Author: Ranger (Page 5 of 7)

Anchorage to Kenai

July 13, 2023

When we got up on July 7, Larry said his arms were only a little sore from the ice climbing workout the day before, though well worth it! Our plan for the day was a short 80-mile drive to Eklutna Lake along the beautiful Glenn highway.

We snagged a campsite at Eklutna Lake Campground in Chugach State Park before the campground filled that Friday afternoon and walked down to the lake.  

The weather was threatening to rain, but the lake was still beautiful.  

We hiked the Lakeside Trail where we found real bear signs (not the silly ones we’ve been showing you).

The locals we met were carrying firearms confirming our general rule to bring bear spray on hikes in Alaska.

The next morning on our way to Anchorage we took a quick hike to Thunderbird Falls. 

One of our friends in Fairbanks had recommended lunch at Tommy’s and they weren’t wrong.  The hamburger and onion rings were huge and delicious, but the chocolate peanut butter milkshake was outstanding!

We hadn’t been to Anchorage for over a decade so we revisited some of our favorite spots including Title Wave Bookstore before going to Mass at the Holy Family Cathedral. This car parked next to us and Larry got some information about sluicing for gold next week! 

We spent the next several nights camped overnight at the Lake Hood Seaplane Base.  While Airplanes have the right of way on all the roads, Anchorage locals jog, bike, and walk their dogs through the area. Larry was absolutely in paradise with the view out our back door.

He took photos of planes, the little huts by each seaplane dock, and planes taking off by water and land.

This half-truck takes float planes out of the water.

Sunday morning was a glorious sunny day so we hiked up Flattop Mountain for a panoramic view of Anchorage!  

The last part is an unmarked crab-walking rock scramble with down being decidedly more challenging than up.  

It was worth it for the views, and the reward—pizza at Moose’s Tooth!

On Monday, July 10, Larry made reservations for gold sluicing with Prospector Johns on July 12!  We ran some errands in town before heading down Turnigan Arm on the Seward Highway. This is the only route to the Kenai Peninsula, but unfortunately, a crash involving two RVs created a traffic delay of several hours. 

Eventually, we arrived at our boondocking site at Bore Tide Viewing #3.

The tide comes up the Arm with such a surge that it causes a wave either from a few inches to several feet.  For us, just seeing the silty quicksand bottom almost completely exposed and covered was incredible!

We spent a good part of Tuesday morning and afternoon at the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center at the end of Turnigan Arm near the turn on the Seward Highway towards Homer.  Injured and orphaned wildlife who cannot be released get a good home here.  Animals at the Center include bears, wolves, moose, deer, caribou, musk oxen, an eagle, and other native wildlife.  The volunteers and staff were enthusiastic and eager to share information.  We arrived before morning feeding time and the wolves were especially active waiting for their meal.  After taking the walkable loop trail to the larger pens, we were pleased to see the parking lot full. Visitors support the work of the conservation center caring for and feeding their animals all year.

We found a sweet boondocking spot for the night on a forest service road overlooking a series of ponds. 

On Wednesday, July 12,  we were in Cooper Landing in plenty of time to get Larry geared up for his gold sluicing.  Prospector John has been featured in “Devil’s Canyon” on Discovery Channel and has a working claim on the Kenai Lake.  Prospecting is about finding gold and is different from mining gold where clearing access to a claim site, setting up and provisioning a camp, then moving in all equipment and supplies are key components. Sluicing is a lot of work, so this time I joined the adventure as a photographer. John took us out to his claim in his boat, where the group split up to work on two different sluices.

After John gave us a tour of the mining camp where miners Steve and Mike live, Larry and a father-son team received instruction on how to use the sluice and sluice box. 

 They got to work and rotated the duties between them for two and a half hours. 

In the end, Miner Mike cleaned out the sluice box and panned the pay dirt for gold.  

Wow—and  Larry got to keep 1/3 of it!

We camped that night at the Russian River campground before hiking to the Russian River Falls the next morning.  

Twice on our hike, we surprised some grouse hens with their chicks beside the trail, and they stayed long enough for photos. 

At the Falls, we were rewarded with views of migrating salmon! Larry took the top photo with the more athletic salmon.

We had a lovely day to drive into the town of Kenai and explore the Russian church and historic downtown. 

 From the bluff, we could see dip netters trying for salmon in the Cook Inlet below.  We looked at those expensive $150 dip nets at WalMart and they are several feet in diameter so they must take some skill to use successfully.

It was such a pretty day that a local commented “Summer came on a Thursday this year!

There are five species of wild salmon in Alaska, and we’ve been told multiple times how to remember them by the fingers on your hand:

Thumb – Chum (or dog) salmon. This rhymes so it makes sense.

Index Finger – Sockeye (or red) salmon because you use this finger to poke someone in the eye and make it red.

Middle Finger – King (or Chinook) salmon. The tallest finger is the king, and this salmon is the best-tasting of them all.

Ring Finger – Silver (or Coho) salmon. You can wear silver on your ring finger.

Pinkie Finger – Pink (Humpy) salmon. These are the smallest salmon

Talkeetna, Hatcher Pass, and the Matanuska Glacier

July 6, 2023

After we left Denali National Park on July 2, we drove south to Talkeetna.  We were looking to reprise our fond memories from years ago of walking around the quaint little town and enjoying reindeer sausage and biscuits at Talkeetna Roadhouse.  It was a bright sunny day as we drove into the harsh reality that the world had also discovered Talkeetna since we were last there.  Multitudes of cruise ship passengers disembark at the train depot to clog Main Street. The Roadhouse only has a bakery window now, and meals are just for overnight guests.  The experience was so disappointing that we left without stopping.  Sigh – memories soften the rough edges and highlight the fun times and emotions, especially times spent with your children. But, ouch!

