Category: Archives (Page 3 of 7)

Aliens, Cadillacs, Canyons, and an Eclipse

April 10, 2024

April Fool’s Day found us in Roswell, New Mexico. 👽

Yes, really.

We anticipated Roswell being a touristy little dirt roadside stop that we would practically drive through, but instead, we found ourselves in a busy, mid-size town. On the way into town, we stopped to get a classic photo (look closely on the left, and you’ll see the crop duster that conveniently photobombed us) and then took a 2-hour driving tour with Roswell UFO Tour.

It is always fun to watch crop dusters doing aerial acrobatics

The tour visited many sites in town while linking eyewitness accounts of events at each location, stepping back to a country with fresh memories of WW2 and new fears of Cold War enemies that fueled still undeciphered events. It was fascinating to hear the “familiar” story of the alien saucer crash in the town where media, military, government, and locals found themselves trying to do their patriotic duty to avoid hysteria while possibly being prodded by bribery and thinly veiled threats.

The tour started from a Lego Museum that had phenomenal displays!

We then toured the International UFO Museum, which was thought-provoking as well.

Though we came as indifferent travelers, we left as skeptics of the official “weather balloon” narrative 🤔.

We camped that night at the free Randolf Rampy city park in Tatum, New Mexico (how could we not camp somewhere with our truck camper on it?)

and drove 165 miles the next day to Buffalo Lake National Refuge, where we could camp for free with our Senior Park pass (I love that!). The Lake is now primarily wetlands, and we saw neither man nor beast during our afternoon and night there. We will say that the drive there passes feedlots in Hereford and Bovina, so there are some farm smells when the breeze blows from the right direction.

It was a peaceful stop, and the next day, we headed first to Cadillac Ranch with our spray paint to make our mark. We were surprised by how busy it was for early in the morning and how close to the road it was. Pictures we’d seen made it look like the Cadillacs were way out in the middle of some desolate field, but in fact, they were a short walk from a frontage road by busy Interstate 40. We had silly fun, loaned our paint to others, and helped them with their photos before going to our destination, Palo Duro Canyon.

We spent three days at the “Grand Canyon of Texas,” spending each night in a different campground for a variety of reasons. On the day we arrived, we hiked the Goodnight Peak via the CCC Trail, which gave us a panoramic view of the Canyon.

We camped in the Mesquite Loop for the night and left before dawn to start the Lighthouse trail hike just at first light.

The morning started cool at 37 degrees, and as the sun rose, a coyote family serenaded us with their morning song. The birds joined in, one of whom we caught on video, and we were impressed by the range and variety of notes.

We hiked in solitude and were able to scramble up the plateau of the iconic “Lighthouse” for some photos and a snack before other hikers arrived.

On the way back, the sun made it considerably warmer (almost 70 degrees!), and we were glad to have camelbacks full of electrolytes and water to keep us going. The desert has taught us that once you are thirsty, you are already dehydrated, so it’s essential to be proactive, take fluids, and drink often. We camped that night in the Juniper Loop, and the electricity to our site was out, which wasn’t a problem with our solar and batteries. However, one of the workers went out of his way to ensure that our site and the one next to it had power. We chatted about how warm it was for April, and he mentioned that later in the season, they would only have mornings for maintenance and would spend the afternoons doing hiker rescues. He felt the sorriest for children and pets who had issues with the heat because the adults didn’t bring or provide enough water.

On Friday, we hiked to a nearby cave and a loop through the valley before changing campgrounds to the Fortress Cliff Loop.

This wall texture is interesting!

The wind picked up considerably, causing our Jeep Tour to be canceled, so on Saturday, April 6, we drove 260 miles to Lake Arrowhead State Park near Wichita Falls, Texas. The weather went from quite windy to quite stormy, and we arrived at the park in a deluge where you could barely see the road before you. As we backed into our site, the sun shone just long enough to set up camp. The weather the next day was prettier.

On Sunday, we drove to stay with our good friends west of Dallas for the solar eclipse. We mainly wanted to enjoy their company as the forecast called for overcast skies on the eclipse day. Bluebonnets, the Texas State Flower, and Indian Paintbrush carpeted the roadside and fields on our drives to their favorite haunts.

Other friends joined us on Tuesday afternoon, and the weather lifted to bless us with a perfect eclipse view!

It was unbelievable how moths, dragonflies, and even a few mosquitos appeared as the sky grew dark, just as if it were evening, and how the birds sang again after the eclipse as if it were the dawn of a new day. Natural events like an eclipse must be very confusing to the daily order of life!

We and our friends are headed in opposite directions to about as far east and west from each other as you can go on this continent, so we promised to exchange travel stories until we meet again. Certainly one of the best benefits of travel is the wonderful friends you make!

“Time and good friends are two things that become more valuable the older we get.”

March 31, 2024

I will highlight the more exciting things that happened this month as we finished our preparations for the road, not the entire list.

The RAM truck gave us the dreaded “limp mode” message!

