Category: Archives (Page 5 of 7)

Seward

July 27, 2023

On our drive into Seward from our comping spot on Upper Trail Lake, we stopped to hike the Exit Glacier terminus. 

The trail was a little more than two miles, and along the way, we passed the spot where the glacier ended the last time we were here in 2010.  Exit Glacier has receded so now the toe is around the corner.

The Herman Leirer Road to the Exit Glacier is known for moose sightings and we were not disappointed.

We stopped in at the Seward Visitor Center to get additional suggestions about the area and mug it up with this guy.

I had made reservations for the Seward Municipal campground the first day reservations opened, and we got a quiet spot on the water near the marina.

The Kenai Fjords National Park Visitor Center was a short walk away where we both picked up Junior Ranger booklets to complete. 

Larry got his Junior Ranger badge the very next day!

Our big adventure for Seward was to kayak the Aialik Glacier.  Aialik is pronounced ignoring the first vowel and pronouncing the next two vowels long.  Our paddle tour involved a 2.5-hour boat ride each way out to the glacier and we both are prone to motion sickness.  On the suggestion of a fellow traveler, we took meclizine first thing in the morning the day before and the day of our tour.  Bottom Line Up Front–this technique worked perfectly so we repeated it later on other water adventures.

We met our tour group at 7 a.m. and got fitted for the gear we would need to paddle before the 24 of us walked over to the marina to our water taxi. 

The weather did start foggy at first, but that added to the ruggedness and mystery of the scenery.

On the way, our captain found a pod of bubble-feeding humpback whales.  This behavior is new for whales in this area who normally feed alone.

At one point the whales even went under our boat.

Some orcas also cruised by.

The folks at the back of the boat must have great pictures!

The water taxi dropped us off at a beach about 2 miles from the glacier and unloaded the boats. 

Bears like this beach as well so we walked up the hill behind us as a group to scare them away.  We didn’t see any bears but it was a fun exercise.

After settling into our kayaks, we paddled several miles until we were in front of the glacier. 

We ate lunch with an awesome view! 

All too soon we were paddling back to the beach and loading up for our ride back. The weather cleared up nicely, and the captain spotted seals and puffins for us.

On top of this 650-foot cliff is Fort McGilvray, an abandoned WW2 US military installation built to protect ice-free Resurrection Bay.  The Fort was never completed once the Aleutian Islands were recaptured since construction was a huge challenge.  It is now part of the Alaska Division of Parks and you can hike to it!  Something to do next time!!

We took a day off to wander around Seward and enjoy all the murals and monuments downtown. 

Now that we know how to avoid being seasick, maybe next time we can go halibut fishing!

During our last visit to Seward, we went to the Sealife Center, rode a helicopter up to a glacier for dogsledding, and climbed Mount Marathon—so we didn’t repeat those this trip!  I had wanted to go back up Mount Marathon but with all the recent rain it reportedly was more treacherous than “normal.”  When I climbed it before, the fastest route down was a snow chute you had to exit before a waterfall into heaven knows where.  Yeah, not very smart. Every July 4 Seward has a grueling 5K race up the mountain so risky that a runner once disappeared never to be found. Only in Alaska!

Early one morning we drove back out to the Exit Glacier and hiked up to the Harding Ice Field. 

This hike was 11-plus miles round trip with a 4000 ft elevation change.  We started in the fog and had the trail to ourselves.

As we climbed, we found ourselves above the fog with spectacular views. 

As Larry was taking photos, I spotted a black bear poking his nose up from the bushes 25 yards uphill. 

We have a rule that you only say “bear” if there is one, so he turned around pretty quickly to get this video. 

The bear decided the trail was getting crowded and left—black bears are almost a daily sighting along this trail.  As always in Alaska, we were wearing our bear spray!

The scenery slowly changed to subalpine then alpine with snow fields to cross.

 

 

There is an Emergency Shelter just before the Icefield where we stopped to make a hot lunch for the end of the trail.

The Harding Icefield covers over 700 square miles and is the source of at least 40 glaciers. 

We were blessed with beautiful weather and stunning views. 

This was hands down the hike with the best views of our Alaska trip!

The hike down always seems longer than the hike up, and we rewarded ourselves with dinner at the Salmon Bake as recommended by some locals. 

Although they advertised warm beer and lousy food—the meal was a delicious way to finish this trip to Seward.