We had picked several boondocking spots on the banks of the Susitna River to choose from for that night’s camping, so we went to each to decide which was best. Our favorite choice involved a stream crossing to get to our camp spot. What fun! Other campers were fishing and riding their ATVs, so we felt like locals being there.

The next morning we decided to give Talkeetna another try, at least to have a pastry and walk around before the crowds. Sadly, none of the places we wanted to visit were open that Monday, and with the gloomy rain we decided some places you just can’t go back to.

On the drive south to Parks Highway, our spirits were lifted by the sighting of a moose grazing close to the road.  

We had a delicious reindeer sausage croissant with coffee at Black Bear Coffee, so warmed and nourished, we drove on into Palmer.

We refueled and re-provisioned before going to the Finger Lake State Recreation area campground.  Boondocking spots are usually available in the Hatcher Pass area where we would be adventuring, but I had reserved this sure spot nearby for the holiday weekend. Besides, it is always fun to be surrounded by celebrating campers!

The next day was July 4, Independence Day!  We drove up early to the Independence Mine in Hatcher Pass.  

The mine wasn’t open for the day yet, so we hiked the Gold Cord Lake trail. 

 It is hard to believe that there used to be a small town of homesites all up this hill for mine family, and thankfully this little one remains.  

The lake was just starting to thaw at the edges in early July, and you could see how lovely, clear, and blue the lake must be perhaps in August.

View from the lake looking down at the mine

Later, the historical mine tour took us into closed buildings to learn how the gold miners lived from 1938 to 1951.  

A century ago in the middle of nowhere, children read the classics in school!

After our tour, we met two pet reindeer out on a walk with their owners who said they are like “very needy dogs.”  

Only in Alaska!  While the lower 48 may have baked in the heat, our Independence Day at Independence Mine was cool in many ways!

On July 5, we returned to the Hatcher Pass area to hike the Gold Mint Trail.  Due to all the rain, recent reviews of our hiking trail options mentioned slick and muddy conditions.  

We opted for an 8-mile hike on the Gold Mint Trail, which goes further out to the Gold Mint Hut after a part of the trail that is currently “spongy.”  To explain, for one summer vacation our family hiked the Maine Huts & Trails system consisting of 4 huts with at least 12 miles of hiking between each of them.  We were told some areas were spongy, but what we didn’t know was that in Maine spongy means the trail boardwalks are washed away and you’ll be sloshing about up to your knees in water. (Our awesome teenage daughters took it in stride and did great!) The term stuck and now a spongy trail means it is underwater.  No worries, the Hatcher Pass area is gorgeous, and it would be a great spot to return for more hiking.  

July 6 was ice climbing on the Matanuska Glacier for Larry!  I talked to the guides at Matanuska Ice Climbing Adventures earlier in June who kindly refunded my portion of the trip as I was not a candidate for ice climbing or even spectating as my broken arms were not completely healed. We arrived early and were impressed to see the crew cleaning the interior and exterior of the vans that transported guests to either the glacier or the heliport.  That kind of attention to detail says a lot about a business! 

They carefully fitted Larry with boots, crampons, and a belaying harness before going to the heliport.

The helicopter then took him several miles to a remote area on the Matanuska Glacier.  

His guide, Thomas, did an outstanding job teaching Larry ice-climbing skills and then coaching him through climbs of increasing difficulty.  

For the last challenge, he rappelled down into a crevasse deep in the blue ice with a waterfall and river!  

 

Larry returned to the camper with a huge smile on his face and quite a story to tell about his day.  MICA guides let us stay in our parking spot for the night, and we had visitors!

July 1, 2023

On Monday, June 26, we left Fairbanks and drove 115 miles to Denali National Park. We checked in at the beautiful visitor center and chatted with one of the ranger about our plans. She signed us up for a ranger-led Discovery hike, which I didn’t think would be available as those opportunities disappear fast.

Getting ready for some unbearable fun in Denali!

The only moose sign we saw in Denali.

We drove over to the kennels and enjoyed the dog sled demonstration, though not as much as the dogs clearly did!

Pika was Larry’s favorite sled dog.

Our next stop was Riley Creek Mercantile where we were able to get our permits for camping at Teklanika and Savage River as well as our passes for riding the green buses while we are out at Teklanika.  This means that once we go through the checkpoint at mile 15 tomorrow we won’t have to come back to the park entrance when we move to Savage River campground! With that accomplished, we drove about 16 miles south of the park to boon dock right alongside the Nenana River on an abandoned section of the Parks Highway.  It was a quiet peaceful night beside the river.

Tuesday morning we were up very early to drive into Denali.

We hiked Mount Healy in total peace and solitude all the way to the top! Except for this dangerous fellow – do you see him?

The views from the top were spectacular!

After a short rest and another cup of coffee we hiked the Horseshoe Lake trail, where the picture of the beaver dam does not do it justice for the intricate engineering work of art that it is.

Although we didn’t see them, the beaver are still quite active here and I thought the pattern of their treework was pretty cool as well.

The start of this trail is up the hill to the right of the train tracks but we had plenty of warning to get out of the way.

We stopped at Riley Creek to make sure we had enough water to last several days and then drove out to our campsite at Teklanika. At 29 miles from the park entrance, “Tek” is the furthest you can drive your own vehicle. You need to make a reservation for a minimum of three days and the permit makes it clear that your vehicle or RV cannot leave once it is there.  This means you purchase bus passes to ride (only) the green bus either deeper into the park or no further back than the permit checkpoint at mile 15. A bit complicated but oh so worth it to be far away from the crowds near the park entrance! 

Denali cat!

 From the campground you can walk to the braided river bed for beautiful views (especially good with morning coffee).

Wednesday we had to meet the 8:30am green bus to join our Discovery Hike ranger and group who had started together at the bus depot near the park entrance.