Larry researched the “limp mode” and discovered that one of the most straightforward issues to resolve is replacing the three-year-old batteries, as any low function could cause this error. We now had new batteries, one less thing to worry about when camping in the cold or remotely, but it didn’t fix the message. After more research, Larry replaced the Bank 1 Sensor 2 NOX sensor.

How fortunate we are that he is mechanical, as this would have been quite costly at the dealership (both in time and money). The job was far from easy, requiring removing and installing parts by feeling, not by sight. Success!!!

We replaced the heavy wood shower walls on the Ute with a curtain attached to the ceiling. It makes the Ute look bigger inside, too.

Of course, we took the RAM and Ute back for annual maintenance on their exterior treatments. Look at that shine 😀

I made more reservations and finished the baby blanket! Here is the original design

Here is my design

Our dear friends from Texas visited in the middle of the month, and we headed to Tucson together for the FMCA Rally. We drove together to Phoenix to meet some other friends at Organ Stop Pizza. We’ve been there before, but it is always spectacular as the organ rises beneath a platform for a show filled with lights, music, and special effects.

At the FMCA Rally, we attended various lectures, and Larry played some pickleball for the first time. He did really well!

Larry making more friends

We had Roadmaster check the installation on the steering stabilizer for the Coachman, which had unexpectedly snapped off at a weld. Larry (of course) had replaced it but wanted to verify it was in the correct position.

On the last evening of the Rally, a great band playing fine country western music entertained us all.

The last few weeks have whetted our appetite for travel, and when we returned to Benson, we quickly completed our projects, cleaned, packed, and prepped for our departure. We did our final fuel up of the Coachman and Jeep and stowed them safely at an indoor storage facility in Tucson.

While in Tucson, we put new tires on the RAM, losing some weight and road noise for the summer.

We had planned to stay in Benson for a leisurely departure in April—but we couldn’t wait! On Saturday morning, March 30, we began our summer adventure.

We stopped in Las Cruces, New Mexico, for lunch and a visit to their roadrunner statue made of recycled items.

Our first campsite was boondocking atop a hill overlooking Alamogordo, New Mexico. We could see White Sands National Park from there!

On Sunday, we drove up into Cloudcroft Canyon and did some hiking before spending the night at a free campsite in James Canyon. It is so exciting to be back on the road!!

Our stove in the Ute with a few of the memories we collected last summer

Now it’s ready for this summer!!

February 29, 2024

Despite February being rainy and cold, we persevered with our work list because the end of the month promised to be a fun adventure!

Larry continued his volunteering on the solar and long-range planning committees, which kept him busy in meetings doing research and analyzing data. Right up his alley! 

He discovered a leak in our new cargo trailer that may or may not be due to a poorly caulked exterior seam. He contacted the company, and they sent him more caulk plus screws that were already missing from the vent covers and a spare tire for his inconvenience! He got the area caulked quickly, and no more leaking occurred.  

He changed the fluids in front and rear differentials and transfer cases on the RAM truck and sent the samples to Blackstone Laboratories for analysis. They came back with no concerns, which is always comforting.  Below is normal wear on the magnet of the differential plug, then when clean!

He also changed the air filter and installed a Bluetooth charger on the dash for his iPhone. For security in our travels, he researched and purchased an impact alarm for the truck that also tracked its location and activated an alarm feature that was already present. It gives us some peace of mind as not everywhere we travel will be as remote and wild as Alaska.

The Ute received the bulk of the work, getting projects done as the weather allowed:

• Order new bathroom surround from Hallmark
• Relocate Pepwave w/Paddle antennas to Ute
• Research and purchase T-Mobile data plan
• Sand, prep, and spray rusty area on the rear bumper and HappiJacks
• Order drop stitch convertible kayak floor for kayak
• Review folding stair installation and determine possible modifications and replacement
• Fabricate new brackets for folding stairs so the top step is not partially covered by landing
• Replace small duct tape protection on the driver’s front corner outside
• Tighten loose screws on the roof lift mechanism near the dinette and sink
• Lube and tighten screws on roof lift mechanism (silicone) and jackscrew (lithium) 
• Check the set screws on the roof lift mechanism
• Reglue loose fabric on the lift mechanism cover
• Reduce the size of the outside exhaust trim plate for Truma Varioheat
• Replace exterior shower, refrigerator vents, paint CTV cover

I continued to work on interior window shades for the RAM and Coachman, plus a vinyl cover for the shovel on the Ute. Of course, there was more planning and reservations as those opened up for the summer and knitting.  All those skeins and bobbins being worked at once!

As the end of the month approached, we prepared for our trip to Crested Butte with Zoe and Matt. We drove to Tucson to pick up a 4WD SUV for our trip and packed our winter clothes and the cat (of course) for the 12-hour drive. There was a sandstorm as we drove north into Albuquerque, and it was a new experience to see not only how the visibility disappeared but the size and number of tumbleweeds that blew across the highway. Fortunately, it was a short section of the trip, and we moved from dry brown desert to green woods and snow!

We made it to Crested Butte just before the snowstorm started and had a delicious steak dinner made by Matt as we watched the big flakes and blowing wind settle in. It snowed all the next day, so we decided to wander around the shops of Crested Butte instead of skiing.