A younger me at the top of Mount Marathon (on the left 😀)

Whittier

July 29, 2023

Spoiler alert — it was Epic!!
From Seward, we retraced our steps back to just before the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center on the Seward Highway and then turned on Portage Glacier Highway towards Whittier. Whittier is accessed by road only through the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel, a 2.5-mile controlled one-lane tunnel with alternating train and vehicle traffic. We knew the tunnel schedule and had plenty of time, so we made an unplanned visit to the Begich Boggs visitor center. In addition to very informative exhibits, we especially enjoyed the award-winning movie. Curtains sweep aside at the end for a stunning panoramic view of Portage Lake. Next time, we plan to take the boat ride across to view Portage Glacier!
We took our turn going through the tunnel to Whittier—it is long, dark, and feels narrow even though a train travels through it.

Whittier is as small as we remembered it, though we did explore out to the end of Shotgun Cove Trail for a view across the Passage Canal.

Our jetski tour company kindly allowed us to stay in their parking lot, and we took the tunnel connecting the more industrial area to town where we wandered the shops and watched the activity at the boat ramp.

Next morning was our Jetski tour down Passage Canal, around Decision Point, and up Blackstone Bay to several tidewater glaciers. It is thirty miles one way over very cold water 🥶. Glacier Jetski was very serious about keeping us warm and safe. Our guides checked our clothing to be sure we had on the clothing layers they had requested before putting us in dry suits, life jackets, neoprene booties, and gloves. Our tour leaders could even talk to us on the one-way intercom in our helmets!

After a quick van ride and launching the jetskis, we climbed aboard and listened to the instructions to ride single file following the wake of the person ahead.

We started slow and stopped a time or two for sightseeing and equipment checks before reaching Decision Point. Big and small boats peek around the corner here to check out the waves, wind, and weather before deciding whether to continue. The waves were a bit bigger here as we navigated around the corner into Blackstone Bay. Blackstone Bay is a magical place with glaciers, waterfalls, icebergs, wildlife, and stunning views.

Photos cannot do it justice.
For the return trip, we all agreed that we were comfortable going faster—my jetski registered 55mph as we rode in wide swinging arcs back to our beach in Whittier! What a rush!! Glacier Jetski company and our tour guides were thoroughly professional, friendly, and deeply respectful of the special places they travel through. I could do this all season to see this beautiful place each day!!

Back on land we cleaned up and headed to town for dinner. We think we found the same place we ate last time we were here; at least the inside was familiar and it was on the water as we remembered. We enjoyed our halibut and chowder overlooking the marina and reliving our day’s adventure.

Our Alaska Marine Ferry trip to Valdez the next day didn’t depart until after lunch so we drove back out Shotgun Cove Trail to Lu Young Park. Cove Creek runs down into this protected cove and when we walked down to the beach we found spawning pink salmon.

We checked in at the ferry terminal and lined up behind another Hallmark camper.

It was an easy 5-hour passage to Valdez with clear weather and smooth seas.

We docked in Valdez where we’ll be for a week during Gold Rush Days!

Whittier Glacier and Whittier itself are named after John Greenleaf Whittier, one of the greatest poets of the nineteenth century.

Here is an excerpt from his poem

“The Worship of Nature”

The harp at Nature’s advent strung

Has never ceased to play

The song the stars of morning sung

Has never died away.

And prayer is made, and praise is given,

By all things near and far;

The ocean looketh up to heaven,

And mirrors every star.

Its waves are kneeling on the strand,

As kneels the human knee,

Their white locks bowing to the sand,

The priesthood of the sea!

They pour their glittering treasures forth,

Their gifts of pearl they bring,

And all the listening hills of earth

Take up the song they sing.

Exactly how Larry and I often feel when surrounded by the profound splendor of the world we get to explore!

Vancouver to Cache Creek

June 4, 2023

After the ferry crossing into Vancouver, we drove 54 miles north to camp for two nights at Porteau Cove Provincial Park on Howe sound. This was the one campground I’d hoped to be on the beach, but all those sites were booked within seconds of being available online 3 months ago. We still got a nice site across from the beach, and we walked the pier as well as the overlook at the south end of the park.

On May 31, we drove a few miles north where I had booked an underground mine tour at the Britannia Mine Museum. The tour was well done and our guide had us cover our ears to experience some of the noisy equipment used when copper was being mined here. That was the first time we had been on a mine tour with demonstrations!  There were many exhibits as well as a BOOM tour inside the old stamp mill.

Just when we thought we’d had enough fun we got to go gold panning! Larry might have come down with a little gold fever after panning for almost 2 hours.

The next day was the first of June, and we started at Shannon Falls to see the third highest fall in British Columbia.

We then made it to the Sea to Sky Gondola just as it opened. The gondola is a ten minute ride in cable cars with floor to ceiling windows.

On the ascent it looks like you’re going to hit a massive granite wall then you just go up and over it! Can you see the paraglider to the right of the closest cliff?