We rode out to mile 43, which is where the road stops because of the landslide two miles further at Pretty Rocks. Essentially the road melted off of the rocky hillside so the park is figuring out how to build a bridge over the unstable area. This may take several more years at least, as no contractor is leaning in to do the project. The ranger took us down to explore along the riverbed several miles to the landslide area.

We learned what we have affectionately dubbed the “Denali Song” for walking through brush in bear country: “If you can HEAR me, don’t come NEAR me” with the capitalized words loudest and drawn out. “You should FEAR me” can be added as an optional line. Another variation is “ If you can SEE me, you should FLEE me.”  The Discovery Hike lasted several hours and included some stream crossings, talks about plants, wildlife, geology and other topics. We saw several caribou from a distance and then one trotted just behind us while we were eating the lunches we packed.

This one is well camouflaged .

We did see evidence of a brown bear and learned that the Denali brown bear are mostly vegetarian and thus smaller than the coastal brown bear who feast on salmon. I’ll still carry my bear spray!

From the bus on our way back to the campground, we could see some Dall sheep—those white dots are them!  

On Thursday, June 29, we rode another green bus from Tek back to mile 17 to do an off trail hike to Mount Margaret.

It is not an official trail so the start is an inauspicious looking break in the trees by the road.

We hiked up about a quarter mile through the dense brush until it thinned out. It was early, overcast and gloomy, we were alone and couldn’t see more than a few feet around us—yep, we sang the song we learned! The hike took us up through tundra to Mount Margaret on the Primrose Ridge and incredible views! Though we didn’t see any wildlife, we looked out over the other side to endless mountain views, rock pinnacles and green alpine slopes unknown to less adventurous travelers. We enjoyed a hot lunch we had brought as we felt in awe of the wilderness around us.

Magical! The rain, wind and mountain mist that had been threatening swept over us, so for the journey down we put on extra layers and rain pants. That was most definitely our favorite hike of Denali and for our next visit (when the road is opened again) we’ll stay longer at Tek and do more explorations like this!

Flashback – before we came to Denali with our girls in 2009, Larry read an ad in his flying magazine about a lodge in Kantishna for one of the Denali aviation services. So we stayed there, slept in a very small cabin and ate family style with the pilots and staff. We rode serviceable bicycles of an uncertain age up and down hills to Wonder Lake and wandered the braided river bed before biking back again. All without a word of complaint from the girls in spite of biting bugs and tired legs! We hiked all day up past an old mine onto the tundra to a lookout where Larry identified a collection of instruments as a seismic monitoring station. Whereupon I pounded my walking stick into the tundra three times exclaiming “boom boom boom” much to his dismay!  No earthquake was reported in Denali on that day in 2009 and the story remains a family joke about how ridiculous Mom can be. So yes, we will come back when Denali is fully open again because there is still so much to explore and so many more memories to make!

Friday we left early and drove back to the Savage Alpine Trailhead where we were the first car in the parking lot! What a great hike, with a creekside trail to start, a narrow ridgeline crest at the end and panoramic vistas at the top.

And look who showed up! 

Just kidding, I meant this one! Only 30% of visitors to Denali actually get to see the mountain so we feel blessed.

We took the easy loop walk around the Savage River before taking the shuttle back to the camper in a full parking lot. We spent the night at Savage River campground where we had been warned the bears had been active, although we didn’t have any during our stay. 

Saturday morning we drove just outside the park to Denali Raft Adventures where we donned dry suits for an oar raft trip. The cast on my left arm was off now and the supportive wrist brace fit pretty well under the dry suit, although we all looked like colorful blow up holiday yard decorations.

Our guide, Andrea, kept us entertained and did a great job navigating the Class 1-3 rapids. During a float section we spotted a pair of bald eagles!

We celebrated afterwards with hot coffee and a pastry before checking into our Denali campground at Riley Creek where we were able to do laundry and take showers.

One of the campground hosts was from our Florida childhood hometown and his father had been a great mentor for Larry, so we spent the evening hours sharing stories around the campfire. On Sunday morning, July 2, we waited for the visitor center to open so Larry could get his Junior Ranger badge. Denali makes you work for this one but it was worth it!

Goodbye Denali, we WILL be back!

Jack Heine

1931 – 2021

Larry’s reflections on his childhood mentor

Everyone’s life is represented by the dash between the date you were born and the date you died.  That dash stands for the gift of time we get to live and make a difference.  Let me tell you about Mr. Heine’s dash and what it meant to me.  Mr Heine lived next door when I was growing up and he was the best mentor a boy could ask for.  He taught me how to work on boats, how to use tools, to keep a tidy and organized workbench (and life).  Long after I was grown and moved away, we stayed in touch and he continued to delight in my projects and successes.  His son, Mike, was kind enough to reach out to me when Mr. Heine no longer could.  The dash Mr. Heine leaves behind is that when I am at the workbench or contemplating how to tackle a project I am reminded that he gave me the greatest gift of all — the gift of his time and part of his dash.  I will always remember him and be grateful for that.  

Summer Solstice!

June 26, 2023

We stayed in Fairbanks from June 16 to June 26, and it was a wonderful place to have fun and get things done.  On our first visit to Fairbanks in October of 2017, we saw the spectacular Museum of The North as well as Running Reindeer Ranch, Creamers Field, the Aleyska Pipeline, Chena Hot Springs Resort, Angel Rocks Trail,  Hilltop Restaurant on the Elliott Highway, and the North Pole.

All of the above are worthy of a visit, but we planned to see new places. We timed our stay so that we could celebrate the midnight sun during the Summer Solstice. Our campground in Fairbanks was at the Elks Club (we’re Elk members) on the Chena River, where kayaks, boats, and paddle boarders went by our back door on the weekends.  Downtown was just across the river and we found the antler arch!

