Month: May 2023

Washington and Last Work 

May 15, 3023

The first two weeks of May we were stationary at the Coho Evergreen SKP Park in Chimacum, Washington.  We had planned this as our last work stop and staging area before Alaska, and there were chores to be done. But first, we stopped at Mount Walker on the drive there for a picnic lunch and to admire the view almost to Seattle.  

We had an appointment for the transmission fluid to be changed in Bremerton, as well as look at the transfer case and front axles.  Larry changed the oil himself and sent both fluids off to Blackstone Laboratories for analysis.  He always does this for our rigs, as the tests performed and the written report gives vital information on wear as well as clues for potential future issues. I also had scheduled an annual appointment for thermography, which is another methodology for earlier detection of breast cancer to be extra vigilant.  There was an REI nearby so we returned the jackets we had purchased in Arizona as we found they had wet through in a drizzle of rain which would not be sufficient for Alaska. Here’s hoping the new ones are better!

Orders were placed for items we decided we wanted after our month-long shake-down road trip. The doormat inside the Ute was too small, so we replaced it with a larger one and moved the small one to the step outside.  Larry added the nonskid racing stripes for a professional look

Bills were paid, more reservations were made as parts of Alaska emerged from winter to start booking (Still no schedule for Gold Rush Days in Valdez, but I’ll keep watching), had our held mail sent to us from our mail forwarding service and other chores. One really cool thing we ordered was our FRFH sign for the Sign Post Forest in Watson Lake, YT. PlaqueMaker.com did a great job with our logo and really quick delivery! 

We changed phone plans to travel into Canada–I upgraded my Visible plan to include international calling and Larry switched from Consumer Cellular to Cricket. Starlink now works in all the areas of Canada and Alaska that we’re going so internet access should be good. Larry found Star-Mount Systems for a low profile flat mount of the Starlink on the Ute roof. Brandon, the owner of the company, made sure we got it in time to make the modifications before leaving. It involved cutting the Starlink off of the motor and housing which with the right tools, instructions and skills Larry made to look a lot less scary than it sounds. Of course installation was probably equally complex with cables to run, grommets and waterproof gland to traverse, cable ends to be made, and rearranging other installs to make room for everything. Larry got it all done, in addition to a blue tooth controlled switch we can turn on and off sitting inside of the cab of the truck! (He’s magical!)

He washed both vehicles so we start our trip all shiny, too! The Alaska license plate on the front is from a gift store in Anchorage on our first visit to Alaska in 2009, and it seems appropriate to put it on Marvin for our trip. (In Florida, only the back of the vehicle requires a tag)

We did have a little fun hiking up to “The Rock” near the park one afternoon where we got this great view!

And we had coffee with Joodie and TBG from Chasing Dirt (https://joodiek.wordpress.com/), who we met in Death Valley March 2020 and visited in Wisconsin July of 2021. Joodie has been blogging since forever and has been a great coach and cheering section to get me going on the blog. Any similarities to her design style are purely intentional. Thanks you two 😀

This SKP park has an army of residents who are very serious about gardening and it shows in the spring flowers everywhere.

Wait, is that….?

😉

And now, tomorrow we leave for Vancouver Island!! No more prep work or talk of it. We are done with projects although we’re amazed (and maybe a little burnt out) by all that we accomplished in two months!

The value of a postage stamp is its ability to stick to one thing until it gets there.  Be like a postage stamp. – Josh Billings

Yes – to both 🫤

May 19, 2023

Early in the morning of Monday May 15, we drove from the SKP park in Chimacum to the Black Ball Ferry Landing in Port Angeles, Washington. We were giddy with excitement and anticipation of the adventure ahead! 

Ready to be a Canada cat!

From the aft deck of the ferry we waved goodbye to the lower 48 – see you in September……

It’s official!

The 90 minute voyage to Canada was uneventful, and we mentally crosschecked ourselves that we had everything we needed for the border crossing after we disembarked. The agent was quite chatty at first, really admiring our truck and camper but was then a little confused by our souvenir Alaska license plate on the front. He switched gears and asked different questions when he realized we were from Florida. “Are there any firearms in this vehicle?” No. “Have there ever been any firearms in this vehicle?” No. For a few seconds we were thinking we’d be sent to the “other” line where a much more thorough inspection occurs, but were given our passports and told to enjoy our travels. Whew! Later we admitted to each other we had both been thinking that in its former life in West by God Virginia we could envision a gun rack and long guns in the back window of Marvin, but we personally didn’t have anything except bear spray.