We walked some trails and the suspension bridge at the top before taking the return gondola and admiring the stunning views of Howe sound.

For a delicious snack we shared a custard, with nutella & brownies in cinnamon pastry cone from the Praguery.

Alice Lake Provincial Park was where we camped for the night and we enjoyed a trek around the lake. We were both impressed at how sturdy the little Canada gosling was already.

June 2 was a Friday and first thing in the morning I was able to score online day passes to hike Joffre Lakes the next day! Because Joffre lakes is so popular they try to limit the number of daily visitors. Afterwards, we drove to Brandywine Falls for a quick walk to the waterfall before heading north towards Whistler.

At the outskirts of Whistler we stopped to hike The Train Wreck site which is pretty cool and very popular. The train wreck was a cargo train where no one was injured, and the remaining rail cars are colorfully graffitied.

Bear sign.

It was still mid morning by the time we finished so we had no trouble getting a parking spot near Whistler Village. We posed in front of the Olympic Rings from the 2010 Winter Olympics.

Then we ate authentic Australian food at Peaked Pies. This is a savory pie in a flaky crust with mashed potatoes then mashed peas with brown gravy-actually very good and filling so we saved half for after our hike to Joffre lakes the next day.

Cal-Cheak recreation site campground is first come, first served, so we got there by early afternoon to get an available site and walk to their suspension bridge.

On Saturday we drove 45 minutes to get to the Joffre Lakes parking lot to start our hike before 7am. (An empty parking lot, one of our favorite morning surprises.)

The lakes were a solid uphill hike and the last part fairly rocky and root-y but I watched my feet and took my time.

Our favorite lake was the second lake but we had a snack at the third lake on a rocky scree.

The blue dot is us!

When we got back down to the first lake there were so many people, which we didn’t expect with the pass system. Always good to get an early start regardless! We ate our leftover peaked pies and drove south to our reservations at Nairn Falls Provincial Park.  After a rest, we hiked to Nairn Falls. This unique waterfall goes under a submerged rock bridge at its base so the water boils up further from the falls.

No water spigot so Larry had to use the hand pump and add water to the camper a gallon at a time. Just a little extra workout for the day!

Sunday was our last day on the Sea to Sky highway and it lived up to its name with the climb up the mountains. We were rewarded with sightings of a black bear in the road and then deer along the way to Cache Creek. What a beautiful drive!

I turn to this quote when I think something is too hard.

”Impossible is just a big word thrown around by small men who find it easier to live in the world they’ve been given than to explore the power they have to change it. Impossible is not a fact. It’s an opinion. Impossible is not a declaration. It’s a dare. Impossible is potential. Impossible is temporary.” -Muhammad Ali

June 7, 2023

When we know we’ll be driving any distance, we plan stops to get out and stretch our legs every two hours. It is also an opportunity to make a cup of coffee or have a snack, and to be sure the cat gets to go into the camper where his food, water, and litter box are ready for his break. I usually look for a scenic spot like the Chasm Ecological Park Canyon overlook.

Along our drive, we spotted a brown grizzly high up on the bank above the road and the rumps of a few elk to add to our wildlife sightings list.

Our next destination was the 108 Mile Ranch Heritage Site, named for the roadhouse located at mile 108 on the Cariboo Wagon Road used extensively in the 1850s during the Cariboo Gold Rush. There were several buildings to explore and learn about prospectors, pioneers, farmers, and trappers. The beautiful lake nearby made us want to stop and linger on the gorgeous early summer day!

We made it 230 miles to Williams Lake on June 4, where we boondocked at the Chances Signal Point Casino after washing a quick load of laundry in town. It was a quiet and convenient place to spend the night, with more elk trotting through the parking lot than on our drive!

On Monday, June 5, we drove into Prince George and found their famous statue “Mr. PG.” He’s a cutie but not easy to get to for a photo.

We made a few shopping stops before sharing poutine for lunch at Nancy O’s downtown. The first time we had this Canadian dish was 2019 in the Maritimes, so it was fun to enjoy it again with fond memories.

The small but lovingly done Central BC Railroad and Forestry Museum was blocks away where we enjoyed looking at the old rail cars, a turntable, and saved railroad buildings from British Columbia history. My favorite was the neat old beehive burner because you could walk right in!

We kept driving and camped for the night at Crooked River Provincial Park, making a day’s worth of 200 miles.The mosquitos there were the fiercest we have experienced so far! Larry braved their onslaught and walked both campground loops looking for a host to pay for camping, but after that we stayed inside.
The next day, June 6, our rest stop was at Bijoux Falls on the way to Chetwynd.

