the scenic views, plus you’ll be cooler inside.
2. Hydrate. Take lots of water, electrolyte mixes, ice tea or whatever reviving beverage you enjoy. If you’ve been to the desert, you remember how it sucks water out of you rapidly and leaves you drained with no energy, grumpy (or worse, hospitalized).
3. Slow down. So, I used to look at the high points of a destination and had to do them. ALL OF THEM. I’ve learned to leave something for another visit and pick a few of the places that are must sees—for me. No matter what you do, someone hearing about your trip will tell you that you “missed” some really cool spot. It is your vacation, enjoy it, do what you want–but maybe not all that you want to do.
For Arches, the place everyone goes is Delicate Arch. It is beautiful, and it really glows at sunset. Lots of people know this so it is extra busy then, but there is plenty of room. If you do sunset make sure to take a wind breaker as it gets cool after the sun goes down and headlamps or a flashlight as the hike back will be in the dark. Whenever you go, take snacks and refreshments and sit there awhile and enjoy it. So many people come, take the pix and leave, but it is fun to watch the light change, birds soar, people get their “gram” and just soak up the fact that you. are. there. If you pack too many snacks (not sure if that’s possible) you can always offer extras to some parent whose child of whatever age is having a meltdown, or your neighbor photographer.
Fiery Furnace is a wonderful maze with great history. Take time to absorb it, stop for a snack somewhere in there and imagine outlaws hiding out, or consider how it was a spiritual place for early peoples. The Old West is called that because it has an old feel to it, if you stop and wait.
Other than that, there is a drive with multiple stops, again best done early for heat, prettiest light and crowds.
When we went with the kids, we did a rappelling adventure which they still talk about.
For Canyonlands, there is an iconic arch, Mesa Arch, that everyone goes to for sunrise pictures. What no one tells you is that there are at least 100 other photographers squeezing into the same small space who all got there in the dark hoping for the same shot. It’s fun if you know what to expect, are dressed for the cool morning, and have a good attitude. The light is still pretty just after sunrise, and the serious photographers all leave.
Me taking a picture of Larry taking a picture
We reserved an overnight pass and took our Jeep on the White Rim drive which can be done in one very full day, or just do part of it. Jeep or ATV rentals are available and the road isn’t too technical, or rental companies can suggest other trips. Moab in general is an off-road paradise.
See how the light gets washed out midday?
In Capitol Reef, make sure you have pies and ice cream if the Gifford Farmhouse is open. No calories, I promise, and there are picnic tables out front, or go back up the street a little bit to a bigger picnic area where the deer usually hang out. There is a drive called Looping the Fold which can take most of the day but is very pretty, has this great switchback, and is informative—if you do it buy the little booklet on it at the visitor center. You can go halfway and turn around at the switchback so you get to go up and down the switchback, which I would suggest if you are going to take Scenic Byway 12 later. Boulder is on the back part of the “loop” on the 12 where you’ll find the small but very informative Anasazi State Park Museum, and usually a taco truck out front whose food was spendy but good. There are a bunch of hikes in Capitol Reef, but Our Favorite Hike of the park was to Cassidy Arch. Go early, enjoy the solitude, and this arch is 50 feet wide so you can stand and jump on it if you want for a nice pix.
Yeah, that’s Larry😍! Isn’t morning light magical?
Escalante and Scenic Byway 12 is a treasure. The drive is gobsmackingly beautiful. Stunning, phenomenal, fantastic…anything, anything but the cliche “amazing.” I challenge you not to use that word the whole trip and come up with others.
From Capitol Reef, take Scenic Byway 12, passing Boulder and the museum, to Lower Calf Creek Falls which is a really cool hike out to a hidden waterfall. Pick up the brochure at the trailhead as there are some spots to see that are numbered on the hike. We started at first light and had the falls to ourselves for 45 minutes—like a cathedral in its beauty and peace that we were whispering as we often do. A wild turkey strolled by us as we ate a picnic (starting to get a food theme here yet?). It is only a two mile hike but on the way out we counted 60 hikers coming in before we just stopped counting. No way they were going to have the same experience. There is a nearby coffee house, Kiva Koffeehouse, that everyone raves about, especially the view (next time….)
My mouth is full of food
If you are not claustrophobic and up for an awesome one-of-a-kind, no one you know will have done this (except us) adventure, Spooky and Peek-a-boo slot canyons are the BEST slot canyons we have ever hiked. You can look videos of them up on YouTube, or watch mine if it loads for you. The hikes are on a side trip gravel road well worth the drive, which any car should be able to do. Go early, again, we had the whole place to ourselves until on the way out, but it could be fun with people, too.
Epic.
Just.
Go.
On the Byway, stop in at the Escalante Heritage Center just before Escalante to watch an inspiring historic film that recreates how the Mormons settled this area. After seeing it we decided next time we’re going to drive down to Hole in the Rock in Glen Canyon National Recreation Area (wanted to do the slot canyons first, and leave something for another trip, right?)
Enjoy your vacation!