Our first fun activity was to take a half-day float fishing trip with Alaska Fishing and Rafting Adventures down the Chena River. We purchased our Alaska fishing licenses in advance, then early one morning our guides drove us about 34 miles northeast to the Hodgins Slough Access.  When we launched the boats at the river we were greeted by swarms of biting mosquitos and were grateful to have head nets.  Once we got out on the water, they were less numerous though still as fierce!  Our guide Dave rowed us to several spots along the river, where I used a spinner rod and Larry tried fly fishing for the first time.  Neither of us had worn wading pants before and it was a unique experience to feel the cold water but not get wet. Both of us landed a grayling!

On the summer solstice (also our 38th wedding anniversary!), we picked up our bibs for the Midnight Sun Run later that week and found the Chinook Hot Dog bus recommended by our river guide. Great hotdogs made by a great guy! 

 Later that afternoon we visited Pioneer Park where we toured old cabins and buildings from early Fairbanks history preserved and moved to this location.  

Their aviation museum was especially interesting–flying is an essential way of travel for Alaskans, with a rich history of innovation and adventure.

We had dinner at the Alaskan Salmon Bake before being entertained at the Golden Heart Review comedy musical about Fairbanks’s history.  

While the sun never really set, we had no problem sleeping. 

The Riverboat Discovery cruise on a replica Sternwheeler was an attraction that exceeded our expectations in how well done it was, especially considering how few months it operates.  

We enjoyed the sled dog demo by Trail Breaker Kennels, and talks at the Athabascan Village.

I had the book “Granite” autographed by Susan Butcher’s husband and purchased the stuffed animal to go along with it as inspiration for our granddaughter.  

The book celebrates how Susan’s belief in the runt of the litter helped him become the lead dog on all of her four Iditarod championships. We ate a family-style lunch at their restaurant and talked to fellow tourists before driving to the Dredge #8 tour a little north of town. Larry had a blast panning for gold and his efforts were rewarded with 45 dollars worth of gold flakes!

Another morning we met our van tour at 5:40 am and rode with guide Anna Kate for 232 miles of the Dalton Highway to the Arctic Circle.  

Known as the “Haul Road,” this rough gravel road is used primarily by commercial truckers driving from Fairbanks to the oil fields in Deadhorse.

We decided to take a guided van tour and were glad we did as it is a long drive from Fairbanks to the Arctic Circle.  Our tour included stops at Joy’s,

Finger Rock landmark,

the Yukon River Fish Camp for lunch and dinner,

(This is the same almost 2000 mile Yukon River we saw just after its start south of Whitehorse on its way to the Bering Sea!)

the Arctic Circle for photos,

a permafrost demonstration, and the Pipeline.  

We admired this group for their courage riding on the Dalton!

The day finished back in Fairbanks around midnight along with a certificate for crossing the Arctic Circle.

Sunset lasts for several hours and then the sun rises again!

The Summer Solstice Festival was downtown on Saturday, June 24, and we walked over to see the fun.  Our favorite part was a competition where teams vied for the fastest time pushing a Hummer up the street.  Of course, we were rooting for the Army team!

We purchased fun Bear and Moose hats at Walmart for the Midnight Sun 10K that night.

There are serious competitors, but many runners dress up in costumes, and neighborhoods along the route provide refreshments, encouragement, and sprinklers to cool off!  

Larry mentioned we might want to jog a little at the start to get out of the crowd, and I said we could keep it up—so we did.  We jogged for 30 seconds and walked for 30 seconds the entire 10K. The run started at 10 pm and we finished before midnight with a time of 1:24:12 and a 13:34 minute mile average. Pretty good!

It was a great ending to our stay in Fairbanks!

 

“Once you come to Alaska you never go all the way home.” – a local Alaskan

June 16, 2023

On Wednesday, June 12, we woke to a lovely view at our campsite.

We drove through more Yukon beauty to the Carcross Desert, the world’s smallest desert (what is left of an ancient glacial lake, kept active by winds from nearby Bennett Lake.)  

At the Miles Canyon Suspension bridge on the outskirts of Whitehorse, we crossed the footbridge, amazed to think that the gold rush prospectors navigated down this narrow canyon in flimsy rafts!  Whitehorse was named because the whitewater waves on this stretch of the Yukon River reminded early pioneers of white waving horse manes and tails, though it is much less wild now with dams controlling its flow.

Our first stop in Whitehorse was at the SS Klondike Sternwheeler where we took a Parks Canada tour.  The SS Klondike is one of the few preserved steam-powered paddlewheelers that traveled the Yukon for almost 100 years.

While we were the only two people on the tour with our guide Lauriene, she said this fellow had been showing up regularly on tours lately.

We walked around downtown Whitehorse, including the Kwanlin Dun Cultural Centre and the Whitehorse Visitor Centre. Lunch, diesel fuel, a hardware store, Walmart, Canadian Tire, and a Canadian Superstore were all shopping stops, and we spent the night comfortably in the Canadian Superstore parking lot with a few other rigs. 

On Thursday we were off to find the metal horse statue celebrating how Whitehorse was named.

We parked at the SS Klondike again to walk the trail up and down both banks of the Yukon River.   Many of the aspen trees had this interesting pattern on their leaves, and we learned later this was the result of leaf miner larvae.

The rest of the morning and early afternoon were spent exploring the MacBride Museum, whose extensive collections record area history.

Oooh, can our future cabin have a bear rug like this?

Looking good in a uniform!

First Nation designs are so beautiful!

We returned later that night for their celebration of 125 years of the Klondike Gold Rush where Larry did some more gold panning!  

The cake was delicious and a group called the Ruby Sisters entertained us for the evening.