Chetwynd has an annual chainsaw carving contest each summer that draws international competitors. Over 150 past champions have their sculptures placed all around town and roadside on “Carvers Row” for visitors to appreciate.

The rest of the drive into Dawson Creek from Chetwynd became rolling and agricultural as we went, which was not what we had expected. We were excited to be at Dawson Creek and Mile 0–the start of the Alaska Highway! Of course, we took the anticipated picture by the World Famous Alaska Highway Sign and even found the official marker in town.

We spent two nights at the Mile 0 Campground where we had a chance to catch up on daily life chores.

Of the campgrounds we’ve been in so far, this one appears to be the staging area for adventurers heading north to Alaska. Everyone seems friendly and full of anticipation for the trip ahead. Larry is already noticing campers on the road, at campgrounds, and stops along the way that are on the same path!
Wednesday, June 7, was our last day in Dawson Creek so we strolled through the Walter Wright Pioneer Village attached to our campground. The Village was a collection of buildings and equipment from before, during, and just after the construction of the Alaska Highway in 1942. Such a perfect cabin, but maybe we’d have to play Marco Polo to find each other in so much space!

I was impressed by this intricate lacework, too.

There was an entire home restored as a museum dedicated to the history of the Alaska Highway that was very detailed and interesting. It was an engineering and logistic feat to have accomplished the design and building in nine short months, with movies and documentaries to celebrate the achievement.

Rested and ready, Alaska Highway here we come!

“You can’t wait until life isn’t hard anymore before you decide to be happy.” – Miss Jane Marczewsky (Nightbirde)

June 8, 2023

Note to future self about independence

When I fell and broke my right elbow and left wrist four weeks ago, I abruptly lost my ability to do, well, anything with my arms and hands because there are so many muscles that start and end around the wrist and elbow that are collateral damage in the insult to a broken bone.  I had no hand strength either, which is taking awhile to return, so I keep giving Larry jars and water bottles to open for me—oh, and child-proof caps 😡 (even though I know how important they are for safety).

I think I’ve come to understand how the someone might feel when they have always been able to take care of themselves and find themselves dependent upon others for help with even simple chores.  I’d like to say I didn’t ever get frustrated or grumpy but that wouldn’t be true, and I apologize for anyone who finds themselves impatient in these circumstances.  It isn’t that I was unappreciative with Larry for how he was helping me, but that I couldn’t do it myself, my way.  

I took this screenshot in 2018 and it has been on my mind since my fall. According to the internet, the quote is from Thich Nhat Hanh, a Vietnamese Thien Buddhist Monk.

Funny how something happens to you that brings clarity and maybe a preview of the future – is this what aging is like from the viewpoint of an older person? When someone asks my age, that number isn’t real to me because I never thought of it as a limitation. I mean, who cares, I’m active and have so much left I want to do!

Not so, future self, when you eventually lose your independence remember what you want to spill out of your cup to those who help you. Please be grateful, patient and kind because they don’t understand your frustration and that’s not their fault. (Someone please remind me if need be in the future).

My son-in-law asked me if I now had the answer to “would you rather not have arms or not have legs.” I hadn’t thought about it until he asked, and I realized the question really is do you value mobility (having no arms) or independence (having no legs). There is a quote about there being no difference between those who don’t read and those who can’t read.  I think you can substitute any action for “read” and appreciate how we take an ability we have for granted.  Even with one arm in a cast and the other in a sling, I was still able to do some hikes, go up and down stairs (carefully) and go many of the places I wanted to see. So, yeah, as long has I have my phenomenal spouse to help, I want legs to explore the world!

Dawson Creek to Teslin

June 11, 2023

On Monday, June 8, we woke to a smoke-filled sky with light ash falling onto the camper and a red sun trying to burn through the haze. While we knew that the fires in Canada were close to us this was the first day that the weather had been affected. The smoke and ash lessened on our 280-mile drive to Fort Nelson that day, and our thoughts were with the firefighters that there might be some helpful rain.

In Fort Nelson, we toured the Fort Nelson Heritage Museum, where there were vehicles, radio equipment, cabins, and an impressive display of mounted animals. We spent more time than planned just because there was so much to see.  Marl Brown, who recently passed away, was a passionate collector whose varied interests and hard work made the museum possible.

On the drive west from Fort Nelson, we were surprised by a baby black bear just on the side of the road, followed in quick succession by several adults, plus a mother bear and a cub!  All of them were munching on the dandelions growing roadside which we later learned is one of their favorite foods. Local Alaskans sped on by so they must be used to seeing them!

After driving 350 miles for the day, we camped at the Tetsa River Lodge.  The Lodge is famous for their cinnamon rolls and we had been anticipating them all day! We split one along with delicious homemade rolls and soup.