Zoe and Matt made a delicious Chicken Parmigiana for dinner that night as the snowing stopped. On the third day, Larry took a skiing lesson while Zoe skied and Matt snowboarded for the better part of the day. Nothing better than fresh powder!! Larry enjoyed his lesson, and the instructors said he was the best in his class (which was a shocker, I know).

I had the house to enjoy a full kitchen and walks with Scully.

We dined at The Breadery in town, which was a real treat as Zoe had had to make reservations months ago! During our last full day, we enjoyed snowshoeing on a trail Zoe and Matt had hiked in the summer before having a Beef Wellington I had made for dinner.

Close enough to the 5 year Nomad-adversary to count!

Seriously good eating!

It was exceptional to have time with family; before we knew it, we drove back to Benson. We both said it was a great feeling to be back on the road and that we had missed seeing new places the last few months. Just one more month, and we will be off on our summer adventure!

Remember this game—how many differences can you spot?  The second picture is “on the road” so the Ute is not as clean 😉

January 31, 2024

Unlike last January’s focused quest to prepare for Alaska, this January, we are spending time at the five-year mark of full-time travel to upgrade and reassess what we have. Who knew five years ago we would still be having so much fun! Speaking of fun, January was Larry’s birthday, so now we’re the same age again 😀. We celebrated the Polar Bear Party again at the SKP park (see January 2023 post about that event) and planned a February trip to Crested Butte with family.

Otherwise, we attended to the to-do project list we created in December. We took a trip to Tucson to rotate the tires at Discount Tire and visit an indoor-conditioned RV storage we had researched for summer 2024 storage of the Jeep and RV. The RV door lock on the Coachman was malfunctioning, but thankfully, Larry could troubleshoot it, talk to the company, and get parts to repair it. Ultimately, the lock needed replacement, but using a digital keypad has been so convenient that we felt we had gotten our money’s worth out of the first unit. A fellow SKP member was selling their extend-a-stay LP set-up, which Larry purchased and installed to make refilling our propane this winter much more accessible. Otherwise, we have to drive off the lot to fill our on-board propane tank, and with our solar panels on the roof tilted, we found the extend-a-stay did just what its name says.

We “dropped” the Ute by raising the four jacks so we could drive the RAM out from underneath. That allowed us to put on the tailgate, and Larry installed a tailgate camera he had purchased to replace the one he had relocated to the back of the Ute. We drove the RAM to the dealership in Sierra Vista to do the recall repair on the tailgate and grid heater relay, which didn’t take long. Larry’s research on the check engine light code revealed that he needed to replace the DEF pipe between the tank and injector. He ordered and installed the piece, though the pipe routing required some blind maneuvering from under the engine to get accomplished 😅.

Of course he dissected the old piece and found that it failed due to a loose wire!

He also purchased an Accutire MS-4021R tire pressure gauge and a tape measure for airbag inflation when we load and unload the Ute onto the RAM.

We had been looking for an enclosed utility trailer to store items in Benson and found Lowe’s had two trailers in Arizona, but only in Phoenix. With the Ute unloaded, we drove the RAM up to Phoenix, purchased one of the trailers, and stopped in Tucson on the way back to get a permanent tag.

Of course, Larry washed it and applied Griot’s Ceramic 3-In-1 Wax so it shone. The lock brackets needed adjusting to accommodate the locks we bought at Harbor Freight, which are more challenging to cut off.

The Ute got a great deal of attention from Larry as he worked on the following items:

• Design propane fittings for Little Red Campfire and Coleman grill to use the same hose 
• Reinstall the Truma water heater with a shorter base, new pex water connections, outside trim and caulk, design and install new display and sensor.  The display is on the far right on the wall.  

• Install water seal for rear storage cabinets and ventilated mat for air circulation
• Test swapping of new style ceiling lights from Hallmark
• Design and install Intellitec water pump relay and add lighted switches to bath and outside shower.  This is genius as it allows you to turn on and off the water pump from multiple locations!
• Install new handheld shower head with shut off 
• Replace the white rear door window frame with a black one and seal 
• Replace red Rotopax gas can with white Rotopax water container 
• Research step for access to the roof at the bike holder location
• Convert the rear closet from hanging storage to shelved storage and add light and carpet
• Caulk seam at the bottom of cab over area
• Research rear storage container attachments and level 
• Remove and install new caulk around bins and rear bumper 
• Develop a method to simplify the relocation of Pepwave between Ute and Coachman

I worked on patterning and making rear and front interior window covers for the RAM, interior window covers for the over-cab long window, and the two interior kitchen windows for the Coachman. I found a baby blanket pattern I liked for our grandson (due in May), modified the design, and knitted. 

Pumpernickel was due for senior bloodwork, and I found a house-call veterinarian to help with that. Larry was gone for that day in Washington, DC, finishing a project he’s been working on for over two years—more about that in another post! He made time to visit his parents gravesite in Arlington National Cemetery and it was stunning in the snow.