On Friday, June 14, we left Whitehorse for Long Ago People’s Place near Champagne Landing for a living cultural demonstration.

A porcupine greeted us before the gate opened and Meta (pronounced Meeta) came to welcome us. 

 Meta is a Southern Tutchone First Nation who has returned with her partner Harold to create a space that preserves their heritage and passes the knowledge on to the next generation.  Meta commented that woodpeckers “wake the forest up for spring” because the young are very insistent and that the elders called her and Harold “the woodpeckers reawakening their community.”  To illustrate her point, this woodpecker family was nesting nearby and the chicks were definitely hard to ignore!

Meta’s respect for the elders was evident when she stopped everything to make them tea when they arrived. She then took us on a tour of the cabins and their contents, weaving stories into her demonstration of various tools.  

We have learned that First Nation stories belong to a clan, and if you are not of that clan you cannot borrow the story to tell. So, you’ll have to come listen to Meta to hear the stories of her clan!   

She cautioned me to watch my step as we moved about the tree roots and rocks in the woods because “feet sometimes forget the feel of the earth.”  That was an interesting thought and it has stuck with me to remember to pay attention to the feel of the earth as I walk.  She explained that in Winter the spruce trees store energy below the ground in their roots and for a brief moment in Spring this life energy rises to come out at the spruce tips.  She took the cap off a tiny new spruce tip and gave it to me to try.  It was as if Christmas exploded in my mouth, sweet and rich, full of anticipation and hope that season brings yet so appropriate for the promise of spring.  At the end of our wonderful tour, Meta made us tea and bread called bannock to enjoy.  

The drive from Long Ago People’s Place into Kluane (pronounced clue on knee) National Park was full of fun sights. If you’ve lost a hubcap on your journey this place in Champagne Landing can hit you up! Is it a hubcap forest or modern version of totems?

The Canyon Creek Bridge was built in 1903 for the gold rush. Famous Sam McGee and a partner ran a roadhouse nearby. The bridge was rebuilt for the Alaska Highway in 1942, and restored in 1987 and 2005.

And then, just spectacular!

Photos cannot do justice—with its grandeur and majesty if Kluane was in the lower 48 it would be one of our national parks (and mobbed with visitors). Seventeen of Canada’s twenty tallest mountains are found in the park, as well as lakes and trails inviting exploration. Since it is here, so far away and so little known, its wild beauty remains, well, wild. Shhhhh, don’t tell.  

We camped at Kathleen Lake which is such a beautiful spot that the beach is adorned with the signature red Parks Canada chairs.

The next morning we saw a grizzly ahead by the side of the road. The sound of our exhaust brake as we slowed down to take a picture caused the bear to stand up (on the left, just below the white sign) and see what we were before running off.

We then hiked to the Soldiers Summit, where the Alaskan Highway officially opened in 1942. It was a beautiful overlook, complete with red Parks Canada chairs. 

We stopped at a cute little lake to have lunch, which included anything vegetable, fruit, or meat that needed cooking because—we were going to cross the border into ALASKA!

  But first, we needed to pay our dues to get to Alaska because the drive on the last part of the Alaska Highway to the Canadian border was the worst. Road work created long stretches of gravel roads with one-way-only traffic.  Sections not under construction were plagued with frost heaves, potholes, and ruts. Even the workers got tortured!

Alaska at last!  We are here again!

The road only got a little better until Tok so it was late when we arrived.  No worries, we’ll be back to explore in the fall! Our boondocking spot for the night was by a peaceful little lake where only the mosquitos bothered us, although there was a water pump for the crews to use wetting down the dusty gravel roads.  

Sunday, June 16, was our last long driving day for awhile once we get to Fairbanks. From Tok, we drove to Delta Junction where the Alaska Highway ends.

Larry posed with the Alaska State Bird and we toured the Sullivan Roadhouse Museum.

This 120 year old log structure has survived being moved twice, abandoned for a long time, and used as part of a bombing range! Originally one of many roadhouses where travelers by stagecoach from Valdez to Fairbanks could pay to rest on their journey, it is the only to have survived—probably because it had a metal roof and a community who wouldn’t let it be destroyed.

Of course, no drive to Fairbanks from this route is complete without a stop at the North Pole!  In 2017 we spent a half day touring the North Pole and shopping for Christmas ornaments in the expansive gift shop.  This time we settled for photo opportunities and fond memories.  

The day ended in Fairbanks where we will stay for about ten days!

 

About the Alaska Flag (our favorite state flag!)

 

June 11, 2023

On Monday, June 8, we woke to a smoke-filled sky with light ash falling onto the camper and a red sun trying to burn through the haze. While we knew that the fires in Canada were close to us this was the first day that the weather had been affected. The smoke and ash lessened on our 280-mile drive to Fort Nelson that day, and our thoughts were with the firefighters that there might be some helpful rain.

In Fort Nelson, we toured the Fort Nelson Heritage Museum, where there were vehicles, radio equipment, cabins, and an impressive display of mounted animals. We spent more time than planned just because there was so much to see.  Marl Brown, who recently passed away, was a passionate collector whose varied interests and hard work made the museum possible.

On the drive west from Fort Nelson, we were surprised by a baby black bear just on the side of the road, followed in quick succession by several adults, plus a mother bear and a cub!  All of them were munching on the dandelions growing roadside which we later learned is one of their favorite foods. Local Alaskans sped on by so they must be used to seeing them!

After driving 350 miles for the day, we camped at the Tetsa River Lodge.  The Lodge is famous for their cinnamon rolls and we had been anticipating them all day! We split one along with delicious homemade rolls and soup.

The owner’s feisty 12-year-old dog awakened us later that night barking at a big black bear in the empty campsite between us and our neighbor.  Good dog!

