Early in the morning of Monday May 15, we drove from the SKP park in Chimacum to the Black Ball Ferry Landing in Port Angeles, Washington. We were giddy with excitement and anticipation of the adventure ahead!
Ready to be a Canada cat!
From the aft deck of the ferry we waved goodbye to the lower 48 – see you in September……
It’s official!
The 90 minute voyage to Canada was uneventful, and we mentally crosschecked ourselves that we had everything we needed for the border crossing after we disembarked. The agent was quite chatty at first, really admiring our truck and camper but was then a little confused by our souvenir Alaska license plate on the front. He switched gears and asked different questions when he realized we were from Florida. “Are there any firearms in this vehicle?” No. “Have there ever been any firearms in this vehicle?” No. For a few seconds we were thinking we’d be sent to the “other” line where a much more thorough inspection occurs, but were given our passports and told to enjoy our travels. Whew! Later we admitted to each other we had both been thinking that in its former life in West by God Virginia we could envision a gun rack and long guns in the back window of Marvin, but we personally didn’t have anything except bear spray.
We drove to Butchart Gardens in Victoria where the legendary gardens were in full spring bloom and I had made us reservations (waaay back on February 15th!) for High Tea in the Dining Room. What a way to celebrate!
We feel right at home here 😀
After a stop at Walmart to re-provision those supplies we couldn’t bring across the border, we went to our campsite at Goldstream Provincial Park nearby. I had looked at photos and chosen all the campsites for their view and amenities back in January so it is fun to drive up to each park and see how well I did!
The next day, Tuesday, we drove up the eastern coast of Vancouver Island to Nanaimo, where we stopped at Bocca cafe for some Nanaimo bars. These no bake bars are a signature delicacy of the area, so much so that there is a driving “trail” of bakeries so you can sample all the varieties. We ate ours at the Harborfront near the Nanaimo sign (pronounced nah NEYE moe)
We hiked to lovely nearby Ammonite falls, which became a theme as the Island has so many beautiful waterfall hikes
We stayed at Rathtrevor Provincial Park on the beach for several days while in Nanaimo.
Wednesday we hiked to Englishman River Falls which is the deepest gorge waterfall in Canada.
We drove to Cathedral Grove for a peaceful stroll on boardwalks through lush old growth forest.
Impressive Little Qualicum River Falls rounded out our exploring for the day
The Old Country Market is a well known stop because of the goats who live on the roof! (Well, that and nearby Coombs ice cream as a treat)
Thursday we had plans for more hiking in the area that started with a trail to the Abyss, which is a deep crack in the rocky hillside.
Then, on the way down the “bust” part happened.
A tree root caught in the toe tip of my shoe and held my foot so I fell forward onto an unforgiving granite outcropping. (I’ll never hike without my hiking poles again!)
The very professional and very pleasant Canadian ER doctor was delighted that I didn’t have a concussion or broken teeth (same). I did end up with a cut over my right eyebrow where my sunglass rim dug in, and in breaking my fall with my arms I broke them – both. One of the bones in my right arm was broken near the elbow and one of the bones my left arm was broken near the wrist. The orthopedic surgeon felt both could be managed successfully without surgery which was a relief. So I ended the day sporting stitches over my right eyebrow, a cool blue fiberglass wrist cast on my left arm and a shoulder brace on my right arm —it’s a great look to start a trip with!
Of course we’re continuing on our Alaska adventure, with modifications, but the fun in Nanaimo is finished and we’ll be moving on tomorrow. I’m really disappointed in myself for getting injured, but the real casualty casualty here is Larry. After months of preparation he deserved fun and relaxation. Instead his work load doubled as now he does everything! He has been my real hero, very supportive and caring without a single complaint or word of frustration about the current circumstances. I’m a very very lucky lady!!
Adventure and adversity go hand in hand. – Boss of the Swamp
The Alaska Milepost had this recipe for the very popular Nanaimo Bars in case that picture of them made you want to try one 😋
On Friday, May 19, we left Nanaimo and drove 80 miles north from Rathtrevor Beach to Campbell River. Along the way we stopped at Qualicum Beach, which at low tide was a shallow sandy beach just perfect for a sunny morning stroll at the start of the long Victoria Day weekend. Victoria Day is the official start of summer in Canada, much like Memorial Day is for the United States.
Larry loved the float plane that marked the city entrance to Campbell River.
It was fun walk the wharf and the docks of the busy and picturesque marinas where we could admire the boats and the clear blue water.
We ate at Dockside Fish and Chips overlooking one of the marinas. The fries were flavorful garlic Parmesan and the fish was flaky, tender, hot and not at all greasy. We enjoyed it so much that we tried to go back at the end of our stay for a repeat, but they were closed on the holiday.
This was our campsite at Elk Falls Provincial Park. The site I chose from online reservations was right on the stream, and on arrival it was just as lovely as I had hoped. Since we left each day to go exploring, we told our neighbors across the way that they and their children were welcome to play in our site while we were gone.
We visited the Museum of Campbell River, and though there was much to see, I was intrigued by the design of this chair in their replica of a log cabin interior. Four pieces of wood and 10 screws or nails—sturdy, simple and easy to disassemble if needed. Ingenious.
It was too early in the summer for the salmon run at the Quinsam River Salmon Hatchery, but the workers were busy catching and counting some of the young salmon smolts heading downstream to grow up in the ocean.
We had planned a whale watch and kayak tour for Sunday of the long weekend, but the company cancelled due to high winds creating large wind waves and difficult kayaking conditions. Instead, we drove inland to Strathcona Provincial Park. This park is a hidden gem, with beautiful scenery and short day hikes to (what else) waterfalls.