The owner’s feisty 12-year-old dog awakened us later that night barking at a big black bear in the empty campsite between us and our neighbor.  Good dog!

Friday we got more cinnamon rolls and drove to Muncho Lake. The large lake was still with its surface like a mirror, but the persistent smoke kept us from seeing the beautiful blue color everyone raves about.

We stopped to take photos and promised ourselves to return sometime when we can fully appreciate the beauty of Muncho Lake and maybe even go kayaking.   At the nearby Mineral Lick trail we hiked down to see if any moose, caribou, or stone sheep were there as they often come to get the minerals they need from the hillsides.

Although we came up empty on the wildlife, we met a German couple whose truck camper had a great quote on the back – they were surprised I was able to translate it (Thank you Herr Braxton for 3 years of high school German and for those brain cells who are so happy to have been helpful).  “Wenn Nicht Jetzt, Wann Dann? “ is “If Not Now, Then When?”

Later, we saw this group maybe getting their minerals roadside? Still so smoky!

Our camping spot for the night was at Liard River Hot Springs, and just before the entrance, we saw a bear and then an enormous bison.

A tall electric fence surrounds the campground to keep out the bear, bison, and moose that occasionally do manage to find a way in! 

 Fortunately, we got there early enough in the afternoon to secure a campsite as the campground was full by late afternoon. The hot springs are outside the wire on a boardwalk past marsh and wetlands.

Liard Hot Springs is very hot at the source but cooled off enough to soak in the middle section where we enjoyed chatting with other travelers. 

Saturday was a big day with a fun destination – Watson Lake and the Sign Post Forest!  On our way, we first stopped at Smith River Falls

and then at Whirlpool Canyon (whirlpool to left)

The Yukon!

Bison are numerous along this section of the road and you have to watch for them.

You really have to watch for them!

We think the car ahead of us was feeding this bear? As we drove up it was standing on its hind legs at the drivers side window.

And thought we were good for a handout too? NOPE!

The Official Yukon sign

The Sign Post Forest in Watson Lake takes up at least a whole “city” block now, but we found a great spot to put our Free Range Fun Hogs sign I had ordered back in Washington. It has been quite the journey to get to this point planning, working, and traveling!

We went to the Northern Lights Center Planetarium to watch a show about  the aurora borealis or Northern Lights.  Later we drove to the nearby Watson Lake Forest Service Campground to reserve a campsite before it filled.  

On Sunday, 6/11, we drove in and out of the Yukon and British Columbia on the way to Whitehorse.  It was after we left Watson Lake that the surroundings felt unexpectedly different, in a good way. The land had the look and feel of untamed wild, with big vistas where mountains in the distance still had snow chutes, and the two-lane road cut to the horizon between a forest of spruce and lodge pole pines crowded to the edges of dark swift running rivers that likely saw no human traffic. It would have been no surprise for a trapper or prospector to emerge roadside from the wilderness. The youngster in me who read every book by Jack London breathed a sign of thanks to the older me.  

We then spent hours at the George Johnston Museum in Teslin.  

In addition to owning the first automobile in town, George was famous for his self-taught photography. The Chevrolet he drove on the frozen Yukon as his “road” is perfectly restored and on display.

The museum also told the story of the Alaskan Highway from the perspective of the First Nations it displaced, complete with George’s photos and artifacts of the way they lived before the road came through.

 Honestly, it was a little unsettling, like the Joni Mitchell song “They paved paradise and put up a parking lot.”  The Tlingit Heritage Center nearby offered some lovely artifacts to appreciate, and we were thankful to learn that the First Nation people are experiencing a resurgence of interest in celebrating their culture.  

The next stop a little further on was a display of several abandoned vehicles from the building of the Alaskan Highway, and we weren’t sure at that point how we felt about the Highway.  

As the day ended, we found a private and peaceful boondocking spot on a lake where we sat in our chairs and listened to the loons while we thought about it all. 

“I would rather be ashes than dust! I would rather that my spark should burn out in a brilliant blaze than it should be stifled by dry-rot. I would rather be a superb meteor, every atom of me in magnificent glow, than a sleepy and permanent planet. The function of man is to live, not to exist. I shall not waste my days trying to prolong them. I shall use my time.” – Jack London

Completing the Alaska Highway in Delta Junction then the Richardson Highway to Fairbanks

June 16, 2023

On Wednesday, June 12, we woke to a lovely view at our campsite.

We drove through more Yukon beauty to the Carcross Desert, the world’s smallest desert (what is left of an ancient glacial lake, kept active by winds from nearby Bennett Lake.)  