Friday we got more cinnamon rolls and drove to Muncho Lake. The large lake was still with its surface like a mirror, but the persistent smoke kept us from seeing the beautiful blue color everyone raves about.

We stopped to take photos and promised ourselves to return sometime when we can fully appreciate the beauty of Muncho Lake and maybe even go kayaking.   At the nearby Mineral Lick trail we hiked down to see if any moose, caribou, or stone sheep were there as they often come to get the minerals they need from the hillsides.

Although we came up empty on the wildlife, we met a German couple whose truck camper had a great quote on the back – they were surprised I was able to translate it (Thank you Herr Braxton for 3 years of high school German and for those brain cells who are so happy to have been helpful).  “Wenn Nicht Jetzt, Wann Dann? “ is “If Not Now, Then When?”

Later, we saw this group maybe getting their minerals roadside? Still so smoky!

Our camping spot for the night was at Liard River Hot Springs, and just before the entrance, we saw a bear and then an enormous bison.

A tall electric fence surrounds the campground to keep out the bear, bison, and moose that occasionally do manage to find a way in! 

 Fortunately, we got there early enough in the afternoon to secure a campsite as the campground was full by late afternoon. The hot springs are outside the wire on a boardwalk past marsh and wetlands.

Liard Hot Springs is very hot at the source but cooled off enough to soak in the middle section where we enjoyed chatting with other travelers. 

Saturday was a big day with a fun destination – Watson Lake and the Sign Post Forest!  On our way, we first stopped at Smith River Falls

and then at Whirlpool Canyon (whirlpool to left)

The Yukon!

Bison are numerous along this section of the road and you have to watch for them.

You really have to watch for them!

We think the car ahead of us was feeding this bear? As we drove up it was standing on its hind legs at the drivers side window.

And thought we were good for a handout too? NOPE!

The Official Yukon sign

The Sign Post Forest in Watson Lake takes up at least a whole “city” block now, but we found a great spot to put our Free Range Fun Hogs sign I had ordered back in Washington. It has been quite the journey to get to this point planning, working, and traveling!

We went to the Northern Lights Center Planetarium to watch a show about  the aurora borealis or Northern Lights.  Later we drove to the nearby Watson Lake Forest Service Campground to reserve a campsite before it filled.  

On Sunday, 6/11, we drove in and out of the Yukon and British Columbia on the way to Whitehorse.  It was after we left Watson Lake that the surroundings felt unexpectedly different, in a good way. The land had the look and feel of untamed wild, with big vistas where mountains in the distance still had snow chutes, and the two-lane road cut to the horizon between a forest of spruce and lodge pole pines crowded to the edges of dark swift running rivers that likely saw no human traffic. It would have been no surprise for a trapper or prospector to emerge roadside from the wilderness. The youngster in me who read every book by Jack London breathed a sign of thanks to the older me.  

We then spent hours at the George Johnston Museum in Teslin.  

In addition to owning the first automobile in town, George was famous for his self-taught photography. The Chevrolet he drove on the frozen Yukon as his “road” is perfectly restored and on display.

The museum also told the story of the Alaskan Highway from the perspective of the First Nations it displaced, complete with George’s photos and artifacts of the way they lived before the road came through.

 Honestly, it was a little unsettling, like the Joni Mitchell song “They paved paradise and put up a parking lot.”  The Tlingit Heritage Center nearby offered some lovely artifacts to appreciate, and we were thankful to learn that the First Nation people are experiencing a resurgence of interest in celebrating their culture.  

The next stop a little further on was a display of several abandoned vehicles from the building of the Alaskan Highway, and we weren’t sure at that point how we felt about the Highway.  

As the day ended, we found a private and peaceful boondocking spot on a lake where we sat in our chairs and listened to the loons while we thought about it all. 

“I would rather be ashes than dust! I would rather that my spark should burn out in a brilliant blaze than it should be stifled by dry-rot. I would rather be a superb meteor, every atom of me in magnificent glow, than a sleepy and permanent planet. The function of man is to live, not to exist. I shall not waste my days trying to prolong them. I shall use my time.” – Jack London

Cache Creek to Dawson Creek

June 7, 2023

When we know we’ll be driving any distance, we plan stops to get out and stretch our legs every two hours. It is also an opportunity to make a cup of coffee or have a snack, and to be sure the cat gets to go into the camper where his food, water, and litter box are ready for his break. I usually look for a scenic spot like the Chasm Ecological Park Canyon overlook.

Along our drive, we spotted a brown grizzly high up on the bank above the road and the rumps of a few elk to add to our wildlife sightings list.

Our next destination was the 108 Mile Ranch Heritage Site, named for the roadhouse located at mile 108 on the Cariboo Wagon Road used extensively in the 1850s during the Cariboo Gold Rush. There were several buildings to explore and learn about prospectors, pioneers, farmers, and trappers. The beautiful lake nearby made us want to stop and linger on the gorgeous early summer day!

We made it 230 miles to Williams Lake on June 4, where we boondocked at the Chances Signal Point Casino after washing a quick load of laundry in town. It was a quiet and convenient place to spend the night, with more elk trotting through the parking lot than on our drive!

On Monday, June 5, we drove into Prince George and found their famous statue “Mr. PG.” He’s a cutie but not easy to get to for a photo.

We made a few shopping stops before sharing poutine for lunch at Nancy O’s downtown. The first time we had this Canadian dish was 2019 in the Maritimes, so it was fun to enjoy it again with fond memories.

The small but lovingly done Central BC Railroad and Forestry Museum was blocks away where we enjoyed looking at the old rail cars, a turntable, and saved railroad buildings from British Columbia history. My favorite was the neat old beehive burner because you could walk right in!