It turns out that Pumpernickel has a thyroid disorder that is common in elderly cats. Thankfully, he is accommodating about taking pills, so that is the treatment route we are on for now.  

I know we would rather travel and have adventures, but it does feel good to attend to tasks that have been waiting for a time just like this.

`

“Less talking more doing”    Duca – Odd Life Crafting

December 31, 2023

We always get Christmas decorations out of the “attic” (the storage pod on the RV roof) and get the RV looking festive in early December so we get to enjoy it all season. Larry designed Christmas cards to send, and choosing our favorite photos from the Alaska trip wasn’t easy! I made a pattern for the San Diego Padres logo and knitted it into several hats for our older daughter and her boyfriend, who are genuine team fans.

It would surprise no one who knows us that one of our priorities was to set up a spreadsheet of what we wanted to accomplish, sorted by month, week, difficulty, and time involved and broken down into stages if needed (i.e., order supplies for a project before doing the project). That was primarily Larry’s expertise, which paid off over the next few months. 

Here is what we accomplished by the end of December:

Jeep

• Inspect Demco brake actuator cable in Jeep for wear
• Research and purchase car cover

• Repair U joint squeak with a local repair shop

Coachman

• Organize tools area and tool bags in Coachman storage bins
• Develop a list of items to move from Coachman to Ute when traveling
• Develop a list of what we took vs what we used to reduce unnecessary items
• Fabricate exterior cab side window and windshield covers

Ute

• Review solar, battery, inverter, and alternator charging installation
• Install Smart plug 30 amp inlet and cord connector
• Reinstall the Truma Aquago water heater and trim out for a smaller water heater.    

Before

After, with finesse!

• Reinstall the Truma Varioheat furnace
• Repair window handle screw
• Replace non-skid on bumper steps
• Install new doormat on landing and snaps
• Modify refrigerator hinge attachment to align door from left to right properly
• Deep clean interior
• Check the trim screw around the metal trim part between the fiberglass and fabric sides
• Install a smoke detector and test the escape window
• Trim pilled areas on the ceiling
• Deep clean cassette and storage compartment
• Install thick clear tape on the bottom edges of the cassette to reduce wear and scratches
• Research new additives for cassette, recalculate amount, and develop storage
• Deep clean interior and exterior vinyl with IMAR Stamoid cleaner and conditioners
• Remove RockyMounts bike racks and install new shorter bolts and caulk 
• Clean auto vent for cassette toilet and troubleshoot full indicator light 
• Order deck for double kayak
• Order and install IRVWPC electronic pump controller
• List and sell the Atwood water heater and furnace 
• Design modifications to the existing storage cover and sew for a custom fit Work on the cover was challenging due to the sheer size and weight of thefabric! Included solar panel covers at front for protection, and I also made two Jack covers from extra fabric.  Sadly, no photos for this literally enormous project!
• Make shovel cover
• Fabricate new interior window shades for side and kitchen windows
• Reattach kitchen and side window metal strips for new window covers

RAM Truck

• Add four Rid-a-Rat rodent deterrent lights (two underhood and two at the rear of the truck)
• Develop airbag and tire pressure inflation chart with measurement to the edge of fender wells
• Change chassis and CAT fuel filters and order replacements
• Purchase Ram truck cover and California Duster
• Purchase and install accordion shade for interior windshield
• Prototype secure back seat storage for e-bikes and kayaks.  This project went very well, thanks to Larry’s planning and forethought!

At the park

• We both volunteered for the monthly Ice Cream Social
• Larry volunteered for the Solar Committee
• Sierra Vista Wild Wings outing with the park
• Gift exchange with 3 “steals” allowed – Larry got a pocket flashlight he uses all the time
• Bake nut rolls in the park’s commercial kitchen- A traditional recipe from Larry’s mother

   

Christmas Dinner

• NYE party 

 

The last day of 2023 had this number 😀

123123

A family Thanksgiving, whirlwind trip to Florida and winter plans

November 2023

I’d like to say we relaxed once we got to Benson but that would not be true. While we were astonished at how roomy the RV was in comparison to the Ute, we were even more impressed at how much stuff we had in the Ute to move back into the RV for winter. So, it took a bit, plus deep cleaning the interior and exterior of the Ute. Of course there was the exercise room, morning coffee, friends to catch up with and friends to make, the workshop, and lists of what projects we wanted to accomplish during our stay.  It has been almost 5 years on the road, and so a good point in time to pause for planning, reorganizing, upgrading, and dreaming about the future.

Just about the time we fully moved into the RV, it was time to drive to El Paso for Thanksgiving with our younger daughter and her family. They arranged for us to stay at the Fort Bliss FamCamp, which was very convenient.  When we arrived in El Paso, we had our bloodwork done at a Quest lab in preparation for our annual doctor appointment in Florida at the end of November.  We found a pet sitter, Kennedy, who only took care of one pet at a time and Pumpernickel made himself right at home when we went for an introduction before our trip. He ran right up the stairs of her home and planted himself on the bed in front of the aquariums! 

Our daughter cooked several meals for us including a delicious holiday feast.  We enjoyed taking walks, catching up on their plans, and played games during our evenings together.