Myra Falls was the furthest away on our drive, so we went there first. The logs to the right of the waterfall are caught in an eddy and just keep circling in the foamy current.
Such beautiful roadside scenery!
Lupin Falls was next, where we met a friendly local who had forty of her family members joining her that weekend to celebrate her birthday. The kids and dogs in the group especially enjoyed the pool at the base of the falls.
The last stop of the day was Lady Falls—sorry, I wasn’t going to pose by that sign 😆. You couldn’t get close to these falls, but the volume of water and enclosing rock walls made for a refreshing cool mist, as well as some rainbows.
On Monday, we took the trail out to the Elk Falls Suspension Bridge and Falls which were very near our campground. There is a pretty good view of the falls from the suspension bridge.
We spent several hours at the Maritime Heritage Centre, which is small but packed with exhibits. Community members painstakingly restored this fishing vessel, the likes of which used to grace the Canadian five dollar bill.
Harold, one of the volunteer docents, was the reason we stayed so long while he shared his extensive knowledge of Campbell River history. He is also an expert model ship builder and below is just one of several of the model ships he loaned the museum for display. What a treat!
We rounded out the holiday weekend with more delicious fish and chips, this time at Dick’s Fish and Chips across from the harbor.
Vancouver Island is a natural beauty, and with summer now officially started, I’m glad we have reservations to stay in their lovely provincial parks. The last few days have been a challenge, but we feel we made the right decision to continue on our adventure instead of returning to the states.
“Life is like a bicycle. To keep your balance you must keep moving.”
On Tuesday, May 23, we left Campbell River and headed 164 miles to Tofino, which is on the west coast of Vancouver Island. When I made this itinerary, I did not fully understand the topography of Vancouver Island. There is a spine, or ridge of mountains, that runs up the center of the island and makes for a very scenic drive across the island. Scenic here can also be read as curving, twisting, with steep inclines and declines, narrow roads, blind corners, and wow there isn’t room for the semi and us on this turn. Thankfully Larry is a great driver!
First we drove south on the east coast back towards Nanaimo to pick up the Pacific Rim Highway at Coombs. We passed Cathedral Grove that we had visited on May 17 before stopping for a place called Hole in the Wall. We parked on the narrow road shoulder and found the trailhead for a short hike to where a creek now runs through a hole blasted in volcanic rock for a long-removed water pipeline. It can be busy but on this morning we had it to ourselves.
The next break in our drive was a stop at Sproat Lake Provincial Park to see one of the best panels of petroglyphs in British Columbia. It was more of a stroll to view the Petroglyphs, and very surprising to compare how much they have faded in comparison to the informational sign about them with a picture from 1970’s.
We completed the “scenic” drive at Wickaninnish Beach on the west coast near the visitor center of the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve. On our beach walk there we saw our first surfers – this is where Canada goes to hang ten!
The Rain Forest Figure 8 trail was on the way to our campground, so we enjoyed this walk completely on boardwalk-with lots and lots of stairs-through the lush vegetation.
I had booked us a site very close to the beach at Surf Grove campground in Tofino, so we could enjoy walks on the beach and long sunsets.
Wednesday morning we carefully timed our walk on Chesterman beach to see the tide pools. We had read that difference between low tide and high tide on these long shallow beaches made a huge difference in where you could walk. There were plenty of starfish and sea anemone to see, and even an island you could only reach at low tide.
This little guy is a long way from shore!
Afterwards, we had delicious seafood tacos at TacoFino food truck with the guava soda as a nice taste contrast.
We spent time in the afternoon talking to some tours we had booked for June and July. We decided to change the paddle whitewater rafting in Denali for an oar trip so I wouldn’t have to paddle (July 1 update-the paddle trip I had originally booked was canceled due to high waters making rapids being too dangerous so we ended up being on the only trip available anyway – Yay!). The ice climbing adventure on the glacier will have to be for Larry only (this trip anyway!) but they’ll take pictures for me. Thursday we hiked the Wild Pacific Trail Lighthouse loop in the beautiful morning light. There were sweeping views of the Pacific and clear blue skies for the Amphitrite lighthouse vista.
We then made sure to get to Florencia Bay at low tide for another lovely beach walk.
Sunset back at our campground was the perfect time for Larry to capture some “endless summer” photos of people on the beach! He even shared their photos with two very appreciative surfers.
It was the best ending to our stay in Tofino.
“Life is a lot like surfing… When you get caught in the impact zone, you’ve got to just get back up. Because you never know what may be over the next wave.” – Bethany Hamilton, professional surfer and shark attack survivor
On Friday, May 26, we left Tofino, drove east across the island on the scenic Pacific Rim highway again, around the southern tip of the island and back up the west coast to French Beach Park. Again, not my original plan but after one scenic drive we decided not to take another longer scenic drive back across the island. There really aren’t many roads that go across the island because of the mountainous terrain. Do we get extra points for circumnavigating the island perimeter?
It was about a six hour drive but I did want to see Jordan River and Port Renfrew area which face the Juan De Fuca straits. After getting set up in our site we walked down the hill to the beach, which reminded me very much of San Juan Island beaches I visited as a child. It is interesting how smells, sights, or sounds can be so strongly linked to our memories.
There is a steep hill behind the wooden fence at the back of our campsite, and a recurring theme of a large rock in the middle of the site. The placement of the rock seems random so I’m not sure if it’s there to protect the picnic table or some other structure, prevent driving off the RV area, or simply as a tripping hazard.
This is such a cute way to light up the outhouse! Just a string of battery operated LED lights stuck into the bottom of small red solo cups and strung up from opposite walls. Turn them on in the evening and off in the morning to save the batteries.