At the Miles Canyon Suspension bridge on the outskirts of Whitehorse, we crossed the footbridge, amazed to think that the gold rush prospectors navigated down this narrow canyon in flimsy rafts!  Whitehorse was named because the whitewater waves on this stretch of the Yukon River reminded early pioneers of white waving horse manes and tails, though it is much less wild now with dams controlling its flow.

Our first stop in Whitehorse was at the SS Klondike Sternwheeler where we took a Parks Canada tour.  The SS Klondike is one of the few preserved steam-powered paddlewheelers that traveled the Yukon for almost 100 years.

While we were the only two people on the tour with our guide Lauriene, she said this fellow had been showing up regularly on tours lately.

We walked around downtown Whitehorse, including the Kwanlin Dun Cultural Centre and the Whitehorse Visitor Centre. Lunch, diesel fuel, a hardware store, Walmart, Canadian Tire, and a Canadian Superstore were all shopping stops, and we spent the night comfortably in the Canadian Superstore parking lot with a few other rigs. 

On Thursday we were off to find the metal horse statue celebrating how Whitehorse was named.

We parked at the SS Klondike again to walk the trail up and down both banks of the Yukon River.   Many of the aspen trees had this interesting pattern on their leaves, and we learned later this was the result of leaf miner larvae.

The rest of the morning and early afternoon were spent exploring the MacBride Museum, whose extensive collections record area history.

Oooh, can our future cabin have a bear rug like this?

Looking good in a uniform!

First Nation designs are so beautiful!

We returned later that night for their celebration of 125 years of the Klondike Gold Rush where Larry did some more gold panning!  

The cake was delicious and a group called the Ruby Sisters entertained us for the evening.

On Friday, June 14, we left Whitehorse for Long Ago People’s Place near Champagne Landing for a living cultural demonstration.

A porcupine greeted us before the gate opened and Meta (pronounced Meeta) came to welcome us. 

 Meta is a Southern Tutchone First Nation who has returned with her partner Harold to create a space that preserves their heritage and passes the knowledge on to the next generation.  Meta commented that woodpeckers “wake the forest up for spring” because the young are very insistent and that the elders called her and Harold “the woodpeckers reawakening their community.”  To illustrate her point, this woodpecker family was nesting nearby and the chicks were definitely hard to ignore!

Meta’s respect for the elders was evident when she stopped everything to make them tea when they arrived. She then took us on a tour of the cabins and their contents, weaving stories into her demonstration of various tools.  

We have learned that First Nation stories belong to a clan, and if you are not of that clan you cannot borrow the story to tell. So, you’ll have to come listen to Meta to hear the stories of her clan!   

She cautioned me to watch my step as we moved about the tree roots and rocks in the woods because “feet sometimes forget the feel of the earth.”  That was an interesting thought and it has stuck with me to remember to pay attention to the feel of the earth as I walk.  She explained that in Winter the spruce trees store energy below the ground in their roots and for a brief moment in Spring this life energy rises to come out at the spruce tips.  She took the cap off a tiny new spruce tip and gave it to me to try.  It was as if Christmas exploded in my mouth, sweet and rich, full of anticipation and hope that season brings yet so appropriate for the promise of spring.  At the end of our wonderful tour, Meta made us tea and bread called bannock to enjoy.  

The drive from Long Ago People’s Place into Kluane (pronounced clue on knee) National Park was full of fun sights. If you’ve lost a hubcap on your journey this place in Champagne Landing can hit you up! Is it a hubcap forest or modern version of totems?

The Canyon Creek Bridge was built in 1903 for the gold rush. Famous Sam McGee and a partner ran a roadhouse nearby. The bridge was rebuilt for the Alaska Highway in 1942, and restored in 1987 and 2005.

And then, just spectacular!

Photos cannot do justice—with its grandeur and majesty if Kluane was in the lower 48 it would be one of our national parks (and mobbed with visitors). Seventeen of Canada’s twenty tallest mountains are found in the park, as well as lakes and trails inviting exploration. Since it is here, so far away and so little known, its wild beauty remains, well, wild. Shhhhh, don’t tell.  

We camped at Kathleen Lake which is such a beautiful spot that the beach is adorned with the signature red Parks Canada chairs.

The next morning we saw a grizzly ahead by the side of the road. The sound of our exhaust brake as we slowed down to take a picture caused the bear to stand up (on the left, just below the white sign) and see what we were before running off.

We then hiked to the Soldiers Summit, where the Alaskan Highway officially opened in 1942. It was a beautiful overlook, complete with red Parks Canada chairs. 

We stopped at a cute little lake to have lunch, which included anything vegetable, fruit, or meat that needed cooking because—we were going to cross the border into ALASKA!