Granddaughter Noli just turned one and is so much fun to be around 😍  Our time together was far too short before we flew to Florida for a few days. We took Pumpernickel to the Petsitter, and he again ran upstairs to join Kennedy’s husband who had just returned from deployment overseas. While we were away Kennedy sent us several pictures a day and I think he spent all 4 days on one of their laps in bed.

Our trip to Florida was for doctors, dentists, eye exams, checking on our storage, catching up with friends, and taking a walk or two on the beach.

Considering two of the four days were travel days, I think we accomplished a great deal.  Our small storage unit still is very tidy, but we did see a few mice droppings 😮.

Management mentioned that a renter had brought in some field mice with their belongings but the problem was resolved to their knowledge.  We went through the unit and really only found a few spots near the front, and no critters were subsequently ever caught in the traps they put in for us.  We kept thinking—the one time we didn’t bring the cat—who is a great mouser!  We’re good for another year, though we are thinking more seriously about consolidating by finding new medical providers in Arizona and moving our storage there as well.

Returning to Texas, we picked up the cat, who definitely had a more restful week than we did.  I think he misses the aquariums.

We were so thankful to have found Kennedy to look after him!

Oh, and I turned 62 this month which made me eligible for this card—50% off camping in national parks and Army Corp of Engineering Parks

Monument Valley, Navajo National Monument, Hubbell Trading Post and a winding route “home”

October 31, 2023

We reluctantly left the cliff edge of the San Juan River and carefully made our way back to the pavement. The BLM land had cleared out significantly from the eclipse crowd, so it was a leisurely drive into Monument Valley. We were last here in March of 2021 when the Navajo Land was protectively closed, and we could only gaze wistfully at the towering red stone sentinels silhouetted against the blue western sky. Not to say that we didn’t have some fun finding the Forrest Gump spot where Larry posed for some photos and videos.

This time, we spent an entire day on tours of Monument Valley with Will Cowboy of Navajo Spirit Tours.

He did an excellent job telling us about their culture, customs, and beliefs while we went to iconic sites and tour-only places.

We went to a Hogan sweat lodge and heard a woman’s narrative of Navajo life.

There is much to learn and see; this is just an introduction! The valley is beautiful with an inviting vibe—Larry likes it. After a quick lunch, we took the Mystery Valley tour with Will Cowboy. He took us to Square House Ruins, Skull Arch, Honeymoon Arch, and the Pancakes, allowing us to climb into the arches and touch ancient pottery pieces.

On both tours, Will sang a Navajo traveling song wishing us good things and no obstacles. (Tap on bottom left of video for volume control if needed)

We’d love to return when Larry has a better camera and camp with Navajo Spirit Tours on Hunts Mesa.

We drove about an hour to the Navajo National Monument, arriving just after sunset but still finding an available site in the free campground.

The next day we spent first at the Visitor Center for a movie, then hiking the Sandal trail out to the Betataken Cliff Dwellings overlook, the Aspen Trail down to look at a relic forest of Douglas fir and aspen (in the desert!), and lastly the Canyon View Trail with views of the Canyon.

In cooler seasons, ranger-led tours down to the Cliff Dwellings would be fascinating, and it would be an excellent exercise to hike up and down the Canyon at 7,000 feet!

We continued the next day to Hubbell Trading Post, where we lucked into a ranger-led tour of the Hubbell home. It is remarkable for all the artwork, Navajo rugs, baskets, and Burbank “redhead” ink drawings.

At the trading post, we sampled and fell in love with Arbuckle’s coffee, “the coffee that won the West.”

We boondocked at Pintail Lake Wetland before picking up packages in Show Low,

camping at Fool Hollow State Park, and visiting our friends in St Johns.

Larry and Eddie reviewed the solar installation, put in an exterior electric plug-in on the driver’s side of the Ute, and prepped for a Truma water heater upgrade later this month.

The scenic route west from St. Johns took us across the Salt River, and we camped at the Pinal County Fairgrounds before going to a Walmart in San Tan Valley, where the Truma installer met for Truma water heater and furnace upgrades.

It took all day, and we barely reached our next campground at McDowell Mountain Regional Park before the gate closed at 9 pm. We enjoy the Maricopa County regional parks, so we spent a night here, then at Cave Creek, then to Lake Pleasant as we worked our way across the top of Phoenix towards Surprise. Site 136 in the cul de sac of Desert Tortoise Campground was a prime spot overlooking the lake.

There was quite a drop-off to the lake as water levels are low, but we enjoyed sunsets and a cute rabbit who lived on our site.

We were there just as the weekend ended, so the campground emptied. As we’ve done most of the hikes at this park, we hiked around this part and surprised two coyotes! We’ve seen the burros plenty here, but the coyotes were a first. They were pretty brave, and we saw them scavenging in fire pits at some of the campsites (empty and full).

Later that evening, when walking to the bathrooms after sunset, we almost walked into a colossal skunk! Larry’s headlamp caught his big bushy tail up in the air and rump facing us just in time to avoid getting sprayed. We backed off, and he stomped his feet a few times and walked off, not without spinning around a few times to threaten us with his rear end. Whew—close call!