The host was quick to tell us that the campground had almost ripe salmon berries everywhere and recent bear visits, though none occurred during our visit.
The next day we drove up to Port Renfrew to hike the Botanical Beach loop trail. Just before we arrived at the trailhead parking lot we saw our first bear of the trip! The large black bear was in full view on the road but reluctantly moved into the tall roadside brush. (That look clearly says “Really?”)
The ranger at the trailhead was not surprised and chuckled that they were as plentiful as robins in spring. In fact, there was one down on part of the beach hike and we should give it space to do what bears do on the beach. That particular black bear had moved along by the time we reached the beach so I cannot report on what exactly it is bears do on the beach. We did enjoy our hike there along the coastal forest with low tide beach exploration.
On Sunday we had breakfast at the very popular Shirley Delicious just around the corner from our campground. The hike to Sheringham Point lighthouse started a short drive away. Score–food and fun without much driving for Larry!
Monday was our last day on Vancouver Island and we used it to get ready to cross on the ferry from Duke Point terminal in Nanaimo to the Tsawwassen ferry terminal in Vancouver. Translation-drive back to Nanaimo, fuel up RAM, do laundry and other chores. Tuesday, May 30, we boarded the ferry and waved goodbye to Vancouver Island.
Some of the adventure so far has been unexpected, but we are so glad we began our trek to Alaska by exploring this part of beautiful British Columbia!
In Vancouver we made a short grocery stop and then had lunch at the Lansdowne Centre Mall in Richmond. A friendly patron made a menu suggestion that was delicious.
Eating out gives Larry a break from cooking, though he’s doing a great job! My right arm comes out of the sling tomorrow but I’m only supposed to do range of motion exercises for the next couple of weeks and not actually use it. I will say that climbing in and out of the cab-over bed of the truck camper without using arms has been a good core work out 😁
As we drove out of Vancouver up the Sea to Sky Highway we are excited to start this next section of our trip!
May 29 was Memorial Day in the United States. During the first World War, a Canadian military surgeon wrote the poem recognized worldwide as a tribute to those who gave their lives in defense of their country. This is why the American Legion chose the poppy pins to support the future of veterans, active-duty military personnel and their families with medical and financial needs.
In Flanders Fields
In Flanders fields the poppies blow Between the crosses, row on row, That mark our place; and in the sky The larks, still bravely singing, fly Scarce heard amid the guns below.
We are the Dead. Short days ago We lived, felt dawn, saw sunset glow, Loved and were loved, and now we lie, In Flanders fields.
Take up our quarrel with the foe: To you from failing hands we throw The torch; be yours to hold it high. If ye break faith with us who die We shall not sleep, though poppies grow In Flanders fields.
April 1, 2023 April Fools, Flowers and Showers (all kinds)
April first found us traveling north through Oatman, Arizona, which is famous for their wild burros, but this year is also experiencing a bit of a “super bloom” of poppies from the wet fall and winter.
We enjoyed being tourists for a day, eating a buffalo burger at the Oatman Hotel, papering their wall with our personalized dollar bill, and getting a picture with one of their not-very-wild burros!
Spring weather wasn’t exactly on the forecast, and actually we spent most of April chasing winter with April showers of rain, sleet and snow! We stopped for a few days in Kingman, Arizona to stay out of weather as well as just savor the fact that we were on the road again. Larry installed the chill chaser on our a/c so we now have another option to stay warm, and we used it often this month. There was some sightseeing…
but the absolute best thing that happened on our stop was to reconnect with Dave and Cindy of the Albino Rhino! (AlbinoRhino at mytripjournal.com). Our last visit with them was in 2014 when they were in Florida and we talked with them about RV full-timing. They’re a great couple who have been on the road for 14 years now in a truck camper and we had such a fun time catching up! We hope to see them again this fall in the Grand Tetons on our way back from Alaska. Continuing north, our journey stopped at Lake Mead and then on to Salt Lake City where it snowed on us. We celebrated Easter in the small town of Heyburn, Idaho where they have a city campground and park right on the river. Families came to have Easter Egg hunts and the air was full of children’s laughter.
Our next stop was in the town of Ketchum, Idaho to see Brent Hansen of Ski-Tek Hansen Orthotics. Several years ago we befriended a photographer in the Grand Tetons who wound up being the retired senior ranger for the Sawtooth Mountain range. He told us that Brent had taken good care of his feet and kept him hiking all these years. Last year, I had Brent make some orthotics for me which have made a huge difference in my foot neuromas. This year it was Larry’s turn to get orthotics so we can both keep hogging fun adventures wherever we roam.
Thanks, Brent, and all your team!
Pumpernickel post-holing in snow near Ketchum, Idaho (I’m a Florida cat, Hello!)
We boondocked near here overnight and stayed toasty warm in spite of the weather.
A bit further south near Jerome, Idaho we toured the Minidoka Japanese Internment Camp National Historic Site from WW2. It was too early in the season for tours or the visitor center being open, so we watched the NPS park video online before we went which was very helpful in understanding the events of that time. As we walked the loop trail learning from the exhibits and buildings, I chanced upon a beautiful blue swirl marble lying almost hidden in the grass. We held it and imagined the lives of the children who had played with it, and the stories it could tell before replacing back where it could continue to bear witness to history.
We had our teeth cleaned at Canyon Falls Dental in Jerome where we had had an excellent experience the year before. In spite of difficulties finding care, we stay on top of getting our teeth cleaned twice a year, and this office does a wonderful job (special thanks to Tanner!). Our plan from there was to head to Boise to pick up some Amazon packages and then keep going, but all that changed when we noticed a fellow RVer flashing their headlights at us as we passed them. Never a good thing! Upon pulling over and inspecting the rig, Larry saw that one of the roof latches had pulled away and was missing so that the front passenger side roof was lifting up as we drove. Yikes!