We drove to Butchart Gardens in Victoria where the legendary gardens were in full spring bloom and I had made us reservations (waaay back on February 15th!) for High Tea in the Dining Room.  What a way to celebrate!

We feel right at home here 😀

After a stop at Walmart to re-provision those supplies we couldn’t bring across the border, we went to our campsite at Goldstream Provincial Park nearby. I had looked at photos and chosen all the campsites for their view and amenities back in January so it is fun to drive up to each park and see how well I did!

The next day, Tuesday, we drove up the eastern coast of Vancouver Island to Nanaimo, where we stopped at Bocca cafe for some Nanaimo bars. These no bake bars are a signature delicacy of the area, so much so that there is a driving “trail” of bakeries so you can sample all the varieties. We ate ours at the Harborfront near the Nanaimo sign (pronounced nah NEYE moe)

We hiked to lovely nearby Ammonite falls, which became a theme as the Island has so many beautiful waterfall hikes

We stayed at Rathtrevor Provincial Park on the beach for several days while in Nanaimo.

Wednesday we hiked to Englishman River Falls which is the deepest gorge waterfall in Canada.

We drove to Cathedral Grove for a peaceful stroll on boardwalks through lush old growth forest.

Impressive Little Qualicum River Falls rounded out our exploring for the day

The Old Country Market is a well known stop because of the goats who live on the roof! (Well, that and nearby Coombs ice cream as a treat)

Thursday we had plans for more hiking in the area that started with a trail to the Abyss, which is a deep crack in the rocky hillside.

Then, on the way down the “bust” part happened. 

A tree root caught in the toe tip of my shoe and held my foot so I fell forward onto an unforgiving granite outcropping. (I’ll never hike without my hiking poles again!)

The very professional and very pleasant Canadian ER doctor was delighted that I didn’t have a concussion or broken teeth (same). I did end up with a cut over my right eyebrow where my sunglass rim dug in, and in breaking my fall with my arms I broke them – both. One of the bones in my right arm was broken near the elbow and one of the bones my left arm was broken near the wrist. The orthopedic surgeon felt both could be managed successfully without surgery which was a relief. So I ended the day sporting stitches over my right eyebrow, a cool blue fiberglass wrist cast on my left arm and a shoulder brace on my right arm —it’s a great look to start a trip with!

Of course we’re continuing on our Alaska adventure, with modifications, but the fun in Nanaimo is finished and we’ll be moving on tomorrow. I’m really disappointed in myself for getting injured, but the real casualty casualty here is Larry. After months of preparation he deserved fun and relaxation. Instead his work load doubled as now he does everything! He has been my real hero, very supportive and caring without a single complaint or word of frustration about the current circumstances. I’m a very very lucky lady!!    

Adventure and adversity go hand in hand. – Boss of the Swamp

The Alaska Milepost had this recipe for the very popular Nanaimo Bars in case that picture of them made you want to try one 😋

On Friday, May 19, we left Nanaimo and drove 80 miles north from Rathtrevor Beach to Campbell River.  Along the way we stopped at Qualicum Beach, which at low tide was a shallow sandy beach just perfect for a sunny morning stroll at the start of the long Victoria Day weekend.  Victoria Day is the official start of summer in Canada, much like Memorial Day is for the United States.

Larry loved the float plane that marked the city entrance to Campbell River.

It was fun walk the wharf and the docks of the busy and picturesque marinas where we could admire the boats and the clear blue water.

We ate at Dockside Fish and Chips overlooking one of the marinas. The fries were flavorful garlic Parmesan and the fish was flaky, tender, hot and not at all greasy.  We enjoyed it so much that we tried to go back at the end of our stay for a repeat, but they were closed on the holiday.

This was our campsite at Elk Falls Provincial Park.  The site I chose from online reservations was right on the stream, and on arrival it was just as lovely as I had hoped.  Since we left each day to go exploring, we told our neighbors across the way that they and their children were welcome to play in our site while we were gone.  

We visited the Museum of Campbell River, and though there was much to see, I was intrigued by the design of this chair in their replica of a log cabin interior. Four pieces of wood and 10 screws or nails—sturdy, simple and easy to disassemble if needed. Ingenious.

It was too early in the summer for the salmon run at the Quinsam River Salmon Hatchery, but the workers were busy catching and counting some of the young salmon smolts heading downstream  to grow up in the ocean. 