We kept driving and camped for the night at Crooked River Provincial Park, making a day’s worth of 200 miles.The mosquitos there were the fiercest we have experienced so far! Larry braved their onslaught and walked both campground loops looking for a host to pay for camping, but after that we stayed inside.
The next day, June 6, our rest stop was at Bijoux Falls on the way to Chetwynd.

Chetwynd has an annual chainsaw carving contest each summer that draws international competitors. Over 150 past champions have their sculptures placed all around town and roadside on “Carvers Row” for visitors to appreciate.

The rest of the drive into Dawson Creek from Chetwynd became rolling and agricultural as we went, which was not what we had expected. We were excited to be at Dawson Creek and Mile 0–the start of the Alaska Highway! Of course, we took the anticipated picture by the World Famous Alaska Highway Sign and even found the official marker in town.

We spent two nights at the Mile 0 Campground where we had a chance to catch up on daily life chores.

Of the campgrounds we’ve been in so far, this one appears to be the staging area for adventurers heading north to Alaska. Everyone seems friendly and full of anticipation for the trip ahead. Larry is already noticing campers on the road, at campgrounds, and stops along the way that are on the same path!
Wednesday, June 7, was our last day in Dawson Creek so we strolled through the Walter Wright Pioneer Village attached to our campground. The Village was a collection of buildings and equipment from before, during, and just after the construction of the Alaska Highway in 1942. Such a perfect cabin, but maybe we’d have to play Marco Polo to find each other in so much space!

I was impressed by this intricate lacework, too.

There was an entire home restored as a museum dedicated to the history of the Alaska Highway that was very detailed and interesting. It was an engineering and logistic feat to have accomplished the design and building in nine short months, with movies and documentaries to celebrate the achievement.

Rested and ready, Alaska Highway here we come!

“You can’t wait until life isn’t hard anymore before you decide to be happy.” – Miss Jane Marczewsky (Nightbirde)

 

June 6, 2023

Note to future self about independence

When I fell and broke my right elbow and left wrist four weeks ago, I abruptly lost my ability to do, well, anything with my arms and hands because there are so many muscles that start and end around the wrist and elbow that are collateral damage in the insult to a broken bone.  I had no hand strength either, which is taking awhile to return, so I keep giving Larry jars and water bottles to open for me—oh, and child-proof caps 😡 (even though I know how important they are for safety).

I think I’ve come to understand how the someone might feel when they have always been able to take care of themselves and find themselves dependent upon others for help with even simple chores.  I’d like to say I didn’t ever get frustrated or grumpy but that wouldn’t be true, and I apologize for anyone who finds themselves impatient in these circumstances.  It isn’t that I was unappreciative with Larry for how he was helping me, but that I couldn’t do it myself, my way.  

I took this screenshot in 2018 and it has been on my mind since my fall. According to the internet, the quote is from Thich Nhat Hanh, a Vietnamese Thien Buddhist Monk.

Funny how something happens to you that brings clarity and maybe a preview of the future – is this what aging is like from the viewpoint of an older person? When someone asks my age, that number isn’t real to me because I never thought of it as a limitation. I mean, who cares, I’m active and have so much left I want to do!

Not so, future self, when you eventually lose your independence remember what you want to spill out of your cup to those who help you. Please be grateful, patient and kind because they don’t understand your frustration and that’s not their fault. (Someone please remind me if need be in the future).

My son-in-law asked me if I now had the answer to “would you rather not have arms or not have legs.” I hadn’t thought about it until he asked, and I realized the question really is do you value mobility (having no arms) or independence (having no legs). There is a quote about there being no difference between those who don’t read and those who can’t read.  I think you can substitute any action for “read” and appreciate how we take an ability we have for granted.  Even with one arm in a cast and the other in a sling, I was still able to do some hikes, go up and down stairs (carefully) and go many of the places I wanted to see. So, yeah, as long has I have my phenomenal spouse to help, I want legs to explore the world!

Vancouver to Cache Creek

June 4, 2023

After the ferry crossing into Vancouver, we drove 54 miles north to camp for two nights at Porteau Cove Provincial Park on Howe sound. This was the one campground I’d hoped to be on the beach, but all those sites were booked within seconds of being available online 3 months ago. We still got a nice site across from the beach, and we walked the pier as well as the overlook at the south end of the park.

On May 31, we drove a few miles north where I had booked an underground mine tour at the Britannia Mine Museum. The tour was well done and our guide had us cover our ears to experience some of the noisy equipment used when copper was being mined here. That was the first time we had been on a mine tour with demonstrations!  There were many exhibits as well as a BOOM tour inside the old stamp mill.

Just when we thought we’d had enough fun we got to go gold panning! Larry might have come down with a little gold fever after panning for almost 2 hours.

The next day was the first of June, and we started at Shannon Falls to see the third highest fall in British Columbia.

We then made it to the Sea to Sky Gondola just as it opened. The gondola is a ten minute ride in cable cars with floor to ceiling windows.

On the ascent it looks like you’re going to hit a massive granite wall then you just go up and over it! Can you see the paraglider to the right of the closest cliff?

We walked some trails and the suspension bridge at the top before taking the return gondola and admiring the stunning views of Howe sound.

For a delicious snack we shared a custard, with nutella & brownies in cinnamon pastry cone from the Praguery.

Alice Lake Provincial Park was where we camped for the night and we enjoyed a trek around the lake. We were both impressed at how sturdy the little Canada gosling was already.

June 2 was a Friday and first thing in the morning I was able to score online day passes to hike Joffre Lakes the next day! Because Joffre lakes is so popular they try to limit the number of daily visitors. Afterwards, we drove to Brandywine Falls for a quick walk to the waterfall before heading north towards Whistler.

At the outskirts of Whistler we stopped to hike The Train Wreck site which is pretty cool and very popular. The train wreck was a cargo train where no one was injured, and the remaining rail cars are colorfully graffitied.