Thankfully, we were able to temporarily strap it closed and drive on backroads to a WalMart a few miles away where we bought more supplies and strapped the roof closed more securely (you can see what the latch is supposed to look like on the photo below which shows the drivers side)
This held the roof shut until we drove to a Camping World near Boise, Idaho where we were able to get what we needed for a repair and spend the night as Good Sam members. Yep, Life in a RV is worry free—April Fools! You just never know when you are going to join the not-so-exclusive club of RVs rolling down the road with some part of the rig taped or strapped down, pieces trying to fly away or items left deployed that should have been retracted before driving. Ok, so the last one is mostly avoidable with a departure checklist—like pre-flighting an airplane—but life happens sometimes.
Not all suprises were unpleasant as Lucky Larry found this fluttering on the roadside at one of our multiple stops for repair supplies and strap checks. 🍀
All fixed up, we continued our travels to eastern Oregon where I’d found a part of the Lewis and Clark trail we had not visited. Jean Baptiste Charbonneau was born to Sacajawea of the Corp of Discovery on the famous expedition. His very well-done and respectful gravesite is down a quiet dirt road near Jordan Valley, Oregon.
One of the things we like best about our life on the road is the opportunity to follow history and experience in person locations we’ve read about. As we drove west in 2019, we had listened to the book “Dauntless Courage” about the Lewis and Clark Expedition, and visited spots along the route then. It give us goosebumps to be somewhere like this and imagine the life and character of those who discovered and shaped this country.
That evening we boondocked at a beautiful spot nearby on Antelope Reservoir.
To be able to camp like THIS is what we worked so hard for all of February and March!
Finally! (Finalleeeeeeee!) Roberta – Odd Life Crafting So, you really have to go to their you tube channel and hear her say this in her very cute accent!
A friend asked for suggestions on a Utah Spring Break, and Larry thought I should share what I wrote.
You are going to have a blast! I’ll give you some specifics from our visits, but first a few general thoughts: 1. Start early. Like, before sunrise to get where you want to go before it is hot and crowded. Pack breakfast stuff to eat on the road. Pack lots of snacks to eat when you get to where you want to go, the saltier and more caloric the better as no one is their best hangry, ask Larry how he knows to pack an extra snack for me 😉. You can go out to lunch in town later while everyone else is hiking and mobbing the scenic views, plus you’ll be cooler inside. 2. Hydrate. Take lots of water, electrolyte mixes, ice tea or whatever reviving beverage you enjoy. If you’ve been to the desert, you remember how it sucks water out of you rapidly and leaves you drained with no energy, grumpy (or worse, hospitalized). 3. Slow down. So, I used to look at the high points of a destination and had to do them. ALL OF THEM. I’ve learned to leave something for another visit and pick a few of the places that are must sees—for me. No matter what you do, someone hearing about your trip will tell you that you “missed” some really cool spot. It is your vacation, enjoy it, do what you want–but maybe not all that you want to do.
For Arches, the place everyone goes is Delicate Arch. It is beautiful, and it really glows at sunset. Lots of people know this so it is extra busy then, but there is plenty of room. If you do sunset make sure to take a wind breaker as it gets cool after the sun goes down and headlamps or a flashlight as the hike back will be in the dark. Whenever you go, take snacks and refreshments and sit there awhile and enjoy it. So many people come, take the pix and leave, but it is fun to watch the light change, birds soar, people get their “gram” and just soak up the fact that you. are. there. If you pack too many snacks (not sure if that’s possible) you can always offer extras to some parent whose child of whatever age is having a meltdown, or your neighbor photographer.
Fiery Furnace is a wonderful maze with great history. Take time to absorb it, stop for a snack somewhere in there and imagine outlaws hiding out, or consider how it was a spiritual place for early peoples. The Old West is called that because it has an old feel to it, if you stop and wait. Other than that, there is a drive with multiple stops, again best done early for heat, prettiest light and crowds. When we went with the kids, we did a rappelling adventure which they still talk about.
For Canyonlands, there is an iconic arch, Mesa Arch, that everyone goes to for sunrise pictures. What no one tells you is that there are at least 100 other photographers squeezing into the same small space who all got there in the dark hoping for the same shot. It’s fun if you know what to expect, are dressed for the cool morning, and have a good attitude. The light is still pretty just after sunrise, and the serious photographers all leave.
Me taking a picture of Larry taking a picture
We reserved an overnight pass and took our Jeep on the White Rim drive which can be done in one very full day, or just do part of it. Jeep or ATV rentals are available and the road isn’t too technical, or rental companies can suggest other trips. Moab in general is an off-road paradise.
See how the light gets washed out midday?
In Capitol Reef, make sure you have pies and ice cream if the Gifford Farmhouse is open. No calories, I promise, and there are picnic tables out front, or go back up the street a little bit to a bigger picnic area where the deer usually hang out. There is a drive called Looping the Fold which can take most of the day but is very pretty, has this great switchback, and is informative—if you do it buy the little booklet on it at the visitor center. You can go halfway and turn around at the switchback so you get to go up and down the switchback, which I would suggest if you are going to take Scenic Byway 12 later. Boulder is on the back part of the “loop” on the 12 where you’ll find the small but very informative Anasazi State Park Museum, and usually a taco truck out front whose food was spendy but good. There are a bunch of hikes in Capitol Reef, but Our Favorite Hike of the park was to Cassidy Arch. Go early, enjoy the solitude, and this arch is 50 feet wide so you can stand and jump on it if you want for a nice pix.
Yeah, that’s Larry😍! Isn’t morning light magical?