We had planned a whale watch and kayak tour for Sunday of the long weekend, but  the company cancelled due to high winds creating large wind waves and difficult kayaking conditions.  Instead, we drove inland to Strathcona Provincial Park. This park is a hidden gem, with beautiful scenery and short day hikes to (what else) waterfalls.

Myra Falls was the furthest away on our drive, so we went there first. The logs to the right of the waterfall are caught in an eddy and just keep circling in the foamy current.

Such beautiful roadside scenery!

Lupin Falls was next, where we met a friendly local who had forty of her family members joining her that weekend to celebrate her birthday.  The kids and dogs in the group especially enjoyed the pool at the base of the falls.

The last stop of the day was Lady Falls—sorry, I wasn’t going to pose by that sign 😆.  You couldn’t get close to these falls, but the volume of water and enclosing rock walls made for a refreshing cool mist, as well as some rainbows.

On Monday, we took the trail out to the Elk Falls Suspension Bridge and Falls which were very near our campground.  There is a pretty good view of the falls from the suspension bridge.

We spent several hours at the Maritime Heritage Centre, which is small but packed with exhibits.  Community members painstakingly restored this fishing vessel, the likes of which used to grace the Canadian five dollar bill.

Harold, one of the volunteer docents, was the reason we stayed so long while he shared his extensive knowledge of Campbell River history.  He is also an expert model ship builder and below is just one of several of the model ships he loaned the museum for display.  What a treat!

We rounded out the holiday weekend with more delicious fish and chips, this time at Dick’s Fish and Chips across from the harbor.

Vancouver Island is a natural beauty, and with summer now officially started, I’m glad we have reservations to stay in their lovely provincial parks. The last few days have been a challenge, but we feel we made the right decision to continue on our adventure instead of returning to the states. 

“Life is like a bicycle. To keep your balance you must keep moving.”  

 – Albert Einstein

Tofino, Vancouver Island, BC

May 26, 2023

On Tuesday, May 23, we left Campbell River and headed 164 miles to Tofino, which is on the west coast of Vancouver Island. When I made this itinerary, I did not fully understand the topography of Vancouver Island.  There is a spine, or ridge of mountains, that runs up the center of the island and makes for a very scenic drive across the island.  Scenic here can also be read as curving, twisting, with steep inclines and declines, narrow roads, blind corners, and wow there isn’t room for the semi and us on this turn. Thankfully Larry is a great driver!

First we drove south on the east coast back towards Nanaimo to pick up the Pacific Rim Highway at Coombs. We passed Cathedral Grove that we had visited on May 17 before stopping for a place called Hole in the Wall.  We parked on the narrow road shoulder and found the trailhead for a short hike to where a creek now runs through a hole blasted in volcanic rock for a long-removed water pipeline.  It can be busy but on this morning we had it to ourselves.

The next break in our drive was a stop at Sproat Lake Provincial Park to see one of the best panels of petroglyphs in British Columbia.  It was more of a stroll to view the Petroglyphs, and very surprising to compare how much they have faded in comparison to the informational sign about them with a picture from 1970’s.

We completed the “scenic” drive at Wickaninnish Beach on the west coast near the visitor center of the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve.  On our beach walk there we saw our first surfers – this is where Canada goes to hang ten!  

The Rain Forest Figure 8 trail was on the way to our campground, so we enjoyed this walk completely on boardwalk-with lots and lots of stairs-through the lush vegetation.

I had booked us a site very close to the beach at Surf Grove campground in Tofino, so we could enjoy walks on the beach and long sunsets. 

 Wednesday morning we carefully timed our walk on Chesterman beach to see the tide pools. We had read that difference between low tide and high tide on these long shallow beaches made a huge difference in where you could walk.  There were plenty of starfish and sea anemone to see, and even an island you could only reach at low tide.  

This little guy is a long way from shore!

Afterwards, we had delicious seafood tacos at TacoFino food truck with the guava soda as a nice taste contrast.  

We spent time in the afternoon talking to some tours we had booked for June and July. We decided to change the paddle whitewater rafting in Denali for an oar trip so I wouldn’t have to paddle (July 1 update-the paddle trip I had originally booked was canceled due to high waters making rapids being too dangerous so we ended up being on the only trip available anyway – Yay!).  The ice climbing adventure on the glacier will have to be for Larry only (this trip anyway!) but they’ll take pictures for me. Thursday we hiked the Wild Pacific Trail Lighthouse loop in the beautiful morning light. There were sweeping views of the Pacific and clear blue skies for the Amphitrite lighthouse vista.