Finally, we arrived at National Indoor RV, and our hearts skipped a beat when we saw the Coachman and Jeep sitting together outside!

The RV is so big inside compared to the Ute! We were impressed by how neat, clean, and organized we had left everything. Of course, there were chores: checking fluid levels and tires, reassembling the bikes and hitch, Running both vehicles down the road to ensure all was well, and rinsing off the dust. We practiced hitching and unhitching the Jeep and drove the two together without mishap.

October is ending, and November will start with us in Benson again. It has been a fantastic seven months since we were there!

 

We are frequently asked, “Where do we call home?” our standard answer is “Wherever the RV is parked.” This time, it felt like coming home to be back with the RV that started Adventure 2.0 and have the promise of continued adventures with Marvin and the Ute.

Black Canyon of the Gunnison and Ring of Fire Solar Eclipse in Valley of the Gods

October 15

We continued our streak of free camping at a pull-through site in the Medicine Bow National Forest just south of Laramie, Wyoming.

Historic sites like the prison were closed due to reduced shoulder season hours or just the end of summer. It was a lovely, peaceful stop before we began the busyness of Denver, visiting our daughter and taking the Ute for a check-up at Hallmark. Our first stop was at our older daughter’s new place, where Larry helped her assemble an IKEA dresser before we shopped together at Costco. That night, we spent at Cabela’s, where I was unsuccessful in finding a pair of pants like the ones I purchased in Anchorage. On Tuesday, October 3, Larry washed the Ute and RAM before we drove to the Hallmark factory in Fort Lupton. We walked around the showroom for ideas on upgrades and spent the night in their parking lot before our appointment the following day. This plan worked out well, except…there were tremendous numbers of flies from the fields nearby, an occasional plague that periodically happens, and they disappear after a few days. It was days before we got them all out, and even the cat was unimpressed and refused to swat at them. On Wednesday, we spent several hours reviewing questions about our Ute and purchasing some items for upgrades.

We left full of ideas and checked in at Cherry Creek State Park before meeting our daughter and her boyfriend for dinner. What a full day! They suggested an alternative route to our next destination, so we followed their advice and drove the Guanella Pass, where the aspens were lovely, and the leaf peepers were out in force! The drive up the pass to over 10,000 feet was steep and full of switchbacks, but the truck and Larry handled it with no issues.

There was no parking near our suggested Abyss Lake hike, so we drove to camp at Antero Reservoir South Shore Campground near Hartsel, Colorado. It was perfect and peaceful after Denver!

After a stop in Salida, we spent the next night at Elk Creek Campground on the Blue Mesa Reservoir in the Curecanti National Recreation area near Gunnison.

The Neversink trail along the Gunnison River was a pleasant hike in the trees with a few bridge crossings over feeder creeks and sloughs with the cottonwoods changing a lovely yellow-orange.

In the afternoon, we hiked the Pine Creek trail along the Gunnison River, which took over 200 steps down the steep canyon walls to where there used to be a narrow gauge railroad. It reminded us of the narrow canyon and Rio Grande river in the Big Bend National Park.

On Sunday, we drove to the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, taking the 18% grade road to the much less visited East Portal and Dam park area.

After a quick lunch, we drove to High Point at the end of the South Rim Road and hiked the High Point Trail for 360-degree canyon views.

We stayed at the Sunset View lookout until well after sunset, so we got to our reserved campsite at the South Rim Campground in the dark.

Our search for the Dragon’s Tongue, which we later learned happens in April and August, had us at Dragon Point well before sunrise the next day.

We enjoyed a serene private sunrise over the canyon and then visited all the rest of the overlooks at the South Rim – Cedar Point, Painted Wall View, Chasm View, Rock Point, Cross Fissures View, and Pulpit Rock Overlook.

The campground was now first come, first served, so we found a site before hiking to Tomichi Point on the Rim Rock Trail, then the Oak Flat Loop Trail below the rim, then back to the campground on the Uplands trail.

The part below the rim was a much cooler oak forest with beautifully changing leaves.

We drove to Ridgway State Park, near Ouray, Colorado, on Tuesday. We last stayed here in mid-October 2020! We stayed down the hill in Dakota Terraces this time, which we liked better.

We saw three magnificent bull moose on the Million Dollar Highway drive from Silverton to the Old Hundred Gold Mine.

Our tour guide at the mine was outstanding and primarily focused on how they got the ore out.

Afterward, Larry panned for gold for several hours despite bouts of sleet and snow. Unlike Alaska, Colorado is hard rock mining, not placer gold, so it took patience and persistence to find flakes—which he did!!

Our route next took us through the Lizardhead Pass to Cortez, which sits at the edge of high desert western Colorado and the beautiful Rocky Mountains.

We liked the feel of this town very much and were able to find some glasses for the eclipse! We filled with water in Bluff, Utah, before driving to the Valley of the Gods BLM land to boondock for the eclipse. The rangers at the entrance warned us that the area was almost at camper capacity—and it was!