Escalante and Scenic Byway 12 is a treasure. The drive is gobsmackingly beautiful. Stunning, phenomenal, fantastic…anything, anything but the cliche “amazing.” I challenge you not to use that word the whole trip and come up with others.
From Capitol Reef, take Scenic Byway 12, passing Boulder and the museum, to Lower Calf Creek Falls which is a really cool hike out to a hidden waterfall. Pick up the brochure at the trailhead as there are some spots to see that are numbered on the hike. We started at first light and had the falls to ourselves for 45 minutes—like a cathedral in its beauty and peace that we were whispering as we often do. A wild turkey strolled by us as we ate a picnic (starting to get a food theme here yet?). It is only a two mile hike but on the way out we counted 60 hikers coming in before we just stopped counting. No way they were going to have the same experience. There is a nearby coffee house, Kiva Koffeehouse, that everyone raves about, especially the view (next time….)
My mouth is full of food
If you are not claustrophobic and up for an awesome one-of-a-kind, no one you know will have done this (except us) adventure, Spooky and Peek-a-boo slot canyons are the BEST slot canyons we have ever hiked. You can look videos of them up on YouTube, or watch mine if it loads for you. The hikes are on a side trip gravel road well worth the drive, which any car should be able to do. Go early, again, we had the whole place to ourselves until on the way out, but it could be fun with people, too. Epic. Just. Go.
On the Byway, stop in at the Escalante Heritage Center just before Escalante to watch an inspiring historic film that recreates how the Mormons settled this area. After seeing it we decided next time we’re going to drive down to Hole in the Rock in Glen Canyon National Recreation Area (wanted to do the slot canyons first, and leave something for another trip, right?)
Mid-April found us leaving eastern Oregon and traveling West on our way to the coast. We drove through the Mather National Forest to the Thomas Condon Paleontology Center at the Sheep Ranch Unit of the John Day Fossil Beds National Monument. At a fuel stop in John Day (the town), the fuel attendant noticed our Florida license plate and she was from a small town very close to where Larry and I both grew up—it is a small world! The John Day Fossil beds are actually named after a man who was ambushed long ago and all his belongings were stolen, including his clothes, which made his rescue so noteworthy that the area was named after him 😂. Oregon actually has a very large layer of fossil deposits and thankfully this particular area has been preserved for study and future enjoyment. At the Paleontology Center we learned that these fossils were about the age of mammals (no dinosaurs here) and they are still learning so much about who was here and where they went. Evidently rhinos and camels originated in North America and migrated across the Asia land bridge where they thrived while their counterparts here went extinct. The pronghorn antelope originated here alongside the cheetah, who left for Asia and its ancestors here disappeared while the pronghorn stayed and multiplied. This explains why the pronghorn is 25mph faster than the timberwolf who is the fastest carnivore in North America. Fascinating!
We also visited the Gant ranch where the original family homestead and ranch is still available for tours.
This was the road up to the forest campground we’d planned to stay at….um, no.
Instead, we boondocked at a BLM site in a small meadow alongside a creek near the Painted Hills section of the National Monument where Larry used the evening to run the wire so we can use the Starlink once it is installed on the roof and replaced the digital Ute door lock that wasn’t unlocking. He never stops working! That’s our Starlink deployed on the ground, where none of the free range cattle came by to inspect it overnight.
Although this little calf, his mama and the rest of the herd were in the road just around the corner from our campsite!
The next morning we had the hills to ourselves to explore before bad weather moved in and we landed at a campground in Bend, Oregon. We had planned to stay at Tumalo State Park, but with our (lifetime) Passport America discount the resort was actually less expensive and more appealing in bad weather. We parked our little truck camper on the brick paver sites nestled between the half million dollar Dutch Stars, Entegras and Newmars, and enjoyed the extra amenities like a sauna, hot tub, exercise room, lounge with free coffee and popcorn—yeah, we bougie. It snowed and rained, was cloudy and miserable but we used the time to relax and work. Larry installed the See Level tank monitors on the fresh and grey tanks, hung new towel rods and refitted the LP attachments, among other things.
The pass through the mountains never got less snowy, so when we left we drove the 6 hour route through the Columbia River Gorge to Silver Falls State Park. The drive was pretty and we stopped to make lunch at The Hook, a spit of land on the Columbia River where folks often wind and kite surf. It was so much fun to just stop, pop up the camper and enjoy the view!
Larry had asked about Spring festivals in Oregon so I found the very popular Wooden Shoe Tulip Festival in Woodburn near Silver Falls State Park. This spring has been wetter and colder than normal so the tulips are a little late in blooming. For once the weather worked to our advantage as we got to see them just before peak bloom. Very slick clay-like soil made up the fields and roads, so we almost got the camper stuck while parking—thank you four wheel drive! We enjoyed taking pictures and being around all the people celebrating spring. Below are some of our Tulip Festival photos and my philosophical musings.
Enjoy!
4WD is for when 2WD got you in trouble
-OR-
If you’ve lost traction from full treads slow down and find your strength
Take the usual shots
But be open to unexpected beauty
Bloom on your own schedule
Be Yourself
(Honestly everyone who saw me taking this picture did likewise)
We grow old because we stop playing
Resistance means an opportunity to soar
😍
Love is that to life what wind is to a windmill. -Kari Shams
We stayed at Silver Falls State Park because the Tulip Festival was nearby but also because it is called the Crown Jewel” of the Oregon State Park system. The Trail of Ten Falls is well known for the number of gorgeous falls you can walk behind. Parts of the trail were almost impassably slick and muddy due to all the recent rain, but we liked Upper and Lower South Falls best, both of which have huge walkways behind them. Be prepared to get wet!