  But first, we needed to pay our dues to get to Alaska because the drive on the last part of the Alaska Highway to the Canadian border was the worst. Road work created long stretches of gravel roads with one-way-only traffic.  Sections not under construction were plagued with frost heaves, potholes, and ruts. Even the workers got tortured!

Alaska at last!  We are here again!

The road only got a little better until Tok so it was late when we arrived.  No worries, we’ll be back to explore in the fall! Our boondocking spot for the night was by a peaceful little lake where only the mosquitos bothered us, although there was a water pump for the crews to use wetting down the dusty gravel roads.  

Sunday, June 16, was our last long driving day for awhile once we get to Fairbanks. From Tok, we drove to Delta Junction where the Alaska Highway ends.

Larry posed with the Alaska State Bird and we toured the Sullivan Roadhouse Museum.

This 120 year old log structure has survived being moved twice, abandoned for a long time, and used as part of a bombing range! Originally one of many roadhouses where travelers by stagecoach from Valdez to Fairbanks could pay to rest on their journey, it is the only to have survived—probably because it had a metal roof and a community who wouldn’t let it be destroyed.

Of course, no drive to Fairbanks from this route is complete without a stop at the North Pole!  In 2017 we spent a half day touring the North Pole and shopping for Christmas ornaments in the expansive gift shop.  This time we settled for photo opportunities and fond memories.  

The day ended in Fairbanks where we will stay for about ten days!

About the Alaska Flag (our favorite state flag!)

Summer Solstice!

June 26, 2023

We stayed in Fairbanks from June 16 to June 26, and it was a wonderful place to have fun and get things done.  On our first visit to Fairbanks in October of 2017, we saw the spectacular Museum of The North as well as Running Reindeer Ranch, Creamers Field, the Aleyska Pipeline, Chena Hot Springs Resort, Angel Rocks Trail,  Hilltop Restaurant on the Elliott Highway, and the North Pole.

All of the above are worthy of a visit, but we planned to see new places. We timed our stay so that we could celebrate the midnight sun during the Summer Solstice. Our campground in Fairbanks was at the Elks Club (we’re Elk members) on the Chena River, where kayaks, boats, and paddle boarders went by our back door on the weekends.  Downtown was just across the river and we found the antler arch!

Our first fun activity was to take a half-day float fishing trip with Alaska Fishing and Rafting Adventures down the Chena River. We purchased our Alaska fishing licenses in advance, then early one morning our guides drove us about 34 miles northeast to the Hodgins Slough Access.  When we launched the boats at the river we were greeted by swarms of biting mosquitos and were grateful to have head nets.  Once we got out on the water, they were less numerous though still as fierce!  Our guide Dave rowed us to several spots along the river, where I used a spinner rod and Larry tried fly fishing for the first time.  Neither of us had worn wading pants before and it was a unique experience to feel the cold water but not get wet. Both of us landed a grayling!

On the summer solstice (also our 38th wedding anniversary!), we picked up our bibs for the Midnight Sun Run later that week and found the Chinook Hot Dog bus recommended by our river guide. Great hotdogs made by a great guy! 

 Later that afternoon we visited Pioneer Park where we toured old cabins and buildings from early Fairbanks history preserved and moved to this location.  

Their aviation museum was especially interesting–flying is an essential way of travel for Alaskans, with a rich history of innovation and adventure.

We had dinner at the Alaskan Salmon Bake before being entertained at the Golden Heart Review comedy musical about Fairbanks’s history.  

While the sun never really set, we had no problem sleeping. 

The Riverboat Discovery cruise on a replica Sternwheeler was an attraction that exceeded our expectations in how well done it was, especially considering how few months it operates.  

We enjoyed the sled dog demo by Trail Breaker Kennels, and talks at the Athabascan Village.

I had the book “Granite” autographed by Susan Butcher’s husband and purchased the stuffed animal to go along with it as inspiration for our granddaughter.  

The book celebrates how Susan’s belief in the runt of the litter helped him become the lead dog on all of her four Iditarod championships. We ate a family-style lunch at their restaurant and talked to fellow tourists before driving to the Dredge #8 tour a little north of town. Larry had a blast panning for gold and his efforts were rewarded with 45 dollars worth of gold flakes!

Another morning we met our van tour at 5:40 am and rode with guide Anna Kate for 232 miles of the Dalton Highway to the Arctic Circle.  

Known as the “Haul Road,” this rough gravel road is used primarily by commercial truckers driving from Fairbanks to the oil fields in Deadhorse.