We drove more than halfway around the loop before Larry spied a likely spot near a group of friendly campers who invited us to join them for the eclipse. They were dedicated astrophotographers who routinely traveled internationally to eclipse sites and had some legitimately expensive equipment.

On Saturday, October 14, we saw the eclipse, which was phenomenal. The eclipse glasses worked well, and I had the NASA site up online to follow it live. Larry put his iPhone on a tripod with a lens from one of the eclipse glasses taped over the camera lens. He used a free SolarSnap app to adjust phone settings and get outstanding photos.

It was an incredible event in an extraordinary setting with some beautiful people.

We all said goodbye on Sunday and drove the rest of the Valley of the Gods loop, which was much longer than I expected.

Although we headed towards Goosenecks State Park, there was a boondocking site I wanted Larry to try and get to that wasn’t in the park but sat on the canyon rim overlooking the canyon, the San Juan River, and the west side of Gooseneck State Park. It wasn’t the most accessible drive, but we are in a capable truck camper with an experienced off-road driver…the view is probably the best we’ve had! We spent two days and nights here, all by ourselves.

 

Nature’s Eye Candy, indeed.

 

Yellowstone, Grand Tetons, Independence Rock, friends old and new

September 30, 2023

It’s so lovely to be back home!! We drove to Great Falls, Montana, and parked there for a few days while enjoying the opportunity to shop, change our phone plans as we no longer need Canada access, talk to friends about upcoming visits, receive packages, pay bills, and tend to chores.  Gotta say—Walmart in the lower 48 not only has better selection than Canada but very cheerful people!!

We took the time to visit the Lewis and Clark Museum nearby, which has a rotating selection of movies and several exhibits about their expedition. We then headed southeast for a quick lunch with our daughter’s in-laws before camping in Bozeman at the fairgrounds. After a quick oil change (Larry is getting good at these), we headed towards the Lamar Valley in Yellowstone National Park. Before we moved again into the land of no cell service, we chatted with our daughter and were delighted to hear she is pregnant with our second grandchild!

We had been to Yellowstone earlier in our travels but not to the Lamar Valley, called Yellowstone’s Serengeti, for the bison herds, pronghorn, elk, deer, and wolves. I had been lucky enough to get reservations for three nights at Slough Creek campground right at the start of the Lamar Valley, so it was easy to arise before dawn and park at an overlook where we hiked the Specimen Ridge Trail. There were bear tracks along the way, a busy badger, tufts of bison fur everywhere, and even scattered bones from a large animal.

Can you see the chipmunk—he does!!

Neighbors

The following day, before dawn, we parked at another pullout where an elk carcass had attracted some wolves. We did spot a lone wolf scavenging and were sad to see that its lower jaw was broken on both sides and hanging uselessly. Some “wolf watchers,” easily located by looking for groups of people with immense spotting scopes, opined that the park rangers likely would be sure it didn’t suffer.

On Wednesday, September 27, we drove to a pullout overlooking the Hayden Valley just north of the MudPots. We watched the fog lift and some geysers steam in the river in solitude until after lunch, when we drove south around Yellowstone Lake toward the Tetons.

We boondocked for free at Sheffield Creek campground off a forest road just south of Headwaters campground. One site nestled back by a little creek near some of the horse corrals was open, and the next campsite even had a few horses in their corral!

On Saturday morning, we drove through Grand Teton National Park to the National Museum of Wildlife Art just north of Jackson. Dave and Cindy had recommended it, and we wanted to stop in before seeing them that evening. We enjoyed the sculptures outside as well as the realistic portraits. 

In Jackson, we rinsed Marvin off and got groceries and fuel, and Google Maps was kind (& creepy) enough to remind us that we were here three years ago! We had a great time catching up with Dave and Cindy (MyTripJournal.com Albino Rhino) over pizza at Dormans, and then stayed on their work camper site in Gros Ventre campground.

It was hard to say goodbye the following day, but we headed southwest to Lander, Wyoming, through the gorgeous Wind River Range. We stopped at the Tie Hack memorial to those who cut the necessary railroad ties as the railroads moved west, and then we went to Sacajawea’s Gravesite just north of Lander.

At the Museum of the American West in Lander, there were several floors of local history, preserved outbuildings and cabins, and a friendly docent. A bearskin rug and rocking chair by a wood burning stove—I’m in!!

The Lander City Park was our free campsite for the night, and although it was a bit busier than usual due to a soccer tournament, we had a quiet night alongside the creek.

On the last day of September, we had a splendid day driving to Independence Rock.

This rock was especially significant as emigrants knew if they reached it by July 4, they should get to Oregon and beyond before the winter snows of the Rockies.

In the 1850s, many thousands scribed, painted, or carved their name on the rock to mark their passage, and you can still see some of them, especially in areas protected from the wind, sun, and blowing sand.

One hundred eighty years later, time is erasing their signatures as slowly as those who came before them.

Larry climbed to the top, where there was more recent “historical graffiti” from the 1930s.