Cape Lookout State Park was our next campground, with a windy and rainy walk on the beach, but we were back at the Pacific Ocean!
“I must go down to the seas again, for the call of the running tide Is a wild call and a clear call that may not be denied; And all I ask is a windy day with the white clouds flying, And the flung spray and the blown spume, and the sea-gulls crying.” -Sea Fever by John Masefield
Another reason we camped here was to visit Tillamook Cheese nearby that we had missed on our trip down the West Coast in 2019.
The factory floor at work was interesting to watch before we took the tour and then sampled so much cheese we barely had enough room for ice cream. (We managed!)
The next drive up the coast was on a much prettier day!
Fort Stevens State Park was where we landed at the day’s end, lured by more beach access, history including WW2 and Lewis and Clark, and a spring festival. Trifecta! Spring seemed to have mostly arrived on the coast by late April so we had some lovely weather. On the beach, we enjoyed morning walks and photos with the Peter Iredale wreck from 1906 that is ever so slowly being claimed by the sea.
Below are details from the Oregon State Park brochure.
“I must go down to the sea again, to the lonely sea and the sky And all I ask is a tall ship and a star to steer her by; And the wheel’s kick and the wind’s song and the white sail’s shaking, And a grey mist on the sea’s face and a grey dawn breaking.” -Sea Fever by John Masefield
The historic area from Fort Stevens has been well preserved and we enjoyed a self guided walk one morning followed by a picnic lunch on the Oregon side of the Columbia River’s Pacific entrance watching the big and little ships come in. It was clear why the Fort was so strategic to protect the waterway access to the Columbia River from the Civil War to WW2. In 1942 a lone Japanese sub lobbed shells at the battery, making it the first time a mainland military fort had been fired on by an enemy since the war of 1812. The Army did not return fire lest they give away their position and defenses. The Japanese sub commander returned after the war to apologize and commented that they would never have fired on the fort if they knew all of the artillery pointed at them!
The Lewis and Clark expedition spent the winter of 1805 at nearby Fort Clatsop, which has been reconstructed according to drawings and writings in their journals. The day we were there a school group was on a field trip learning frontier skills—we needed to declare ourselves and intentions to the youthful fort “guards” to go inside! The adult volunteers were kind enough to let these two old kids practice making tallow candles and lighting a fire with flint and steel. What fun!
On a gorgeous day we drove up the very steep hill to the Astoria Column. Astoria, Oregon is often called little San Francisco because of the similar appearance of the homes and streets. We climbed to top of the tower, whose hand painted images on the spiral frieze commemorate the history of the Pacific Northwest, and launched little gliders we had purchased at the gift store below. Afterwards we retrieved them from where we saw them land and passed them on to other visitors to enjoy. We had a Dutch Bros coffee, enjoyed the view, and chatted for awhile with other sightseers.
I had purchased tickets for the Astoria Crab, Seafood and Wine Festival (we think the wine part should be listed first as there were lots of local winery booths) to continue celebrating Spring. Shuttles ran from the campground to the festival, making transportation easy. We ate “clowns” which are a NorthWest version of lobster rolls but with crab and cheese—delicious! We also purchased smoked salmon dip and saved some for a picnic as we drove up the 101 the next day.
Who is the clown now? On our drive from Astoria, Oregon to Potlatch, Washington we stopped briefly at the Dismal Nitch. The Corps of Discovery had been stranded there for 6 days due to bad weather and we agree it was aptly named. It must have been so frustrating for Lewis and Clark to be able to hear the ocean after their long journey but not be able to get there! April’s last stop was at a delightful campground, the Waterfront At Potlatch, on the Hood Canal in Washington State. We didn’t, but we could have spent a week here watching the tide change, the seals fish, and the boats glide by! Such a very peaceful and a wonderful way to end the month and our journey from Arizona to Washington.
“I must go down to the seas again, to the vagrant gypsy life, To the gull’s way and the whale’s way where the wind’s like a whetted knife; And all I ask is a merry tale from a laughing fellow-rover, And a quiet sleep and a sweet dream when the long trick’s over.” -Sea Fever by John Masefield
So this is how March started in the desert! Brrrrr!
Meet Ranger, our mascot who you may find in photos from time to time 😉
We continued on our work list, but March also marks our Nomad-a-versary, this time year #4 of being nomads. As a break from Alaska prep, we returned to our roots of finding fun things to do. Our first event was to go to Mescal Movie set nearby, which had just reopened and was being used again as a set for movies and commercials. It was fun to learn about all the classic western movies and TV shows that had been filmed here as well as imagine some of the iconic actors who walked these streets. Our guides re-enacted some scenes and were true western movie history buffs (talking about you here, Lt. Dan). Highly recommend!
Our second fun event was to take the Ladder Tour at Colossal Cave. There were eleven ladders, some narrow walkways and tight squeezes.
Four fingers for the fourth nomad-a-versary!
This photo was taken with a black light to show that some of the rocks glowed.
Our wonderful friends Marvin and Dee from Granbury Texas swung by in their travels to help us celebrate and I think they had more fun exploring the Benson area this winter than we did! Lingering over a great breakfast is a favorite morning ritual when we are together and they find the best spots.
Benson is a cute little town with fun murals on many of the buildings.
Ah, back to work, time is ticking! We went through the Jeep and RV, deep cleaned the interiors and moved out items we’d need for Alaska. Larry made orders and more orders as he prepared for the solar, battery and electric upgrade mid-March. I made ferry reservations, bought Canada Parks passes, booked tours in Fairbanks and Homer as well as continuing plans for hikes, camping and boondock spots and classic Alaska eats. The documents for the Ram registration in Florida finally came in, and we eventually did get our Florida plates after sending, returning and resending paperwork to make sure both our names were on the registration. Just a note here to say that we’ve found Pirate Ship is a great way to send packages and mail with a decent discount. Their customer service and general attitude is top notch as well.