We decided to take a guided van tour and were glad we did as it is a long drive from Fairbanks to the Arctic Circle.  Our tour included stops at Joy’s,

Finger Rock landmark,

the Yukon River Fish Camp for lunch and dinner,

(This is the same almost 2000 mile Yukon River we saw just after its start south of Whitehorse on its way to the Bering Sea!)

the Arctic Circle for photos,

a permafrost demonstration, and the Pipeline.  

We admired this group for their courage riding on the Dalton!

The day finished back in Fairbanks around midnight along with a certificate for crossing the Arctic Circle.

Sunset lasts for several hours and then the sun rises again!

The Summer Solstice Festival was downtown on Saturday, June 24, and we walked over to see the fun.  Our favorite part was a competition where teams vied for the fastest time pushing a Hummer up the street.  Of course, we were rooting for the Army team!

We purchased fun Bear and Moose hats at Walmart for the Midnight Sun 10K that night.

There are serious competitors, but many runners dress up in costumes, and neighborhoods along the route provide refreshments, encouragement, and sprinklers to cool off!  

Larry mentioned we might want to jog a little at the start to get out of the crowd, and I said we could keep it up—so we did.  We jogged for 30 seconds and walked for 30 seconds the entire 10K. The run started at 10 pm and we finished before midnight with a time of 1:24:12 and a 13:34 minute mile average. Pretty good!

It was a great ending to our stay in Fairbanks!

“Once you come to Alaska you never go all the way home.” – a local Alaskan

Washington and Last Work 

May 15, 3023

The first two weeks of May we were stationary at the Coho Evergreen SKP Park in Chimacum, Washington.  We had planned this as our last work stop and staging area before Alaska, and there were chores to be done. But first, we stopped at Mount Walker on the drive there for a picnic lunch and to admire the view almost to Seattle.  

We had an appointment for the transmission fluid to be changed in Bremerton, as well as look at the transfer case and front axles.  Larry changed the oil himself and sent both fluids off to Blackstone Laboratories for analysis.  He always does this for our rigs, as the tests performed and the written report gives vital information on wear as well as clues for potential future issues. I also had scheduled an annual appointment for thermography, which is another methodology for earlier detection of breast cancer to be extra vigilant.  There was an REI nearby so we returned the jackets we had purchased in Arizona as we found they had wet through in a drizzle of rain which would not be sufficient for Alaska. Here’s hoping the new ones are better!

Orders were placed for items we decided we wanted after our month-long shake-down road trip. The doormat inside the Ute was too small, so we replaced it with a larger one and moved the small one to the step outside.  Larry added the nonskid racing stripes for a professional look

Bills were paid, more reservations were made as parts of Alaska emerged from winter to start booking (Still no schedule for Gold Rush Days in Valdez, but I’ll keep watching), had our held mail sent to us from our mail forwarding service and other chores. One really cool thing we ordered was our FRFH sign for the Sign Post Forest in Watson Lake, YT. PlaqueMaker.com did a great job with our logo and really quick delivery! 

We changed phone plans to travel into Canada–I upgraded my Visible plan to include international calling and Larry switched from Consumer Cellular to Cricket. Starlink now works in all the areas of Canada and Alaska that we’re going so internet access should be good. Larry found Star-Mount Systems for a low profile flat mount of the Starlink on the Ute roof. Brandon, the owner of the company, made sure we got it in time to make the modifications before leaving. It involved cutting the Starlink off of the motor and housing which with the right tools, instructions and skills Larry made to look a lot less scary than it sounds. Of course installation was probably equally complex with cables to run, grommets and waterproof gland to traverse, cable ends to be made, and rearranging other installs to make room for everything. Larry got it all done, in addition to a blue tooth controlled switch we can turn on and off sitting inside of the cab of the truck! (He’s magical!)

He washed both vehicles so we start our trip all shiny, too! The Alaska license plate on the front is from a gift store in Anchorage on our first visit to Alaska in 2009, and it seems appropriate to put it on Marvin for our trip. (In Florida, only the back of the vehicle requires a tag)

We did have a little fun hiking up to “The Rock” near the park one afternoon where we got this great view!

And we had coffee with Joodie and TBG from Chasing Dirt (https://joodiek.wordpress.com/), who we met in Death Valley March 2020 and visited in Wisconsin July of 2021. Joodie has been blogging since forever and has been a great coach and cheering section to get me going on the blog. Any similarities to her design style are purely intentional. Thanks you two 😀

This SKP park has an army of residents who are very serious about gardening and it shows in the spring flowers everywhere.

Wait, is that….?

😉

And now, tomorrow we leave for Vancouver Island!! No more prep work or talk of it. We are done with projects although we’re amazed (and maybe a little burnt out) by all that we accomplished in two months!

The value of a postage stamp is its ability to stick to one thing until it gets there.  Be like a postage stamp. – Josh Billings