We then made sure to get to Florencia Bay at low tide for another lovely beach walk.

Sunset back at our campground was the perfect time for Larry to capture some “endless summer” photos of people on the beach!  He even shared their photos with two very appreciative surfers.

It was the best ending to our stay in Tofino.

“Life is a lot like surfing… When you get caught in the impact zone, you’ve got to just get back up. Because you never know what may be over the next wave.” – Bethany Hamilton, professional surfer and shark attack survivor

May 30, 2023

On Friday, May 26, we left Tofino, drove east across the island on the scenic Pacific Rim highway again, around the southern tip of the island and back up the west coast to French Beach Park. Again, not my original plan but after one scenic drive we decided not to take another longer scenic drive back across the island. There really aren’t many roads that go across the island because of the mountainous terrain. Do we get extra points for circumnavigating the island perimeter?  

It was about a six hour drive but I did want to see Jordan River and Port Renfrew area which face the Juan De Fuca straits. After getting set up in our site we walked down the hill to the beach, which reminded me very much of San Juan Island beaches I visited as a child.  It is interesting how smells, sights, or sounds can be so strongly linked to our memories.

There is a steep hill behind the wooden fence at the back of our campsite, and a recurring theme of a large rock in the middle of the site. The placement of the rock seems random so I’m not sure if it’s there to protect the picnic table or some other structure, prevent driving off the RV area, or simply as a tripping hazard.

This is such a cute way to light up the outhouse! Just a string of battery operated LED lights stuck into the bottom of small red solo cups and strung up from opposite walls. Turn them on in the evening and off in the morning to save the batteries.

The host was quick to tell us that the campground had almost ripe salmon berries everywhere and recent bear visits, though none occurred during our visit.

The next day we drove up to Port Renfrew to hike the Botanical Beach loop trail.  Just before we arrived at the trailhead parking lot we saw our first bear of the trip! The large black bear was in full view on the road but reluctantly moved into the tall roadside brush. (That look clearly says “Really?”)

The ranger at the trailhead was not surprised and chuckled that they were as plentiful as robins in spring. In fact, there was one down on part of the beach hike and we should give it space to do what bears do on the beach. That particular black bear had moved along by the time we reached the beach so I cannot report on what exactly it is bears do on the beach. We did enjoy our hike there along the coastal forest with low tide beach exploration.

On Sunday we had breakfast at the very popular Shirley Delicious just around the corner from our campground. The hike to Sheringham Point lighthouse started a short drive away. Score–food and fun without much driving for Larry!

Monday was our last day on Vancouver Island and we used it to get ready to cross on the ferry from Duke Point terminal in Nanaimo to the Tsawwassen ferry terminal in Vancouver. Translation-drive back to Nanaimo, fuel up RAM, do laundry and other chores. Tuesday, May 30, we boarded the ferry and waved goodbye to Vancouver Island.

Some of the adventure so far has been unexpected, but we are so glad we began our trek to Alaska by exploring this part of beautiful British Columbia!

In Vancouver we made a short grocery stop and then had lunch at the Lansdowne Centre Mall in Richmond. A friendly patron made a menu suggestion that was delicious.

Eating out gives Larry a break from cooking, though he’s doing a great job! My right arm comes out of the sling tomorrow but I’m only supposed to do range of motion exercises for the next couple of weeks and not actually use it. I will say that climbing in and out of the cab-over bed of the truck camper without using arms has been a good core work out 😁

As we drove out of Vancouver up the Sea to Sky Highway we are excited to start this next section of our trip!

May 29 was Memorial Day in the United States. During the first World War, a Canadian military surgeon wrote the poem recognized worldwide as a tribute to those who gave their lives in defense of their country. This is why the American Legion chose the poppy pins to support the future of veterans, active-duty military personnel and their families with medical and financial needs.

In Flanders Fields

In Flanders fields the poppies blow
Between the crosses, row on row,
That mark our place; and in the sky
The larks, still bravely singing, fly
Scarce heard amid the guns below. 

We are the Dead. Short days ago
We lived, felt dawn, saw sunset glow,
Loved and were loved, and now we lie,
In Flanders fields. 

Take up our quarrel with the foe:
To you from failing hands we throw
The torch; be yours to hold it high.
If ye break faith with us who die
We shall not sleep, though poppies grow
In Flanders fields.

– John McCrae