Larry spent a week on the high desert plateau east of St Johns, Arizona with our friends the Gloneks. Eddie is a wizard on solar and electrical upgrades who has helped us in the past with our Coachman, and he lives totally off grid with his wife and daughter. The weather was unhelpful, with sleet, snow, fierce winds and tons of Juniper pollen to top things off! However, he and Larry worked diligently to get us ready to be off grid in Alaska.
The batteries that came with the Ute were ok, but…
These two Big Beard batteries are 560 amp hrs /6.7 kWh of Lithium power!
Upgraded the two solar panels to four with 800 watts total.
More electrical outlets in convenient spots—this one is for our dc heated mattress pad which we love.
3000w inverter – install is beauty and elegant simplicity with very little space to work with! They did more, of course, than was on their list and that I could mention here.
When Larry got back we took a short jaunt together to visit our daughter, son-in-law and granddaughter. It is so much fun to watch their future unfold knowing their faith in God and love for each other.
The last bit of March was true madness finishing up the must-do’s on the list, especially for getting the RV and Jeep ready for storage.
RV differential fluid change, but also battery disconnect and trickle charger on the Jeep, wash and wax both vehicles…see February’s list. It got done.
And finally we were finishing up the last packing and dropping off our home of four years at the NIRVC in Surprise.
Larry even figured out how to store the bikes inside the RV.
They’re both in there, somewhere! (Actually at the back of the first row to the left)
One last hug goodbye!
March is over and here we are in Congress, Arizona on the 31st.
The adventures continue and the journey to Alaska begins!
“The size of your dreams must always exceed your current capacity to achieve them. If your dreams do not scare you, they are not big enough” -Ellen Johnson Sirleaf 24th president of Liberia, first female head of state in Africa Nobel Peace Prize recipient. March is Women’s History Month.
Drinking from the Firehose – or – when downsizing dramatically upsizes your work list
If Valentines Day makes February the month of love, we both agree we fell in love with our beautiful red truck. The more we drove it and got acquainted with all its features, we realized that it must have been somebody’s dream truck and they had taken very good care of it. It became our dream truck and we named it Marvin after a dear friend who had a red truck he also adored. We made a list of upgrades and projects to do inside and outside Marvin and the Ute, then categorized each task on a spreadsheet by priority and days to be accomplished. No surprise on Larry’s organization skills here! Our plan is to start heading North by the end of March so that gives us about 8 weeks—GO!
Ute Interior Projects Change out Maxx air fan over bed to temperature sensor controlled Install 110 outlet near bed for heated mattress pad Install 110 outlet in upper cabinet for microwave Install 110 outlet in electric box for outdoor cooking Install 300W inverter Get small 800 watt microwave to fit in bins over sink (in red?) Buy & Install soft start on air conditioner Buy & Install chill chaser (heat) on a/c Deep clean interior, vinyl, screens, windows, walls (product for vinyl) Clean and condition wood surfaces, cabinets Replace carbon monoxide sensor Replace LP/propane sensor Change out Solar charger controller Relocate Pizza stone from RV oven (measure to check fit) Relocate induction cooktop from RV (where to store?) Relocate GoVee temperature sensors But & Install See Level tank monitors for grey/fresh Replace LP tank monitor Purchase soft sided/storage bins for all upper cabinets Decide which table to take (larger one is lighter weight) Leave behind extra (long) bolster Investigate how rear tarp awning works – store? Febreeze and air out all cushions and bedding, twice Store sash lock, bathroom door lock, 2 crank handles for jacks Buy & install new water conserving shower head inside Vinegar soak outside shower head Buy nicer carpeting and install – keep old for during electrical install Get plastic finger floor mat for by entry door Replace carpet over battery/bed step Replace fire extinguisher? Lube and check screws on lift mechanism Remove/store all curtains Install Fridge defend on refrigerator? Buy & Install UV water filter under sink, hole in countertop for spigot Buy Rollup draining tray (thanks for the idea Zoe) Decide where, when to put USB charging ports Cellular booster relocate and install Data connection cabinet if possible
Ute Exterior Projects Ceramacoat all exterior Buy keys for fast gun locks Inspect and wash awning Check LP tank inspection requirements External low pressure connection on LP tank Replace rubber gasket on door stop LP door Lube/clean/paint Happy Jack bases Paint Happy Jack Frame Relocate 30-20 amp adapter and outlet tester Buy surge protector – internal or external Purchase cassette toilet treatment Check cassette toilet vent Get sisal, wash (multiple times plus vinegar soak & rinses!), air out, wrap around table leg pole for cat scratch post Check/caulk hole under rear cameras mount Replace door lock with number pad lock Replace no skid on bumper step Remove levels on rear, side Get Van Essential vent covers, modify for knob hole Buy top missing from Rocky Mount bike rack Paint screws license plate holder Buy drain hose for grey tank Clean up/paint shovel and axe Clean back of refrigerator Refinish plastic refrigerator vents Investigate water fitting under outside shower Flush water heater Disinfect water tanks Upgrade solar on roof Clean air conditioner vents/filters Refinish or replace Rotopax (have red, diesel is yellow) Get screws & handle for roof storage system Buy small ladder to open & close roof latches