Bear sign.

It was still mid morning by the time we finished so we had no trouble getting a parking spot near Whistler Village. We posed in front of the Olympic Rings from the 2010 Winter Olympics.

Then we ate authentic Australian food at Peaked Pies. This is a savory pie in a flaky crust with mashed potatoes then mashed peas with brown gravy-actually very good and filling so we saved half for after our hike to Joffre lakes the next day.

Cal-Cheak recreation site campground is first come, first served, so we got there by early afternoon to get an available site and walk to their suspension bridge.

On Saturday we drove 45 minutes to get to the Joffre Lakes parking lot to start our hike before 7am. (An empty parking lot, one of our favorite morning surprises.)

The lakes were a solid uphill hike and the last part fairly rocky and root-y but I watched my feet and took my time.

Our favorite lake was the second lake but we had a snack at the third lake on a rocky scree.

The blue dot is us!

When we got back down to the first lake there were so many people, which we didn’t expect with the pass system. Always good to get an early start regardless! We ate our leftover peaked pies and drove south to our reservations at Nairn Falls Provincial Park.  After a rest, we hiked to Nairn Falls. This unique waterfall goes under a submerged rock bridge at its base so the water boils up further from the falls.

No water spigot so Larry had to use the hand pump and add water to the camper a gallon at a time. Just a little extra workout for the day!

Sunday was our last day on the Sea to Sky highway and it lived up to its name with the climb up the mountains. We were rewarded with sightings of a black bear in the road and then deer along the way to Cache Creek. What a beautiful drive!

 

I turn to this quote when I think something is too hard.

”Impossible is just a big word thrown around by small men who find it easier to live in the world they’ve been given than to explore the power they have to change it. Impossible is not a fact. It’s an opinion. Impossible is not a declaration. It’s a dare. Impossible is potential. Impossible is temporary.” -Muhammad Ali

May 30, 2023

On Friday, May 26, we left Tofino, drove east across the island on the scenic Pacific Rim highway again, around the southern tip of the island and back up the west coast to French Beach Park. Again, not my original plan but after one scenic drive we decided not to take another longer scenic drive back across the island. There really aren’t many roads that go across the island because of the mountainous terrain. Do we get extra points for circumnavigating the island perimeter?  

It was about a six hour drive but I did want to see Jordan River and Port Renfrew area which face the Juan De Fuca straits. After getting set up in our site we walked down the hill to the beach, which reminded me very much of San Juan Island beaches I visited as a child.  It is interesting how smells, sights, or sounds can be so strongly linked to our memories.

There is a steep hill behind the wooden fence at the back of our campsite, and a recurring theme of a large rock in the middle of the site. The placement of the rock seems random so I’m not sure if it’s there to protect the picnic table or some other structure, prevent driving off the RV area, or simply as a tripping hazard.

This is such a cute way to light up the outhouse! Just a string of battery operated LED lights stuck into the bottom of small red solo cups and strung up from opposite walls. Turn them on in the evening and off in the morning to save the batteries.

The host was quick to tell us that the campground had almost ripe salmon berries everywhere and recent bear visits, though none occurred during our visit.

The next day we drove up to Port Renfrew to hike the Botanical Beach loop trail.  Just before we arrived at the trailhead parking lot we saw our first bear of the trip! The large black bear was in full view on the road but reluctantly moved into the tall roadside brush. (That look clearly says “Really?”)

The ranger at the trailhead was not surprised and chuckled that they were as plentiful as robins in spring. In fact, there was one down on part of the beach hike and we should give it space to do what bears do on the beach. That particular black bear had moved along by the time we reached the beach so I cannot report on what exactly it is bears do on the beach. We did enjoy our hike there along the coastal forest with low tide beach exploration.

On Sunday we had breakfast at the very popular Shirley Delicious just around the corner from our campground. The hike to Sheringham Point lighthouse started a short drive away. Score–food and fun without much driving for Larry!

Monday was our last day on Vancouver Island and we used it to get ready to cross on the ferry from Duke Point terminal in Nanaimo to the Tsawwassen ferry terminal in Vancouver. Translation-drive back to Nanaimo, fuel up RAM, do laundry and other chores. Tuesday, May 30, we boarded the ferry and waved goodbye to Vancouver Island.

Some of the adventure so far has been unexpected, but we are so glad we began our trek to Alaska by exploring this part of beautiful British Columbia!

In Vancouver we made a short grocery stop and then had lunch at the Lansdowne Centre Mall in Richmond. A friendly patron made a menu suggestion that was delicious.

Eating out gives Larry a break from cooking, though he’s doing a great job! My right arm comes out of the sling tomorrow but I’m only supposed to do range of motion exercises for the next couple of weeks and not actually use it. I will say that climbing in and out of the cab-over bed of the truck camper without using arms has been a good core work out 😁

As we drove out of Vancouver up the Sea to Sky Highway we are excited to start this next section of our trip!

 

May 29 was Memorial Day in the United States. During the first World War, a Canadian military surgeon wrote the poem recognized worldwide as a tribute to those who gave their lives in defense of their country. This is why the American Legion chose the poppy pins to support the future of veterans, active-duty military personnel and their families with medical and financial needs.

In Flanders Fields

In Flanders fields the poppies blow
Between the crosses, row on row,
That mark our place; and in the sky
The larks, still bravely singing, fly
Scarce heard amid the guns below. 

We are the Dead. Short days ago
We lived, felt dawn, saw sunset glow,
Loved and were loved, and now we lie,
In Flanders fields. 

Take up our quarrel with the foe:
To you from failing hands we throw
The torch; be yours to hold it high.
If ye break faith with us who die
We shall not sleep, though poppies grow
In Flanders fields.

– John McCrae