We drove to Devil’s Gate and Martin’s Cove nearby, where a group of Mormons with handcarts traveled too late in November of 1856 towards Salt Lake City and got caught in a blizzard. 145 of the 600 perished before rescuers arrived to help them. There appears to be a campground, hiking trails, and a Mormon museum, so this would be a neat area to return to with more time to hike, bike, explore, and immerse ourselves in the history.

In nearby Rawlins, Wyoming, we spent the night in a Walmart parking lot where our Alaska tag made us friends with our neighboring campers from Kasilof, Alaska. After chatting well into the evening, we exchanged numbers and hope to catch up with them again in 2025. It is a small world, and adventurous travelers through the ages have always found they share much in common!

 

Pumpernickel turned 15 this month! He is such a great traveler and companion—what a life he leads ❤️

September 20, 2023

Waterton Lakes campgrounds become first come, first served after September 10, and as it was a Saturday, we went with a sure thing and made reservations at Pincher Creek along the way.

Each Canadian Province has a unique look, and Alberta was more prairie and farming for a change of pace from mountains and glaciers!

On Sunday, we drove into Waterton Lakes, and the first thing we hiked was the Bears Hump to get a panoramic overview of the town.

It was pretty windy up there, which was an excellent introduction to how much stronger the wind would blow for the rest of our stay.

The town sits at one end of the deepest lakes of the Rockies so the wind has a long fetch to gather force. After getting a spot in the Townsite campground, we walked over to the visitor Centre, where Ranger Jack of the US National Park Service was out front for a talk about bears and skulls, skins, and other props.

Ranger Jack shared this quote about bears, which seems appropriate as we’ve seen 24 black bears and almost as many grizzlies on this trip. “In part because bears can be so dangerous, they force you to pay attention. They flood your blood with adrenaline and endorphins. They introduce you to terror, awe, amazement, and ecstasy. Bears connect you to the deepest pulses of life. This is their gift: the power to take your life, or to renew it; to re-create who you are, if only for a moment, and perhaps for a lifetime.”

Afterward, we toured the town and ate frozen huckleberry yogurt in a chocolate and coconut-dipped waffle cone.

Very relaxed deer all over town.

We spent the day driving, hiking, and exploring Waterton Lakes National Park on Monday.

We quickly stopped at Cameron Falls before driving the Red Rock Parkway out to Blakiston Falls, where we had to stop and let a doe with her two fawns cross a footbridge ahead of us. We could tell she wanted to cross, but we were in the way, so when we backed up, she ran past us, closely followed by her fawns.

This looks like a fun way to explore Waterton Lakes!

After completing the Red Rock Parkway, we backtracked into town and drove the Akamina Parkway to Cameron Lake, where we ate our picnic lunch. When I made our trip plans, Waterton Lakes was at the end of the trip, so I didn’t give it too much research. It’s a Waterton/Glacier Crown of the Continent, two parks joined together across the United States and Canada border. So, how different could Waterton be from Glacier? As it turns out, it’s very different!

In 2017, a fire swept through Waterton and burned about 90% of the trees you can see from any drive or hike. Additionally, the whitebark pine at higher elevations is dead mainly due to blister rust—you mostly see dead tree trunks and bare limbs everywhere. Some spots have shrubs turning pretty fall colors, but overall, it’s nothing like what I imagined. When we hiked around Cameron Lake, we met some locals who said it was tough to see the park the first time they returned after 2017, but the spring wildflowers are spectacular now due to all the sun they get. They sadly admitted that perhaps their grandchildren will see it in a semblance of its former glory.

On the way back into town, we stopped at the site of Canada’s first oil rig, whose production was short-lived due to the shallow and small oil deposit.

We hiked to Crandall Lakes, where the rocks around this lake were so white they almost looked whitewashed.

We hiked over 10 miles, and the wind was 30 mpg with gusts to 40! Thankfully, the camper only shook a little bit overnight in the wind.

Tuesday was a bit less windy, though still too much for a boat ride to Goat’s Haunt, so we did a peaceful early hike from our campground to Bertha Falls.

It was our last day in Canada, so we drove to the Prince of Wales Hotel, high on a hill where Upper and Lower Waterton Lakes meet. We had a delicious High Tea to celebrate our trip, which seemed fitting as we started Day 1 with High Tea at Butchart Gardens on Vancouver Island!

Recalling our trip and talking about our favorites overall and by location was fun- what a trip we had! We relaxed for the rest of the day and prepared to cross back into the USA.

And here we are, back home!🥹

 

I came across this quote when I was trying to find something about how you don’t get to choose home but that home tugs at your heart and chooses you.  At the end of our Alaska adventure, Drue’s advice seems more appropriate.

“Life should be a daring, loving, laughing adventure — or it is nothing at all. If you don’t start choosing, life and circumstance will choose for you. You can change or stay the same. You can grow or never leave the nest. All of life becomes about our choices. We choose our people, we choose our ways, we choose our thoughts, and we choose how we seize or surrender our days. Every day, every moment, and every thought is about choice. So everyday you must make your choices. Life isn’t ever really about what happens to us, but how we respond to life.”

― Drue Grit