RAM projects Get Florida registration and license plate Clay bar and Ceramacoat all exterior Tint windows Windshield protection Paint protection plastic Ceramacoat door handles Tires – rotate, balance Get lifetime rotate/balance from Discount Tire Buy/Install Centramatic discs for self balancing of tires Clean and polish running boards Ceramacoat mirrors Install LED headlight bulbs Replacement screws for drivers fender well Donut for space between rear window and Ute window Buy and install power rear sliding window Blackstone analysis engine, differential and transmission Replace K&M with regular filter But & Install more fuel filters Investigate wiper washer pressure Check wipers Replace fuel filters and buy spares Spare belt for engine (for Alaska) Check condition of batteries Review maintenance schedule history Make maintenance schedule spreadsheet Check Banks upgrade installation – Intake elbow, cold air intake, differential cover Get seat covers for front and rear seats Mount GPS Dash Cam – relocate from RV or Jeep, wiring to power New roof console with switch for power sliding window Clean interior Adjust attachments for rear seat to tilt/extra storage Cat bed for console/how to secure (sew on straps)
Get RV and Jeep ready for storage Decide area of US to store – Arizona or Oregon Tour Arizona options – Tucson & Surprise Jeep- Noise Change oil & blackstone analysis Wash and wax Ceramacoat top, other surfaces Deep clean Review contents and relocate Kayak paddles Water shoes Air inflator electric Kakak bailer Kayak inflator Hiking poles and boots Trax? Or take our RV blocks for leveling Full gas tank with Stabil RV- Change oils Differential, engine, transmission Blackstone analysis Deep clean Polish wood Clean and conditions couch & dinette Clean Windows, screens, blinds Clean walls Bed area move all & clean Dust Defrost, clean out refrigerator and freezer Go through pantry – leave canned nonperishables only Full gas tank with Stabil How much propane to leave in? Flush tanks and put in treatment Black Grey Water tank – flush, how much water to leave Any treatment to water? Wash and wax exterior (2 days) Decide where to store RAM tailgate Buy new moving blanket to wrap Store RadRover bikes in RV Need covers for front wheels Need bracket to hold front tire arms Need tarp underneath Store Deb sewing table in RV Store SailRite in RV do maintenance first Go through all cabinets and decide what to take to Alaska Clothes Tools Kitchen Pet Toiletries/medicines Technology Office Outdoor gear Foods including dehydrated meals
This was our first list and it got loooonger after that. A few projects were quick fixes but almost all required research, sourcing, ordering and installing (and finding who to install if Larry couldn’t). Trevor, our Jeep, must have been annoyed at not being prominent on the list so started a squeaking noise that ended up being a U Joint. The location of the offending joint made it difficult to get grease in without replacement, but Larry finally got enough in to do the job until we return in the fall. A tiny rock chip in Trevor’s windshield expanded and contracted with the changing desert temperatures to span the height of the glass, without us even driving it—another project for fall.
After some phone calls and research on Larry’s part, we decided on the National Indoor RV Storage for the Jeep and Coachman while we are in Alaska. On day trips to Tucson and Surprise we toured both facilities, which were similarly priced, but decided on the Surprise location for 2023. I think the tipping point for me was that they had several camp spots out front where we could stay for a night or two while switching out from one rig to another and a last chance to be sure we had what we needed from the Coachman before leaving for Alaska.
Larry was happy that Marvin had the Banks intake elbow, cold air intake, and differential cover upgrades. With research and calls to Banks, one of their best installers was located near Phoenix. The review of the install was done in a day and we enjoyed talking to Tim about his homestead in Fairbanks. He’s a “desert rat” now and was very thorough in his review. Thanks, Tim—we’ll try to swing by your old place in Alaska this summer! Below is what the Banks Monster-Ram intake elbow looks like when purchased from Banks.
The Centramatic discs to self balance the RAM tires came in and Larry found a Discount Tire nearby to install them, rotate and balance the tires, and get the lifetime rotate and balance warrantee from them. It took several trips to get this accomplished, as the first install ended up in damaged rims that had to be replaced on the second install that de-rotated some tires which we corrected on a third trip (this time to a different store). They eventually made it right, and although it was a time drain, that’s just part of the challenge of being on the road.
In our original truck plans, we had wanted a power sliding rear window so that our cat, Pumpernickel, could pass between the RAM rear window into the Ute window and access the Ute with his litterbox while we were driving. Marvin didn’t have a power window, but Benson Autobody handily installed one that Larry had ordered (they had done a great job in January replacing the RV windshield that Mt Ranier roads had damaged last fall). Surprisingly, the wiring was even present from the rear window to the overhead console which was only missing the switch to have it work. Larry found a console on EBay that had the switch, swapped consoles —voila!—Marvin has a power sliding rear window. Very cool!
Larry also figured out that the reason the wiper pressure was low is that a rodent had chewed the tubing under the hood at some point. There were very clear teeth marks, but Larry made a swift repair and the washer pressure was restored.
Pumpernickel, settling in to his new sunbathing spot in the Ute, would like to note that the rodent damage occurred before his watch.
Because we love our new truck so much we decided to protect our investment on the Alaska trip. Larry found Car Kulture in Tucson where the RAM got window tint, paint protection film and ceramic coating. Bob Moses Ceramic Coating, also in Tucson, prepped and ceramic coated the Ute fiberglass and windows.
Looks beautiful and stays clean longer!
The end of February left us feeling like we had made a running start at the list, but with only March to get much accomplished before our April departure. In 2019 when we left Florida in the RV, we had had 2 years to prepare and then four years living in it to make more upgrades. We have to keep reminding ourselves that we only have 2 months this time but it doesn’t all have to get done before we hit the road again! Even Larry uncharacteristically recognized this as reality, to which I responded “who are you and what have you done with my husband?“ He loves it when I say that. ❤️
“Progress, not perfection” Denzel Washington in The Equalizer
